DO NOT use copper for brake lines. They're either a special CuNi, galvanized steel, or other tough alloy. NOT copper.

 

Yes, I use the alloy didn't think I'd have to make that distinction. When I state copper I mean the alloy made for and accepted by DOT for brake systems.
Still, need the thread sizes of the fittings!

 

Figure out the wrench size on the existing fitting, you said you know the line is 3/16". Take a wrench with you and get the fitting that is for 3/16" line and also has the correct wrench size. I suppose there may be more than one, but it's doubtful.
What I would do.

 

Yes that stuff is sweet - dont even need a bending tool in most cases,

 

By fitting size I am talking about the threads on the fittings. Metric fittings have several possibilities for each diameter. Wrench sizes are not a problem. I have both SAE and Metric wrenches.

 

Well since you are doing all the hard lines - what about ordering the rubber ones? they you will have the fitting in hand?

 

I thought about that, having the parts store bring one out and see which fitting is correct but I thought someone here would know.
My mistake.
I'll probably go with asking the store to bring out one of the hose assemblies. Don't need them, not buying any which is why I didn't want to go that way.

 

Go to the salvage yard remove a fitting and bring it with you to match the threads. You could always buy a bunch of different thread sizes and return what you dont use.

 

Thanks for all the comments on this.
Finally able to get to this. Wife recently had a knee replaced and she takes precedence.
This car uses two types of brake line connectors! The double flare is used for the ABS and at the calipers. They used the bubble for the splices under the car. I was able to reuse the connectors on the existing lines!
Interesting, two different styles of fittings!
I used steel for the front lines and will use it for the rear sections of the rear brake lines. I used cu-ni for the lines from the ABS to underneath the right side where they feed the rears. Tube bending for those two lines was beyond me so I went with the easier lines to bend.
Haven't found a diagram show how the lines are run from the ABS to each wheel, glad I made a sketch of the routing.
ABS was a challenge to get to, found a crow's foot with an extension from above worked pretty good.

 

The aftermath:
Yep, reused all of the old fittings even the three splices beneath the car.These three splices all used the bubble flare; all other flares were doubles.
I used steel for the easy front lines and for the rear lines beneath the car. I used the softer copper/nickel for the two lines that feed the rears from the ABS to their respective splice into the steel.
Seems that the splices don't like the mixture of steel and cu/ni as both of them weeped. I changed these two to new splices. The third undercar splice was ok. Still don't have as much pedal as I thought I'd have, not stiff.
Bled the lines before performing the ABS bleeding.

My advice to anyone who wants to change their brake lines on one of these cars is: plan for a lot of time with the car down.The bending and adjusting of the two lines through the engine well to the rear tires may take longer than anticipated.
That said, if you are able to comfortably work on the car there is no reason you can't do it.

 

Th ey make copper flare gaskets in a variety of sizes. Fixes alot of imperfect flares or old flares/unions.
Just used one on 07 Merc had corrosion at abs between steel fitting and aluminum abs unit.
Glad you got it fixed up.

 

I just had to learn from the ABS box it's M12 by 1.0 thread. Buy a flex roll and get those ends from wherever, AutoZone had all that. The front brake line head I believe a m10 by the same 1.0 thread. And all by 3/16 lines

 

M12x1.0. And m10

 

If my memory server me correctly...

Although the flare nuts are M12 x 1, and m10 x 1 the Flare nuts at the Master cylinder are different.
I not 100% sure but I think it is m13 x 1.25
I do not remember any flare nut being an Inverted flare nut, I believe they are all bubble.
There is however, under the passengers feet two unions. the unions use a Bubble to a inverted flare.

 

If my memory server me correctly...

Although the flare nuts are M12 x 1, and m10 x 1 the Flare nuts at the Master cylinder are different.
I not 100% sure but I think it is m13 x 1.25
I do not remember any flare nut being an Inverted flare nut, I believe they are all bubble.
There is however, under the passengers feet two unions. the unions use a Bubble to a inverted flare.

I did some checking ... it looks like the Master cyclinder flare nut is m13 x 1.5.

Do remember to use bubble flare nut on bubble flares and Inverted flare nuts on inverted flares.

 

If your car is suffering from rusty brake lines , I suggest you look at the Fuel,& Fuel return line.

 

Front Fuel Feed, Evaporative Emission, and Fuel Return Pipe 25835841 | TascaParts.com

 

Can anyone explain why to not use copper lines?

 

Copper will break to easily. It cannot handle vibration stress. Not only is copper a bad idea it is a violation of federal and state law. Every state.

 

i think they mean copper/Nickle alloy lines which have been used for years - a approved line and a game changer.....wont corrode can be bent by hand and hard to mess up the flairs,