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If I was getting new pistons , I would be looking for a comp ratio of about 9.5 to 1... Not sure but your stock ratio could have been over 10.. That was great with old leaded high test but with todays best high test pump gas , maybe 94 octane, those old motors could ping ...
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Since the engine work has stalled, I have to work on other odds and ends. In some cases, redoing things I have already finished.


This really burns my biscuits. When the engine was out, they could have done a simple scuff and paint with a rattle can of white. All it needed was simple masking. Instead, they did this... What a mess.

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The screw on the bottom terminal was painted firmly into place. I ended up having to snip the wire to free it from the car. Since the terminal block is porous, the black paint got IN to the material and is impossible to get out.

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The radiator is pretty beat up. I filled it with CLR and boiling water. I didn't see any seepage or leaks. Is my luck changing? I really hope so. I haven't been able to find anyone locally who rebuilds rads or heater cores anymore. I did find a place that allegedly makes brand new ones for $600, but they don't look like the originals.

I flushed it out until the water ran clear.

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This is why draining the coolant was such a mess. Upside down, bent tabs, and completely painted shut. I don't know why the previous owner didn't just pour concrete in the engine bay and be done with it.

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As I mentioned earlier, I started to redo parts I had already worked on. It was the voltage regulators turn this time.

How it looked when it arrived from California.
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Shortly after it arrived, I sandblasted it and shot it with some black paint. It looked okay for the environment it was going back in to.
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I stripped it all down and cleaned the chassis which had been sprayed black by whoever hacked up this engine bay.
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Re-shot with the same paint as the air cleaner. Looks MUCH better.
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You're really doing a nice job, the details make an older car look great.
Hopefully an engine turns up soon.
 
Wow, what a great post and fun ride with your project. And what a great job. As for the dealer you bought it from yes you do have a good case but your window is closing soon. You need to contact DMV in California they're really strict and have rules against what they did to you. If you do have emails etc you'll get some money. It's cover under the business and professions code, it's highly illegal and they could lose their dealers license. Then there's always California's small claims courts, I believe they go to 20k. You could take them to court for a good chunk of what you paid. Good luck and it will be fun to see the finished product here! Thanks again for sharing.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
I finally got an answer about that engine!


$1695 ($1260US) for a freshly machined 365 block, align honed, cam bearings, core plugs. $395 for the micropolished and balanced crank. He gets my block, crank, pistons, and anything I can't transfer over to the new block. It's cheaper than a rebuild kit from EGGE. I'll have to buy my own 30 over pistons and bearings.

I do all of the assembly myself.

I thought he was going to come back with $6k or something nuts like that.


I was down to the storage unit, and with the help of a friend, we got the car moved back to the back wall of the unit, giving me ~7 feet of room at the front of the car. Hopefully that will be enough to maneuver a cherry picker in there.


I am almost finished with the passenger side air box. I tidied up their sloppy looking repair. What I think I will do is waterproof the inside of the box so it doesn't rot out from the inside again when it gets moist in there.


Disclaimer: I am not a licensed paint and bodyman. I have no training at all. All I used was a $17 can of Bondo, a $10 tube of glazing putty, $6 plastic spreaders, a rubber 3M sanding block, and a $20 box of assorted wet/dry sand paper from Amazon. That being said, I believe it has come out rather well. If I guy like me with no experience can do it, so can you. Read the instructions, look at tutorials, think it through and take your time. You'll save money and learn a new skill!


Done with the bondo and shaping. Now its just glazing putty for pin holes and small imperfections.


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Forst coat of primer, sanded. Now its just fine tuning the surface by microns.
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Sanding out the deeper scratches.
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Primed. Wet sanding tomorrow, and if all goes well with that, it will be ready to shoot with Alpine White.
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Sharp eyed viewers will have noticed something missing. Those two big screws that were drilled into the box. They weren't holding anything, and they weren't original to the car so I got rid of them.
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Gone.
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Discussion starter · #51 ·
Thank you for the kind words. I am glad that this is bringing some enjoyment (and hopefully some inspiration) to others. 🙂


The passenger side air box is done. The Alpine white paint turned put great. The final coat is always the most stressful. Its all or nothing at that point. If you mess up during prep, there is more leeway to correct it. Once the colour coat is on, if it goes bad (too much humidity, fish eyes, or any other weird chemical reactions) its game over and you have to start all over again. Fortunately it didn't go bad.


