The previous owner was a smart man to sell the car @ 89,000km. I got only 6,000km on the car before it glided to a stop after accelerating away from a stop sign. Sigh. Kicking myself for not buying a RWD model. Oh well...
and... another AWD stripped input/output shaft
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BEWARE OF SCAMMERS. Anyone trying to get your money should be checked out BEFORE you send anything anywhere.
joatmon
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in a different recent thread, a member simply deleted his AWD system and converted to
RWD. I think the op's original statement was he wished he had bought a RWD in the first
place? What are your thoughts on this? Godd for you tackling this issue I hope you get
it back together. thanks, Douglas
RWD. I think the op's original statement was he wished he had bought a RWD in the first
place? What are your thoughts on this? Godd for you tackling this issue I hope you get
it back together. thanks, Douglas
That was probably me. I had a weird problem with my transfer case a while back (that sounded to me like a bearing having a bad day) and had been driving the car in RWD "mode" since.
Since everything had to come apart for the shaft replacement, I was able to determine that one of the bearings in my T-case is not 100%. I've replaced plenty of bearings over the years, but usually by then they are very noisy and rough feeling. This one has a small amount of play in it, and as you rotate it it feels OK but it's just a tiny bit off. If I didn't have 3 others to compare it against, it wouldn't be obvious that it was bad. I'm sure if I used something more scientific like a dial gauge, it would be more black / white for diagnosis.
I'm 99.9% sure you can't do any damage to your car by pulling the AWD fuse. The transfer case has an ingenious shaft driven oil pump, and it looks like the electric solenoid is used to direct oil flow to the clutch packs.
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69 Posts
I'm late to this party, but I had the same issue on my 08 AWD around the 85k mark. Contacted Cadillac customer support and they footed 75% of the bill as it was a known issue and I've been a repeat Cadillac customer. I filled out all things online at the Cadillac customer care website, I literally never spoke to a human at Cadillac Customer service and got a roughly $1500 credit from them. For all future people with this issue, don't hesitate to try and contact the manufacturer.
Well, I made one expensive mistake that I discovered after I got the car all back together. It would barely idle and was lean backfiring up the intake manifold...
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I must have broken the fuel pressure regulator solenoid connector against the firewall when the engine was tilted down. Scanner code P0090 showed up in the diagnostics, which decoded to an open circuit condition on the FPR. At least it was easy to find. I was envisioning a pinched wire in the wiring harness at the back of the engine.
The good news is that once the computer got the idle under control, the motor was in low power mode and I was able to drive (albeit slowly) down the road. The tranny still shifts through the gears! 2 steps forward and 1 step back I guess.
Since I just came back from watching Finding Dory, so I'll I can say is "Just keep wrenching, just keep wrenching..."
I must have broken the fuel pressure regulator solenoid connector against the firewall when the engine was tilted down. Scanner code P0090 showed up in the diagnostics, which decoded to an open circuit condition on the FPR. At least it was easy to find. I was envisioning a pinched wire in the wiring harness at the back of the engine.
The good news is that once the computer got the idle under control, the motor was in low power mode and I was able to drive (albeit slowly) down the road. The tranny still shifts through the gears! 2 steps forward and 1 step back I guess.
Since I just came back from watching Finding Dory, so I'll I can say is "Just keep wrenching, just keep wrenching..."
How much did the replacement solenoid cost?
You've saved a few thousand doing the work yourself so just think it was a small casualty of wrench war.
$350Cdn + tax (not dealer sourced)
The original part, like a lot of stuff on this car, was made in Germany. Probably part of the reason why so $$. I'm waiting for the replacement to arrive from Montreal, don't know yet where it was made.
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A brave solder from the wrench wars. Wounded, but still in active service.
View attachment 399417
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4,587 Posts
good work...I hope she's running like new.
Bill
Bill
"It took ~10-15 to dismantle the transmission and get the offending shaft out, but it took a LOT longer to get the transfer case apart. Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you the shafts of shame."
This may be a dumb question, but I assume you mean 10~15 minutes?
I bought a 2008 STS in late February, and now I have the same issue!
This may be a dumb question, but I assume you mean 10~15 minutes?
I bought a 2008 STS in late February, and now I have the same issue!
Yes, once you have the transmission out of the car and on your bench, about 15 mins to get the shaft out... but go a lot slower!!! I wish I had spent more time feeling how the sections felt in their home position. I spent several hours putting it all back together and being unsure if I had the clutches aligned right with the drums. The first one you remove is the hardest to put back. The pump housing don't seat properly if you got it wrong and you might be tempted to use the housing bolts to get it that last little bit home, but don't it!!!
Thanks for the advice, and the quick reply! Also, I wonder if mileage is not the big factor here. The car I bought had a 1-owner, clean Carfax from a reputable dealership. It had 32,8xx miles. I'm just over 35,xxx and then the failure. At least, I assume it is this failure. I need to get it in the air and try to confirm...
How did you diagnose the problem? Currently my car when turning the steering left or right at slower speeds I hear likes grinding noise coming from under the car, not very loud, just doesn't sound right. Like metal is rubbing against metal. My mechanic thinks one of my bearings is bad. On a crazy note, I see on my carfax report that the driveshaft was repaired by previous owner at the dealer, but could it be possible for it to go bad. I have an AWD 2009 CTS 3.6. Let me know some info i would highly appreciate it.
Hmm I wonder if I shouldn't consider pulling mine and checking for issues. is the shaft actually a bad design or is it an issue with the lubrication?
We have some shops in my area that could reproduce both ends of this and do it MUCH stronger. Would be costly though. I plan to look into this when I get a little further along so I can support lots of power but would be interesting to know what the issue actually is and if preventable without a redesign.
We have some shops in my area that could reproduce both ends of this and do it MUCH stronger. Would be costly though. I plan to look into this when I get a little further along so I can support lots of power but would be interesting to know what the issue actually is and if preventable without a redesign.
It is a poor design, the new ones they sell to replace it are fixed so that they won't rust etc. There's a TSB out there for it too if you want to look and learn more, it's # 10-07-30-005a ...I am going through fixing this now, it sucks haha!
Garden shears snap ring tool: brilliant
I just went thru this mess with my 2009 CTS4... And the sad thing is that it had been repaired previously at 82K with the updated output shaft as per the TSB. However, the tech who did the repair omitted installing the o-ring and did not apply any grease to the splines on the output shaft. So after 28K miles the splines failed again (ODO 110K).
This time it was repaired correctly. The facility who repaired it previously (prior to my ownership) did assist with the repair costs. Unfortunately it was 1 year outside of their normal warranty period. Additionally, the tech who previously repaired (or lack there of) was no longer employed there. So I'm out approx. $1500.00 in lieu of $3000.00
After bringing the the car home the following day the water pump let go... Dang this car!!! I replaced the water pump myself (easy peasy). I hope that's it for a while. I've now been driving it for the past 3 weeks and so far so good... I really like the car but not some of the recent problems I experienced.
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This time it was repaired correctly. The facility who repaired it previously (prior to my ownership) did assist with the repair costs. Unfortunately it was 1 year outside of their normal warranty period. Additionally, the tech who previously repaired (or lack there of) was no longer employed there. So I'm out approx. $1500.00 in lieu of $3000.00
After bringing the the car home the following day the water pump let go... Dang this car!!! I replaced the water pump myself (easy peasy). I hope that's it for a while. I've now been driving it for the past 3 weeks and so far so good... I really like the car but not some of the recent problems I experienced.
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