I have little trust in AZ pimple faces.... you need to disconnect the negative battery cable, charge the car overnight......disconnect the charger for a hour and measure the voltage with a decent multimeter..it MUST be around 12.5 volts or higher...no 12.2 is NOT good enough
todays cars are WAY more sensitive to slightly low voltage than the old car you drove in high school. also check your battery (especially the short red one) for clean bright connections, I would also do a voltage drop test ( google or tube this) its critical diag step

 

Tripwire I have a charger myself. I used it several times and it charges it up to about 12.6. AZ did a surface charge and it was reading 12.9 when i brought it home. The code reader noticed the surface charge and recommended turning the headlights on for 5 minutes to remove the surface charge prior to doing a battery analysis. I'll work on the voltage drop test, right now Im willing to try most anything.

 

wel thats good news voltage drop is a bit hard to do unless you have a lift, you have to crank with injectors disabled to get a reading....google it ..its easy but a PITA at same time... just replace shorty and see what happens - he is a known problem

as a side note loosen the 3 bolts in the fuse box several turns...give it a good wiggle and tighten snugly.....not superman snug but good snug, its a point of failure on these cars

 

Tripwire, The car wont crank. Burt I just checked the battery, and it reads 12.5 volts. Thats exactly where it was at after I performed today's diagnostic code read. I put the charger on it, and I can leave it on until I go to bed. It should be a full charge by then.

 

I went to AZ and asked for a better Code Reader, and It does work better. I took these readings with the new reader. Some of these are duplicates but I took the pics from different modes in the reader. Next step is to analyze what these codes really mean.
The Codes U0001 are CAN Communications errors. From what I research they mean the system is not communicating correctly most likely due to a faulty module or a wiring damage situation

 

 

Tripwire
These pictures are the last of the codes I just read.
I see that is the wiring diagram, thanks for that, but what is your message to me with this diagram.

 

Tripwire
I did check the grounds on the fuse box. Just like you said, and I ran a new #2 cable to the fuse box. I actually replaced the wiring to the grounds (grounded it at the engine block next to the starter motor with number 2 cable. I also replace the positive cable (number #2 cable) to the starter.

 

The fact the engine will not even turn over, basics first
When you open the driver's door, does the security light on the dash blink ?

If no, then VATs security is in theft protection mode so would not allow a start
IF no flashing and the fact you say ign key gets jammed, then a good chance the pellet of
key cannot match up with the VATS contact of ign switch, so switch now could be bad

IF the security light does flash, that also then says the BCM is seeing the signal on the car's on-board Starbus network
Network uses ground, and that could be an issue not just main ground but also in a ground splice pack
Have you tried to crank, but in neutral instead of park ?
For a start, does it require you to be on the brake pedal ?
In either case could be an issue with park/neutral switch or the safety switch on brake pedal

It is not just what the voltage reads at battery, due to wire size and distance there would be a voltage drop at the other end of the voltage wires, measure voltage at the starter, how is the starter relay ?

Most code readers are crap, they are made outside the USA and are more designed for that countries nameplates and DTCs they use there or are only designed to support the generic SAE/EPA DTCs and not the countless ones GM uses, so a crap reader may not be telling all the DTCs stored

Have you checked all fuses and checked they are getting 12 volts?
At the top of fuses there are 2 bare tits. Using voltage meter, see if both tits show voltage
as sometimes the problem is, underside of fuse panel is corroded connections
Check fuses for PCM, BCM, starter relay, VATs

Lastly the PCM will not allow an engine start if the MAP sensor signal is not seen as MAP is the inverse of vacuum, no MA engine will protect the engine, same as if oi pressure sensor is bad
If oil seen by MAP, also could now also be in the MAP and that oil kills the sensor.

so enough for now, but start with security light and if ign switch is bad, or a wire broke off switch
such as the 2 VATs wres.

 

Let me try to answer your questions.
I charged the battery last night and this morning, it reads 13.24 Volts on my multimeter. Yesterday, When I took the battery to AZ they did a load test on it, I watched it and it clearly indicated there was nothing wrong with the battery.
1) When you open the door the security light BLINKs
2) When I tried to start the car, foot on the brake, you could hear the starter Relay click but the starter motor did not make a sound. It did not turn over the engine. The key came out of the ignition normally today.
3) I repeated the attempt to start the car and same results but this time the key would not come out of the ignition. Used the tool to get it out.
4) I replaced the ignition switch about 2 weeks ago.
5) You can't get the car out of Park unless the engine is running, I tried it.
6) Don't know about the Park/ Neutral switch
7) I put a new starter and relay on it last summer. When I installed the starter last summer, it initially would not work at first. The manufacturer advised me to run a dedicated wire to the starter, so I actually ran a new #2 Positive cable to the starter, and I ran a dedicated #2 negative cable to the engine block right beside the starter. When I did that the car started and ran fine for several months.
8) I have repeatedly checked the fuses, but I can do it again. it's not that difficult.
9) I replaced the MAP because the connectors were broken from a previous repair. They were covered in oil. but that is all gone now, the MAP and connectors are all new. I replaced them last week along with the Cam sensors on the passenger side.
10) Something I had not mentioned earlier, when I turn the ignition on, the parking lights turn on, so I use the multi switch to turn them off but when I turn the parking lights off the rear taillights come on and they stay on until I reach in the car and turn them off. The car usually keeps the lights on after you get out, but that is only at night when you had the head lights on. Not sure if that is a symptom of something or not.
Let me know if I missed anything. I'll check the fuses now.