The driver's side air box needs work as well, but it looks even more difficult to remove with the fender installed. The hinge, and the blower motor are in the way of the bolts that hold it to the firewall.


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It's so briiiiggghhht!!!
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It is a pretty close match to the exterior paint.
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I was stripping down the firewall some more. Lacquer thinner and a paint brush. The black paint, and the original white are gone. Now its the original red primer. The wiper motor has to come out. I have a fresh rebuilt one to put in its place.
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Still stripping the inner fenders
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Power steering pump is finally done with the arrival of the pulley decal.
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It appears that I am going to be moving sooner than I thought. My basement restoration shop, and backyard deck paint booth will be nothing but memories. I still don't know where I'll be moving to. I am hoping to keep the project going. My biggest fear is that I could end up taking a position with a company twenty hours drive away from my present location. If that's the case, the caddy stays here and won't be touched until I can get it moved to wherever I end up. I'm hoping to at least get the engine swapped in before I have to leave the area.


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You need to contact DMV in California they're really strict and have rules against what they did to you. If you do have emails etc you'll get some money. It's cover under the business and professions code, it's highly illegal and they could lose their dealers license. Then there's always California's small claims courts, I believe they go to 20k. You could take them to court for a good chunk of what you paid.
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Discussion starter · #53 ·
Still picking away at it.

After scraping the black paint off with razor blades and paint scrapers, I discovered the original white paint, while yellowed was pretty decent. It really annoyed me that they painted over it. It would have easily passed the grade for a 66 year old driver.

I sanded down the original white paint to correct the surface, and then shot it with some primer. Just a quick and dirty coat to highlight any flaws. Surprisingly there aren't any. So after a wetsand once over to knock down some of the dusty texture of the primer, it should be okay for colour.


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I did the same with the passenger side firewall. Just to see how the surface looks.
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Still stripping down the firewall with lacquer thinner. I prefer it over paint stripper (which useful paint stripper is hard to find these days thanks to the enviro fascists).

Years ago I used this stuff that sprayed on easy, formed a gel and then was super easy to scrape off. It stripped everything down to bare metal with one application. Then it disappeared from the shelves one day. The next time I bought paint stripper it was barely stronger than Head and Shoulders shampoo.

Now I use the lacquer thinner and a paint brush. I can control it better, and it strips everything clean, doesn't pit the surface, and requires very little sanding after.

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Driver's side air box removed. What a pain in the ass that was.

The people who had worked on the car previously used some sort of caulking adhesive on the air boxes, which took a lot of prying and chipping to get off.

Then the good folks at Cadillac saw fit to give me a dicking of their own by putting one of the bolts for the air box behind the blower motor duct, which is behind the hood hinge, and partially tucked under the fender. It took nearly an hour to get it off.

The air box itself has some rust through on the spot where the bottom of the brake booster bolts up to it. The box is sheet metal, but the part where the bolts go through has a thicker doubler plate behind it. The sheet metal rusted through, and the doubler shows some gnarly looking corrosion on the outside. I'm going to address it, but I'm not going for concourse results as the area is completely covered by the bracket for the booster. It will just be a functional repair.


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Discussion starter · #55 ·
A little more progress to report.


I removed the wiper motor so that I can continue with the work on the firewall.

I had to mask around the base plate for it, which I hate. I am more of a remove it, do the work, and then replace it kind of guy, but underneath it is a series of pulleys and cables that drive the wipers. I don't want to get involved with that at the moment, so it gets masked off.

The old motor worked, but I have a freshly restored one that is sparkling clean, and has the coordinator for the washer system.

