[briggy]

The Victor Reinz part number is JV-8 and it's called "Bead N Seal".

I will note that I just finished the job Sunday night but I've not had a come-back related to the quality of either of the sealants I've listed. If anything had come back it was more of an over-torquing or gap in the sealant and not the sealer itself.

The Mopar Engine RTV is p/n 4883971 but I don't have a price on either.

The Caddy dealer wanted $20.00 for a tube of their stuff to which I kindly said no thank you. For the price it's worth it given the labor involved but I had known good sealer at home for free.

 

[Doug In NC]

Yeah, I saw that in your thread which was what lead me to believe the job was something I could tackle at home. You were a bit cleaner with your install of the RTV and even went around the bolt holes. I went with more RTV all the way around and didn't circle the bolt holes except for in the inner port near the water pump and what not. I guess I'll find out whether or not that was enough to to the job or if I'll be tearing in to it in a couple of weeks. If it comes back leaking I may park it in a bad part of town and see what happens(ssshhhhhh).

 

[CT ESSENCE]

Wow. And I thought I was going to contribute to the forum by doing a full blown write-up on "How to replace a windshield wiper".

Outstanding Thread..!!

 

[Doug In NC]

Thanks!

But remember... when you go to make your wiper how-to that the site only allows 15 pictures per post

 

[odthetruth]

A wiper how-to will require 3 at most. LOL

 

[Doug In NC]

Some might say I went overboard on the parts. I would say that there's no reason to fix one problem only to develop another from the repair process itself.

.......Item.......................Part Number .........Source .........Price
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Timing Chain Set ................76159 ............Autozone ......$219.99
-.....Dexcool .......................AF888 ............Autozone ......$15.99
-.....Oil Filter ......................CH8765 ..........Autozone.......$10.49
-Injector O-Rings ............... ES70599 ........Autozone........$2.99 x 3 (4 O-rings per box)


-Distilled Water ...................2 gallons .........Wal-Mart ......$2.00
-Engine Oil ..............................................Wal-Mart........$25-30


-Tensioner Gasket ...............12608750 .........Dealer .........$8.43
-Tensioner Gasket ...............12566429 .........Dealer .........$4.39
-Tensioner Gasket ...............12584040 .........Dealer .........$5.00
- ..PCV Orfice .....................12583384 .........Dealer .........$15.40
-Spark plug tube seals ..........12607600 ........Dealer......... $4.39 x 6
-Gasket .............................12589477 .........Dealer .........$16.63
-VVT solenoid seals ..............12593717 ........Dealer......... $4.39 x 4
-Seal .................................12622550......... Dealer.........$11.14

-AC Delco h2o Pump ..............252-889 ..........Rock Auto ....$85.79 (Comes with gasket)
-A/C Delco Spark Plugs ...........41-988........... Rock Auto ....$33.18 (for six, second revision for this model)
-Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gaskets ..VS50726R ........Rock Auto ....$27.79 (Without spark plug tube seals)
-Fel-Pro Intake Gasket Set........MS96969 .......Rock Auto ....$28.79 (includes Upper & Lower gaskets)
-Stant Thermostat & Housing assy. ..48818 .....Rock Auto.....$60.79
-Wix Engine Air Filter ..................46653 .........Rock Auto......$16.83
-FRAM Cabin Air Filter ...............CF10371 ........Rock Auto......$14.88

 

[Doug In NC]

One week later and maybe 150 miles the car came back for a check up. Coolant level still slightly over-filled (I was expecting an air pocket) and no signs of oil leaks. The lower radiator hose still had some signs of coolant leakage though. I suspect that the old clamp that was broken yet still in place may have cut in to the hose and even though I put on new worm gear clamps the leak is still going to be present. It was a very small drip which much like before, probably would have evaporated before it dripped on to the ground and I'd never even know about it unless I took another look.

The plans are to change the oil out again in a week or two and maybe put on a new lower hose at that time. I cleaned everything off again today and will check it again at the later date.

The owner works from home so he doesn't get to rack up the usual mileage we'd see on an average car. The butt dyno says it's a bit peppier and the fuel economy gauge shows maybe a 10% increase. I would think that with all new timing components, new plugs, and a new air filter the results are within my expectations.

The math on the parts list above shows about $500.00 but I want to say there's a few things missing so probably $600.00 in parts and you could do the job like I did. Not everything on the list was needed so you could easily get out for less than $500, it just all depends on the condition of the patient.
Doug

 

[Pwayne]

How do I get the pics? This is fantastic info.

 

[Doug In NC]

I'm not sure, they are still working for me and I haven't changed any of the locations for the pictures (hosted via photobucket). Perhaps it's a setting on your browser or user control panel for this forum???

 

[Pwayne]

maybe, I get the one just from 2/08/11, but none of the other ones.

 

[Doug In NC]

I'm not sure what to tell you about the images. I've viewed the thread logged in and not, both times I'm able to see them and no one else has mentioned any problems.

A follow up on the patient. Tonight I replaced the lower radiator hose, antifreeze and changed the oil for the final time. If you remember, the lower hose had the broken spring clamp and as it turns out the remains of it were able to cut a small hole in the hose. Also, it was leaking antifreeze from that hole and was a few drops short of a steady stream. The coolant reservoir was still over-filled (I was anticipating an air pocket to purge out) and the owner had only driven the car about 200 miles since the repairs.