 

Forget the voltage test on the battery. Do a load test.

 

Since the new starter was a problem brand new, I suspect it or its solenoid, it might have a burnt spot on it.
Have you tried to hand turn the crank which would move off if a burnt spot or in gear try and rock the car back/forth

Have you measured what the voltage is at the solenoid with key on and then while trying to start ?
Do you have an amp meter that has a D/C clamp to put around the voltage wire for the starter and see what the
current draw is when cranking
If current draw really says all else is good and starter has not enough balls to turn crank

If easy to take starter off, then keep it wired and see if it spins easy when ign to start position

 

The new starter was not a problem. The wiring to the starter was degraded to the point where it couldn't carry 12 volts to the starter. I pulled the starter off and did a bench test on it and it spun over just fine. So that is why I ran the new cable.
If you are thinking the starter might already be engaged, I could put a wrench on the crankshaft and turn it manually.
Let mee have a look at the error codes again. I want to concentrate on what we know are errors.

 

Check the fuse cable between the batterie and the starter and générator.
it is a fuse 300A sealed inside the cable.

Try to start with forced relay starter. I already have problem with starter, it was the négative wire on the batterie.

 

Check the fuse cable between the batterie and the starter and générator.
it is a fuse 300A sealed inside the cable.

Well that is a problem. About 6 months ago I could not get the car started. I put a new starter in and it still would not start. I called the manufacturer and he advised me there are only a few reasons why the starter would not work . He said you either have a bad ground or a bad positive cable. I ran new dedicated cables (positive and negative) from the battery to the starter. Sure enough, the car started and it worked just fine for about two months. The old positive cable is still in place but it is not used for the starter. I thought when I installed the new dedicated positive cable I could just cut the old cable and not use it. Well that was a mistake, it turns out the old cable is still being used by the alternator, So I had to reconnect it for the alternator ONLY.
I'm not sure where the fuse cable you're referring to would be located. I'm thinking if the 300 amp fuse is blown it would not affect the starter, but it could affect the alternator.
Any ideas?

This is a pic of a 300amp GM fuse
I think this may be what you're referring too. They were used onteh 2nd generation SRX

 

I am trying to focus on the Error Codes I received on this last scan. This is very painful research.
1) The U1000: If one or more of the car's communication system modules malfunctions, the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) U1000 is triggered. Simple interpretation, one or more modules is not sending quality information. The solution is most likely in repair of an unknown problem.
2) C0001 TCS (Traction Control Channel) "A" Valve 1 (See page 309 -323 in Cadillac Repair Manual) Is referring to the "Antilock Brake System".

1. Torque Request Signal The scan tool displays 0 to 100%. The duty cycle of the requested torque signal. The duty cycle of the signal is used to transmit how much torque the EBCM is requesting the PCM to deliver. Normal values are between 10 and 90 percent duty cycle. The signal should be at 90 percent duty cycle when traction control is not active and at lower values (approximately 10 percent) when traction control is active.

3) C0242 C0243 See pages 378-379 Cadillac Manual is still under Anti-Lock Brake System but the error code is for "Service Stability" system
4) C0244 Pulse width Modulated Delivered Torque: See Page 382 Cadillac Repair Manual is still under Anti-Lock Brake System. The electronic brake control module (EBCM) and the engine control module (ECM) simultaneously control the traction control. The ECM reduces the amount of torque supplied to the drive wheels by retarding spark timing and selectively turning OFF fuel injectors. The EBCM actively applies the brakes to the front wheels in order to reduce torque.
So now that I have deciphered the codes, what are my action items?

 

So now that I have deciphered the codes, what are my action items?

The interesting thing that I saw was that these are all related to Traction Control and Antilock braking. I read somewhere that the car will run well without ever using traction control, it's not necessary. so why would a Traction Control error shut down the starting mechanism. The other errors are related to Stability Control and Anti-lock braking. I'm not sure if those errors would shut down the starting mechanism.