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I primed the rest of the upper firewall. First coat only.
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I did some more stripping on the inner fender, and I got rid of that remote oil filter.
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I primed the drivers side air box. I wasn't going for concourse on this one as most of it is going to be covered by the brake booster bracket.
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Then I painted it.
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Had to see how the passenger side box would look.
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I restored the bracket that holds the wiring harness et al to the firewall. I didnt get any pictures of it. Look for those next time. However, while trying to remove the rubber grommet from the wiring harness, a large chunk of it snapped off. It was like a hockey puck. No give left in it at all. I was hoping to be able to reuse. Oh well, that's another $50 to Caddydaddy (or $67 + 8.71 to my US mailbox place) for those wondering about the plight of Canadians.

I also sourced a rebuilt heater valve. Another $200 ($271cdn).

Still looking for a place that will do heater cores and rads. No one seems to want to rebuild them anymore. Caddydaddy sells them but they have a "mandatory one billion dollar core charge" on them. Okay, a bit hyperbolic, but still. It would cost me something like $800 for a heater core, plus shipping my old one back to them out of my pocket to get a core charge back. Plus they might get dinged with an import charge, which they'll stick me with.

I have been procrastinating on pulling the engine. I just can't seem to find the energy to do it. I'd have to rent a truck to haul my cherry picker down to the storage unit, yank the engine, strip what I'm keeping, then take the old one to the machine shop, pick up the one he's selling me and then take that down to the unit. Its just such a PITA to do in one day, by myself.

I am rolling the dice on the transmission being good, and just leaving it in the car. I don't want to have to pull that as well. I only have seven feet from the front bumper to a four inch drop at the front of the unit. The smaller the package I have to maneuver the better. If I had a big shop, everything forward of the firewall would be off. In this situation, I'd love to get the rad support out so I don't have to lift up and over, but I can't see how to get it out without removing at least one fender... and if I'm going to do that, then I might as well take off both and strip it down to the frame.

I want to start "swimming back to shore" with this as soon as possible.


Oh, and I picked up the new variant of covid. Hooray. So glad I got those two jabs my employer made me get in order to keep my job, just before they dropped the policy for everyone, then closed our facility, and laid everyone off.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Doing a little searching for a radiator shop near you. What about Royal Radiator Shop Inc. in your neck of the woods?
I found a Royal Radiator somewhat nearby. I am not sure if it's the same company as the one you are referring to, but the reviews seem promising. I will give them a call. Thank you!



I was down at the car again today. The time had come to lay down some more paint!

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Did some of the firewall. The middle needs a final coat.

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Tried out the driver's side air box to test for colour matching. For some reason in the picture, the flange around the edge looks brighter than the box. Its just the lighting.

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I need to find the rubber grommets for the wiper cable. The one that is there (is smeared with vaseline for masking) is hard as a rock (which is why I didn't remove it). The one that goes around the cable was shredded by those who were there before me.

That terminal block looks really grungy next to the fresh paint.

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Tested out the passenger side airbox for colour matching. Looks good to me. When the sun hits the engine bay, it actually bothers my eyes now. Its so bright.
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Natural light. No direct sunlight.
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This picture gets my motor running. Why? It's not a particularly good photo. It's stirring for me because its actually starting to look like it should. The white paint is a thousand mile leap forward from the awful black slop they had before. It's moments like this that it feels like a restoration is taking place, rather than a never ending series of arduous tasks with no results. This is where you step back, survey your progress, smile and say "its coming together." When the picture you had in your mind, is becoming a reality.

It has taken a lot of stress, and gratuitous cussing to get to this point. It was in no way shape or form easy. Did I enjoy every second of the journey, and would I do it over again? Not on your nelly. This process is out of necessity, not pleasure.

Perhaps if I had kids, and we were working on it together father/son, father/daughter it would be an "I wouldn't trade it for the world" sort of thing. However, its just me, and the mischievous spirit that likes to move/hide things on me all the time, so its more or less... hell. But moments like this make it alright.