Previously, we were putting in 10w30 full synthetic due to the timing chain noise. The oil change tonight we dropped the viscosity back to 5w30. I've been to a few classes in the last couple of months and they are really pushing hard for folks to pay attention not only to oil viscosity but also the "GL" numbering on the back of oil container. The instructors are also saying to make sure that you are using oil that is x,y,z certified and not the kind that "meets or exceeds" x,y,z standards. Only the oil that is certified is considered acceptable by the manufacturer of the car because "meets or exceeds" means the oil company used their own testing methods and CLAIM it is the same. The oil that is certified has basically been sent OUT to be examined and certified. May be a bit too much detail and yeah, I feel it's a bit of a sham but if you're buying a new car it's better to be safe than have your warranty voided.

The new hose was about $25.00 from NAPA but I don't have the paper work with me to give a part number. I may get around to posting more info later.
Doug

 

[EasternPA]

Wow Doug, what an amazing job! How much for labor if we bring the parts and helping hands? And where do we start scheduling weekends and send a down payment for a reservation!?!? Just create a shared Google Calendar and put the cost you would charge for each weekend from May to October. You would clean up!

Thank you! Great job!

 

[Doug In NC]

My labor rate at home is $50 an hour and it's about a 14 hour job per Alldata so that's about $700.00 labor but I could probably work a deal if someone's serious about it.

As far as the helping goes... I can't seem to paint a big enough square around my work area to keep people out of the way. My current favorite saying is "Automotive repair is not a spectator sport." and most of the time there's no room for a second body under the hood. That being said... I don't mind company, it just kind of slows down the process sometimes.

On an update note, the car went to Myrtle Beach, SC and back to the Raleigh, NC area last weekend after replacing the lower radiator hose and changing the oil for the final time. With a little bit of spirited driving here and there and mostly highway speeds (where the oil consumption showed up the most prior to repair) the oil was just a hair below the FULL dot which is exactly where it left at.

While under the car I checked for oil and coolant leaks and found none so while I'm a bit hesitant to say it but it looks like this one is fixed both on the coolant loss (lower hose), oil consumption (cause unknown) and the timing chain rattle (excessive mileage on oil change interval).

On the trip meter, the 400 mile trek lowered the oil life to 96%. Is my math right here in that 100 miles = 1% and 10,000 = 100%? Supposedly the monitor takes other things in to account than just mileage but seems to me that there's the timing chain failure cause right there.

 

[EasternPA]

Thank you for putting a stake in the ground! I may have to find a reason to work at the RTP office for a few days this summer and drive down on a Thursday night...

 

[Doug In NC]

My friend in Bethlehem wants me to work on her mpv. Maybe ya'll can find one or two more cars for me to work on and split the cost of a car carrier.

 

[LONESTARSTUNNERS]

Fantastic write up man!!! You truely will single handedly help many members on here if they choose to tackle this project. I am a tech and I still wouldnt want to do this even if I was getting paid! Again, great job and keep it up!

 

[ss4cts]

Doug,
Amazing post!
How would you grade overall noise from engine?
Can you compare to Japanese V6 engines?
Thanks!

 

[Doug In NC]

I would rate it about average when it's repaired. I mean it's not a sewing machine Honda but it's not a noisy lifter 4g63 (mitsubishi 4cyl) either. I'm still wishing I had that last tensioner for the primary timing chain in there because the mechanic in me can block out the radio, exhaust note and cars around me and still pick up on a very very faint chain noise. But I'm tuned in to it too so 99% of the rest of the world would never even hear it.

 

[rgl]

Truly an excellent thread, Doug. You have an amazing skill in that you can do the work, understand how it works and document your work. Having oil consumption issues with our '07 3.6 with 73k, which is rapidly getting worse as it approaches 1 quart per 1200 miles, I wonder if you could comment on why you think it was the failing chains that cause oil consumption?? I have been expecting problems at the Rings. I don't think I have the chain clatter

Now that there is a few months on the engine, can you report on the oil consumption since your work on the engine?

 

[Doug In NC]

Truly an excellent thread, Doug. You have an amazing skill in that you can do the work, understand how it works and document your work. Having oil consumption issues with our '07 3.6 with 73k, which is rapidly getting worse as it approaches 1 quart per 1200 miles, I wonder if you could comment on why you think it was the failing chains that cause oil consumption?? I have been expecting problems at the Rings. I don't think I have the chain clatter

Now that there is a few months on the engine, can you report on the oil consumption since your work on the engine?

Well, to be honest I can't really explain it. There were no fault codes nor performance issues. I did no fuel trim monitoring prior to nor after repairs and aside from the noise and the oil consumption I had no reason to dive in to the job for my friend.

Additionally, I changed out the PCV orfice at the same time as the timing chain repair so I can't differentiate between which part of the repair work really caused the reduction in oil consumption.

I have put in PCV valves/orfices on cars where oil consumption was an issue and that ALONE took care of the problem. In those situations, if the valve was gummed up then it could be stuck open causing full intake vacuum to be applied to the crank case all the time. If it's stuck closed then there wouldn't be sufficient breathing in the engine and oil caking or external leaking may occur.

It's my opinion that the noise was caused by a lack of lubrication as described in previous posts in this thread and others regarding oil change intervals. This lack of lubrication caused excessive wear on the primary timing chain guides (mostly, some on secondary) and thus gave the noise. However, I can't seem to justify in theory how intake or exhaust timing can contribute to oil consumption and still not throw a check engine light on a newer car like the CTS.

I'll try to get up with the owner over the next couple of days and follow up with mileage and oil level but like most other folks that have done the repairs... it seems to be fixed.

Cheers,
Doug