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2008 DTS - clunk sound at low speed (or turning steering wheel at stand still)

35K views 21 replies 18 participants last post by  Omac  
#1 ·
I have a 2008 DTS with 72k miles. Recently I started hearing a light clunk noice coming from the from end when turning the wheels. It seems to be be worse when backing up. I do not feel anything in the steering wheel while at standing or driving but can sure hear something when turning the wheel. My 2000 Deville did the same thing and no one could ever find the problem so I don't know if this is something specific to cadillacs or if there's a problem. Anyone have any suggestion or comments... trying to avoid going to the dealer cause Im tight on funds right now.

Anyone else having this issue?
 
#4 ·
I just chased down the same issue on my car (07' performance edition). Things to check are sway bar end links, sway bar frame bushings, strut bearing or the strut itself. Hopefully you don't have the MRC suspension like I do because if it turns out to be the strut like it was on mine be prepared to drop some $$.

Good luck-
383 LT1 SS
 
#6 · (Edited)
OMG Cadillac Customer service wants to know what happens!!!! OK I will tell you , if the vehicle is under Warranty the dealer fixes it, if not the customer pays. One thing is for sure, all DTS 2006 -2011 Strut bearings will fail prematurely. Just check your internal GM 2 year ICW numbers and verbatim's for the DTS Matt, see any kind of a spike related to Strut bearings? Can you help any of the customers who paid for the defect get reimbursed for this design flaw?
 
#11 ·
Jpoborsky, sorry for my delayed input. This “light clunk noise coming from the front end when turning the wheels” is due to breakdown/failure of the strut bearings. You can verify it by jacking up the front ends and then turning the wheels from side-to-side. You can hear the thumping noise as you slowly turn the wheels. I have seen it before when I was living up north in the snow/salt country. This type of damage/failure of the strut bearings is due to exposure to the snow/salt/sand/grit. In my opinion, it has nothing to do with the design of the DTS. You just have to replace the strut bearings with the strut-mate strut mounting kits. For DIY’ers, you can get the kit for ~$50.00/each from Amazon. The strut-mate strut mounting kits can be installed by your local mechanic.
 
#14 ·
My 2007 DTS was clearly making a clunk from the rear when I would turn at low speeds. I also noticed that my left front tire was wearing unevenly. My local mechanic put it on the lift and immediately saw the front and rear sway bar links/bushings were bad w/ too much play. Also found a bad tie rod on left front side. Replaced these items and I can't believe how much better the car handles. Mechanic said my links/bushings rusted badly. My car's original owner was in NY/NJ area so the winters there would promote premature rusting. Only 70k mi on my DTS, so these sway bar problems can creep up on you before the 100k mark.
 
#19 ·
Did you fix the issue? Its obviously a Front End worn component. These are heavy V8 cars and they wear out at around 80k miles like old 1970 cars use too. You need to consider and most likely front strut mounts (Buy OEM). I would inspect Inner (Moog good replacement) or outer (OEM good replacement) tie rods, Sway Bar bushing and links (Buy OEM), while your in there Timken Wheel bearings may tighten things up too. Many of the latter parts may even check OK but you may be surprised if you do all this how the car responds. Your car is probably loose and it may ride fine after you fix the clunk and you may be much more happy with it if you tighten the entire system up. A good flush on the power steering may be a good ideal too. I did all the above with the addition of OEM front struts and springs and the car is perfect!
 
#20 ·
Fixed the clunk yes.

I will need new struts soon but they seem to be fine. The power steering fluid every 6-12 months I pump out with a hand bottle sprayer, I know it's a slow process takes about 10 minutes to pump out about the amount of 1/2 a bottle of water, the reservoir is pretty low at that point and I do not want to go any lower, to some how allow air to get into the system. I also do this with the brake master cylinder. I think it works great and costs $12-$14 a year and my time.