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Discussion starter · #58 ·
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More engine bay work. Its probably getting a bit dull for you all, but I did say I would document the process in detail... ...warts and all.

I fetched the engine stand down from the loft, and, had a gander at the cherry picker. When I bought it, I had a pickup truck. It was so long ago though, that I don't recall off hand how much assembly was required. After looking it over it appears that I can break it down in to bite some pieces that my old crown vic can handle. I was thinking I'd have to rent a truck to get it down there, and then scramble to get the engine out, transported to the machine shop, and then grab the fresh engine all in one day.

Anyways, the engine bay is almost done! Finally.

🤔 I wonder if I should do a slow playing montage of these before and after shots with Sarah McLachlan's "I will remember you" playing over top of it.

Where it began.
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The journey.
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The finish line. I am not pleased with the base of the wiper motor. I had to mask around it, which I hate, because in my book, the best way to make sure paint doesn't go where you don't want it to go is if what you don't want paint to get on isn't there at all. Unfortunately, I wasn't up to dealing with the cables and pulleys under the dash to remove that. Masking tape is crap. The edges always look weird, and there is always a bit of transfer unless you change it like a diaper between coats. So, once the engine is out, I am going to sit myself down in there with a dental pick and clean it up.

The problem I am finding with white is, although it is forgiving in some ways, meaning it hides flaws that black paint wouldn't, it highlights flaws that aren't there. Shadows always look like bare spots, and the way light hits different angles makes it look like primer showing through.

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Before.
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After...obviously.
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Oh hello voltage regulator.
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Fender bracket thingy. The paint on this crazed after I left for the night. I had to strip it down to bare metal, re prime, and then paint it again. Warts and all.
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Driver's side is done. This side was easier because the battery tray wasn't in the way. Ideally I'd take the rad support out, but that involves removing a fender, which I actually tried (for anyone thinking I'm a chicken ...bawk bawk). The problem I encountered with that was the bolts that held the bottom of the fender (near the door) had their associated nuts that are spot welded in place, snap off, so everything spun. After getting one out, and the other half way out, I decided NOPE! not doing this. It was a struggle to get them resituated in such a cramped space. I'm choosing my battles carefully. The PITA to reward ratio weighs heavy with every fastener I turn counter clockwise. "Does this really need to come off?" "Do I really need to do this?"

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In my usual fashion, I had to test out some parts. The washer bottle was put in to see how it would look.
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I painted the driver's side splash guard forward of the rad support. Without removing the rad support, bumper, or fender, it took some very creative, and acrobatic masking and painting.

I also painted the rad support, which, I hope won't bite me later as I have to lift an engine up and over it. The finishes on both rally shocked me. Keep in mind, one is dupliolor engine enamel, and the other is a custom mix Alpine white from an autoparts store.

Spray bombs, in a storage unit with no climate control, filtration, or proper lighting. Under those conditions, I think it's turned out rather well. In your face optimal conditions and professional equipment! Get it up ya!

The bottom half will be unbolted and painted black. Any overspray will be cleaned up, naturally.


Before.
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😍 The gloss and the glow...
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Once the engine is out, I will be painting the frame and cross memebers, and then doing the final details of the firewall and sheetmetal.


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Make sure you get all the bits off engine you might need before it goes away. People forget all the tim and this bit or that bolt costs them dearly i time and money.

Doing a great job, remember once all put together some sins will be obscured.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Make sure you get all the bits off engine you might need before it goes away. People forget all the tim and this bit or that bolt costs them dearly i time and money.

Doing a great job, remember once all put together some sins will be obscured.
Oh absolutely. This is why I am glad I can transport the cherry picker myself, because I can yank the engine out, mount it on the stand and pick it clean without the meter running. I hate rushing because stuff always gets missed. I will need the oil pump and cam for sure. The lifters are coming with me, and anything I can save from the timing set aside from the chain. Then, as you mentioned, any and every fastener I can get. I hate having to track down odds and ends like those.
 
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