With about 1800 miles on the clock, I figured it was time to change my oil for the first time. Had 83% oil life left on the DIC, but wanted to get any break-in debris out. Since the dealer wants $74.60, I thought I would give it a shot. I’ve done all my own routine maintenance, the occasional water pump, etc, seems like a no-brainer. By the way, the dealer suggests letting the oill life getting down to 20 to 25% not the 0% in the owner's manual.
I bought a 5 quart jug + 1 quart of Mobil 1 and a Napa Gold 7090 filter for a total of $33.50. Other filters I found were Purolator L25274, AC Delco PF2129, and Fram CH8765.
The filter canister is removed with either a 24mm or 15/16” socket. I expected oil to pour down the side of the engine when I unscrewed it, but the canister was dry inside, not a drop spilled on the engine. The filter element stayed attached to the canister cover.
The drain plug is 13mm and is best accessed from behind the front passenger tire. I used a long extension and didn’t have to jack up the car or crawl under too far.
Wiped up the bolt and flange on the pan; tightened it using a short open end wrench (didn’t want to over tighten . I wiped the filter cover and reinstalled the filter - it appears that the new element is symmetrical, and either end snugly fits into the cover. Added 6 quarts of oil, ran around the block, let everything drain back and needed another ½ quart to hit the top of the full hash mark.
This is the simplest (and cleanest) oil change I have ever done. Plenty of room around the filter, no drips; oil pan drain doesn’t cascade over any portion of the frame or exhaust system. I used one paper towel and my hands were pretty clean. Total time 30 minutes including pictures, next time will be about half that.
Hope this helps some of the do-it-yourselfers out there.
I bought a 5 quart jug + 1 quart of Mobil 1 and a Napa Gold 7090 filter for a total of $33.50. Other filters I found were Purolator L25274, AC Delco PF2129, and Fram CH8765.
The filter canister is removed with either a 24mm or 15/16” socket. I expected oil to pour down the side of the engine when I unscrewed it, but the canister was dry inside, not a drop spilled on the engine. The filter element stayed attached to the canister cover.
The drain plug is 13mm and is best accessed from behind the front passenger tire. I used a long extension and didn’t have to jack up the car or crawl under too far.
Wiped up the bolt and flange on the pan; tightened it using a short open end wrench (didn’t want to over tighten . I wiped the filter cover and reinstalled the filter - it appears that the new element is symmetrical, and either end snugly fits into the cover. Added 6 quarts of oil, ran around the block, let everything drain back and needed another ½ quart to hit the top of the full hash mark.
This is the simplest (and cleanest) oil change I have ever done. Plenty of room around the filter, no drips; oil pan drain doesn’t cascade over any portion of the frame or exhaust system. I used one paper towel and my hands were pretty clean. Total time 30 minutes including pictures, next time will be about half that.
Hope this helps some of the do-it-yourselfers out there.
