Look at the RPMs when you come to a stop. That might tell you something.
Isn't there something that controls the idle speed or maybe you replaced that.
Others should have more info.

Turn off the Auto Stop/Start and see if that matters.

 

Look at the RPMs when you come to a stop. That might tell you something.
Isn't there something that controls the idle speed or maybe you replaced that.
Others should have more info.

Turn off the Auto Stop/Start and see if that matters.

Auuto start and stop are not a feature on this year. When at a stop rpms read approximately 7-800 rpms then hits rough idle down around 500 rpms and lower then stalls out. I was thinking something with the idle aswell but I'm baffled on how I'm still throwing codes for parts that I just replaced (yes I removed the code after doing so, it just came right back.)

 

This might be your problem.

 

He has the 2.0 engine.

 

 

What are the specific codes? It may be due to an ECM connector or ECM fault if those are voltage out of range faults. Having those three fault codes together indicates an underlying problem not specific to any single sensor.

Rodger

 

Having the same problem I was told by a dealership that my options were an engine rebuild or a new engine 50 thousand miles on the engine.

 

Say what?!! Something's not right. Either you have other problems with your engine or that dealer is trying to scam you.

 

I'll go with the scam on this one.

 

I would also vote scam on this one. If the engine starts, runs, and produces normal power then the odds of a serious mechanical failure or mechanical wear issue is extremely small. Get to a dealer or better yet an independent shop who wants to fix your car instead of one who wants to reenact the scene from the Family Vacation movie where the mechanic responds to the cost of repair question with "give me your wallet".

A replacement engine would fix the problem if it comes with all of the accessory items because it will replace the one or two supporting actors for your engine operation that actually failed along with replacing 1,000 or so additional parts that are just fine. A new car would also fix the problem and that is where you can easily end up when dealing with a service provider who is highly motivated to see how much profit can be extracted.

When dealing with out of warranty service, it is rare that going to the dealer is going to be the best choice. In the best case you will find a good dealer who will fix only the actual failure but will still charge you Cadillac dealer pricing. You are experiencing the more common case where the dealer will create a very large repair order for a simple item and charge you Cadillac dealer pricing to add to the fun. A really good deal for the dealership but not so good for the customer unless you have grown to hate your money and want it to go far away as rapidly as possible.

Rodger

 

Was this issue ever resolved? I'm having the exact same problems and I also have a 2013 ATS 2.0T

 

I have to chime in here though my situation is different. On a very rare occasion, my car will come close to stalling when I come to a stop with the clutch in thus no drag from a torque converter. If yours does it on a regular basis, maybe that software update mentioned above is the ticket. If not, it seems it would have to be either fuel or spark (assuming the throttle is sufficiently open) is causing it. I'd be curious as to the final answer on this.

 

I had a motorcycle once with similar symptoms. Chased it down for a while and it turned out that a small amount of water was getting into the fuel tank. Doubt that is happening in this case, though.

 

I’m aware that this is an old thread, but i was just checking to see if you ever found the issue for the stalling. I’m currently chasing my tail with an LTG 2.0T in a 2014 Malibu with an intermittent P0017 and the same exact issues in the original post. New timing chain set including VVT actuators and solenoids(3 exhaust cam solenoids to rule out defective parts) Current solenoid is a genuine gm 12662737 and it still stalls only after warm.

Exhaust cam, vacuum pump, cam position sensor, and timing cover were all replaced about 18 months ago after the original vacuum pump locked up, broke the cam, knocked the sensor out of the head, and punched a hole in the valve cover.

 

The converter lockup clutch may not be disengaging.

 

Thanks for the reply, but it’s not a converter issue. I can watch exhaust cam angle return to zero after a vvt event, but after it’s up to temperature, i can watch it return to zero after a vvt event, then it climbs to 30° and stalls without being commanded by the pcm. It looks and acts like a sticking solenoid, but 3 solenoids and new actuators have not fixed it.

i’m not familiar with this forum… just wondering if i should post in a different section, or a different forum for my particular issue. Thanks again.

 

If you did not replace the camshaft VVT sprocket, that would be next on the list. And while you are at it, verify the seals for the oil passages through the valvecover. If both are "leaky" with lower oil pressure it would change the timing, which would indicate either a leaky seal or a oil volume issue.

 

I replaced both VVT actuators and solenoids, chain, guides and tensioner, as well as another new vacuum pump because the drive on the pump was cracked in two. I’ve had the valve cover a second time to verify the reluctor, inspect the seals, verified that the new actuators were still locking, removed and inspected number one cam cap, cleaned all oil passages, etc… Nothing appears out of order.