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I want to add power open/close trunk!

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11K views 47 replies 9 participants last post by  jayoldschool  
#1 · (Edited)
I really miss the remote control power lift and close from my CTS wagon. The ELR trunk feels cheap and hollow. I know that "light" is good, however. The torsion bars and the low end hinges don't help. Even my wife's Volt hatch feels luxurious compared to the ELR. Of course, it is a lot more metal, along with two pieces of glass. I've sidetracked my own discussion...

I want to look into a power open/close for my ELR trunk. I'll start researching. I know that there are aftermarket actuators.

Ideally:
  • open and close with the factory fob
  • under bumper kick would be nice (since I don't have to actually use a key with the ELR, my CTS was keyed, so I did have the fob in my hand)
  • use factory GM parts from a different vehicle so it is a factory-ish appearing install
Who's in? Let's start the brainstorming. I'll jump down the youtube hole later tonight...

CT6 has it... time to look up some parts. Looking closely, those CT6 hinges look like the ELR hinges. Hopefully I can find something that works. We don't need the big heavy actuators that lift SUV tailgates! That "close" button is the exact same as the one on the gate of the CTS wagon, I used to use that all the time to close once I had loaded.


Edit #1:
Here's how to add the kick to pop the trunk. This will work to pop it, but I want it to open, too.


Edit #2:
Found the CT6 actuator. Now I just need to find a more common/less expensive application. What other GM comes with powered trunk?

Part Number: 84093500 #10 in pic

576760


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#5 ·
Coming from a first-generation Volt, I love the ELR trunk lid. It's so much easier to open than the heavy Volt hatchback was. I always worried what would happen if one of the lifters failed on that heavy hatchback. It's cool to dream about what might have been on the ELR (I'm right there with you imagining impractical retrofits like second generation Volt battery packs and higher power chargers in my ELR), but it doesn't seem like it's worth the effort or the extra space taken up in an already small trunk. Like KOSTONJOHN said, report back if you succeed…I'd sure be impressed!
 
#7 ·
From what I've seen in other installations w/ goose neck style hinges, there wouldn't be too much or any trunk space loss if you were to retrofit actuators in place of the springs. If you remove all the trunk lining, if it's like any other gooseneck style trunk, you'll see a springs that help push up the trunk and keep it up there.
 
#6 ·
I'll take a look at a CT6 next time I'm at the dealer and take pics. I don't think it would take up much space, the actuator would simply connect to the bottom of the package tray and one of the hinges.

I tend to mod all my cars, this one will be no different. Installing a trunk actuator should be no big deal.
 
#9 ·
Been doing lots of research. Found a video where a guy does an install on a Tesla. Short on install info, but enough to see that it is easy. Looking at the components, I think I have figured out where it comes from.


And, drum roll:


The only ones I see on that seller that are for a car with a trunk (and not an SUV gate) are the CT6 and the Passat. The CT6 pic shows two strut actuators, while the Passat shows a motor driven single actuator (like the actual factory install on the CT6). I've sent them a message with a pic of the ELR trunk and hinges and will report back.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Looking at the supplier's store, most of the units use the same control box. Seems simple, power harness, actuator harness, optional foot kick harness, and the can bus harness. Push the factory remote (or the button on the trunk, or the button on the door), and the factory latch releases. That signal is intercepted by the control box and tells the actuators to fire. Hopeully, the wiring for the CT6 is the same as the ELR. I'll figure out the diagrams and post screen shots.

For those that like reading instructions, here is the complete install for the Tesla. Should be pretty much the same for us (different wiring connection locations, colours, of course).


Let's compare trunks. First pic ELR. Second pic CT6. Pretty similar, hinges sure look the same.

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#12 ·
Looking at the supplier's store, most of the units use the same control box. Seems simple, power harness, actuator harness, optional foot kick harness, and the can bus harness. Push the factory remote (or the button on the trunk, or the button on the door), and the factory latch releases. That signal is intercepted by the control box and tells the actuators to fire. Hopeully, the wiring for the CT6 is the same as the ELR. I'll figure out the diagrams and post screen shots.