 

I know 2nd gen SRX have problems with the fuse panel connections, there are several plugs underneath that can make all kinds of havoc, loosen the bolts up up a bit , give the box a good wiggle and tighten down securely

trip

 

Will Do

 

The errors maybe useless as if there is a low voltage issue then the controllers do not work well (under 12.5 V)
and can trigger false DTCs
Also, the on-board VPW network relies on good ground to work correctly, else controllers can trip U comm codes
A hard crank would pull voltage level down and effect those controllers

Controllers further away from battery having longer wires will get a voltage drop over ones closer to battery

 

The errors maybe useless as if there is a low voltage issue then the controllers do not work well (under 12.5 V)
and can trigger false DTCs
Also, the on-board VPW network relies on good ground to work correctly, else controllers can trip U comm codes
A hard crank would pull voltage level down and effect those controllers

Controllers further away from battery having longer wires will get a voltage drop over ones closer to battery

Will investigate

 

is it possible that the theft deterrent system is not receiving proper signals. not sure which module controls that
the abs/traction control system should not cause a no start situation.
has the starter been tested.
blinking light will usually indicate a serious misfire.
camshaft position sensors can be disconnected and it should still crank but may not start

 

Im a little confused about what you guys are saying about the fuse box. You seem to be saying the fuse box is grounded to the body. Everything in the fuse box is hot. (12 Volts). There are three bolts that appear to hold the box in place but they seem to bolt into some sort of plastic beneath the box. Iv'e tested each bolt for continuity and there is none.

 

I was able to find a list of all the grounds.

And the locations of the Splice Packs

 

I was able to find a list of all the grounds.
But I am having trouble locating some of the Grounds.
1) The G307 Is said to be in the passenger compartment left of the driver's seat as shown in the picture below. Items # 4 and 5 are just not there. There is a harness running along the left side of the seat but there is no pigtail that comes out to make a ground contact. I did find items 2 and 6 and they were and easy fix. I haven't checked for item #3 yet.
BUT I talked to my son about this, and he came up with a way to prove we have grounds anywhere on the car. I taped an extension cord on my Innova Multimeter and connected one end to the battery ground terminal and I took the multimeter around the car and tested most bare metal points I could find, and the multimeter says we have continuity all over the car. That says the car has good grounds at every point.

 

Ceci est une photo d'un fusible GM de 300 ampères
Je pense que c'est peut-être ce à quoi tu fais allusion aussi. Ils ont été utilisés sur le SRX de 2e génération View attachment 630326
[/DEVIS]

No, it is a "fusible link".

 

Well I started tracking down the Ground Points on my car. I was surprised to find a couple of places where there was a bolt in the frame that actually had green corrosion, just like we used to see on open battery terminals. It wasnt much but it was there. I bought a can of spray battery corrosion cleaner and it easily removed it and it cleaned up very easily. -G102 G105. I could not find G100. Can anyone help.

 

 

Discussion Starter · #25 · Jan 16, 2023

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Im a little confused about what you guys are saying about the fuse box. You seem to be saying the fuse box is grounded to the body. Everything in the fuse box is hot. (12 Volts). There are three bolts that appear to hold the box in place but they seem to bolt into some sort of plastic beneath the box. Iv'e tested each bolt for continuity and there is none.

Well there are grounds for the relays and any other oddball plug in devices

 

I talked to my son about finding every ground point on the car to check for good grounding, and he came up with a way to prove we have grounds anywhere on the car. I taped an extension cord on my Innova Multimeter and connected one end to the battery ground terminal and I took the multimeter around the car and tested most bare metal points I could find, and the multimeter says we have continuity all over the car. That says the car has good grounds at every point. I even checked the ground on the ignition switch, and it has continuity.

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rust and corrosion at the connections will cause problems
you can use any point as a ground. the problem may be that the ground point for the device is corroded and is no longer making proper contact

 

I checked most things in the rear of the car, and everything is functional. The fuel pump works, and the rear lights works work. I am thinking the problem may be in the area of the dash. Tomorrow, I try to get the Glove box out and check the connectors (Splices) in that area.
Now that I think about it, I could test continuity between the negative terminal on the battery and the wires that connect to each module in the car. Test for 12 volts first to find the hot terminal on each module, then test the other posts for continuity. I think that should work. What do you guys think?

 

As to ground points
The controllers in most cases controls functions by ground and not the power side
Ground is also used within the on-board data network, so slight ground issues can cause hell to how electronics functions

I find people in doing maintenance fail to clean ground points and almost never maintain splice packs

There are several "ground splice packs" in vehicles

Several grounds are plugged together with male and female connectors and are inside the splice pack which has a metal top which bolts to frame

But it is inside the pack that can corrode, so from the outside looks fine
Whatever circuit or controller you think is having an issue as to ground, you need to determine if it goes into a ground splice pack and if so, than should pry the pack apart and see if all wiring lugs are clean

Example of what hides inside can surprise you (female pins side)

Male pins of pack

If so then clean up good or if too bad replace the pack