For those that like reading instructions, here is the complete install for the Tesla. Should be pretty much the same for us (different wiring connection locations, colours, of course).


Let's compare trunks. First pic ELR. Second pic CT6. Pretty similar, hinges sure look the same.
How's the research going, just took delivery on my 16 and it actually bugs me these cars don't have a power trunk!
 
#16 ·
While ordering hood struts yesterday so I can convert the ELR from the cheap prop (I'll keep you posted, and start a new thread), I thought of this project again.

They make kits for the ATS sedan now. I'm thinking it's time to order. I'm willing to bet that if it works on the 2014 ATS it will work on the ELR. I'll head over to the ATS section and see if anyone has installed one.

 
#26 ·
This could/should turn into a group buy on the ELR Forums...

I haven't found a whole lot of things to modify or add to my ELR yet...
To date I have had to due the replacement of the CUE screen, which at first played out on the forums as a daunting task, but turned out to be pretty straight forward once you figure out which screws on the CUE head unit need to be removed.

Not to high jack this thread, but I find the prop rod front hood incredibly
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cheap on a Cadillac, even for an entry level vehicle. Remember the Cadillac Cimarron?

I'm wondering if the Chevrolet Volt 2016-2019 Modify Gas Struts Front Hood Bonnet Lift Support Shock Damper kit would be similar enough to add to the hood of the Cadillac ELR.

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#28 · (Edited)
Your going to make everyone spend money... I LOVE IT!!!

One thing to look out for, I had added a similar kit to a Mercedes Benz B250 AWD (since it had a hood prop) that was plug and play. When releasing the hood latch from within the vehicle, the hood would prop open (due to the struts wanting to "stretch"). That was a good thing, especially in the winter if there is any weight on the front hood. But closing the hood required you to bring the hood down completely by hand and pressing it shut. This is due to the struts having too much "charge/pressure" in them (or perhaps the mounting points were not ideal).

That was the only sign that it wasn't MB engineered. Yes you could drop the hood from 24" or so, but it was tricky to know from what height to release it from so that it would close and it would not slam down with too much force.

So it was easier to just lower it down and press is closed. It's not a biggie, but it's something to look out for when installing and integrating which struts to get or how to install them to minimize effort in either direction.
 
#33 · (Edited)
You asked... here you go...

OEM brake pads (retail price: $516cad plus tax)
part number (left or right): 84732488
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OEM Discs (retail price: $365cad plus tax)
part number (left or right): 23447027

Oem Calipers (retail price: $432cad plus tax)
part number left: 23465191
part number right: 23465192
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The real shocker (ok, it's not cheap, I get it) for me are the OEM brake pads (I'm guessing that's a set, since I have never purchased other than a front, or a rear set, and I can safely assume it's not a right only brake pad).


Oh yeah, your going to need the caliper bracket as well (forgot about that) in order to use the Brembo calipers. Also, I cannot say if 1) the non performance package elr brake lines will screw onto the brembo calipers, 2) if the non performance package elr brake lines are long enough should they screw onto the brembo calipers.

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One last thing is the brake master cylinder. There is a small possibility (which I do not believe would be the case for a vehicle like the ELR) that you might need a larger (not sure if their is a difference between ELR Performance Package vs ELR Non performance package) brake master cylinder. I have driven a big brake upgrade kit on my JKU Wrangler where I upgraded the size of the discs and brake calipers using the factory master cylinder and I never experienced a loss of brake pressure throughout the pedal travel nor bottoming out.
 
#35 ·
#38 · (Edited)
If your calipers are working and in good functional order you do have another option.

Yes, you could replace the two front calipers which would require a) disassembly, b) replacement of copper brake line washer gasket, c) bleeding of the brake calipers (at this point, you might want to consider flushing the brake fluid).

or

You can purchase Brake Caliper Decals from various sources that have logos of various brake manufacturers or automotive manufacturer.

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