[camcbride1987]

Sorry I corrected it. I'll take pics of wire spliced at B1 passenger side not B2 exhaust sensor and below at PCM
Could be my P0017 code

 

[camcbride1987]

Ok I'm taking a step back here.
You stated in post #200 that B1S1 has good Lambda and millivolts.
My problem is B2 is too lean.
So forget anything else at the moment.
I will remove the valve cover on B2 and like you said place rags around the head and run engine.
See if all is working the same on each piston valve?
I guess I can just plug the vacumm hose for that head.
As far as the valves.
Will I be able to notice if a valve actually isn't closing all the way?
I know to be more alert on exhaust.

 

[Team ZR-1]

I do not know your valve train but look first at valve springs and see if any broken or height is shorter than others
See when at idle if all on bank 2 if rockers moving up and down the same heights

Or after doing a compression test and then do a leak down test would say if any of the valves are not fully closing
You have a dual pressure gauges to do both compression and leak down tests ?
If any valve is not fully closing, you would see that is loss of PSI when holding leak down pressure

 

[camcbride1987]

Yes I have both gauges. I usually put little oil in cylinder and test.If I have a low psi cyl. If there is no change in PSI? It's usually the valve.
First thing is a dry test to see if any cylinder is more than 10% in change.
I think they all should be close to 150 to 160 psi ?
Also I turned ignition on no start and back probed each cam sensor on the pigtail.
All 4 have battery Vs and good grounds.
The signal volts on three of them are .44vs
Except the one with the crimped wire they bypassed the original Grn wire in the harness from pcm and put a new pigtail plug for the B1 exhaust cam sensor. It shows .52vs so my point is I wouldn't think that's the problem?
But why are other 3 only showing .44vs
Also .5 vs is that norm? A 1/2 a volt.
I thought signal should be 5Vs not .5Vs? That's on a 20V setting

 

[camcbride1987]

I'm going to try back probing again with engine running..

 

[camcbride1987]

Ok I back probed with eng running
Both the signal reference 5v and 12v supply wire had battery voltage 12.8 Vs. Ground was good.

 

[camcbride1987]

Scratch that last post.
I back probed just signal wire D-grn on exhaust cam sensor B1
It fluctuating between 4.5 and 7.vs
I checked the other three cam sensors and they were a little less.fluctuating Between 4.5 and 6vs.
Shouldn't it be pretty steady?

 

[Team ZR-1]

If this is your engine, ?
If so, you never mentioned CAM controls all by the ECM
No wonder they were chopping wires up

You need to print all this out to debug, but questions is for you ?
Possible it is the PCM that is faulty ?

Where are the intake and exhaust actuators located ?

and No wonder the fuel trims are so screwed up

CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR

The camshaft position (CMP) sensor is triggered by a notched reluctor wheel built onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket. The CMP sensor provides four signal pulses every camshaft revolution. Each notch, or feature, of the reluctor wheel, is of a different size which is used to identify the compression stroke of each cylinder and to enable sequential fuel injection. The CMP sensor is connected to the engine control module (ECM) by the following circuits:
- A 5-Volt reference circuit
- A low reference circuit
- A signal circuit

There are FOUR CAM sensors and FOUR actuators

1. Notice: DO NOT remove the camshaft position actuator magnet unless it needs to be replaced. The camshaft position actuator magnet is precisely aligned to the camshaft position actuator oil control valve on the end of the camshaft during engine assembly.
If the camshaft position actuator magnet is removed and/or needs to be replaced, it will be necessary to realign the camshaft position actuator magnet to the camshaft position actuator oil control valve after the camshaft position actuator housing is installed to the cylinder head.
Failure to realign the camshaft position actuator magnet to the camshaft position actuator oil control valve can lead to poor engine performance and engine component damage.

Remove the left camshaft position actuator housing bolts.
2. Remove the left camshaft position actuator housing.

.

.

 

[camcbride1987]

Yes I did replace both intake and exhaust oil control valves.
I removed actuators and took off plate on front of head. Both intake and exhaust oil control valves where snapped at the point where they go into the magnetic actuators..
When I was done replacing the valves I replaced the plates and replaced the actuators alining them with a coat of silicone to seal them.
I then put the screws 3 in the actuators loosely so I could move the actuators to aline them.pluged them in and used a jumper wire from positive post in fuse box to check for alignment. Once I heard the actuator click as it pulled in the oil control valve piston. I tightened the screws. Then checked again to make sure it was working.
Did this on both actuators.
I also checked the actuators on b2 drivers side. All work.

 

[camcbride1987]

Yes it's my own vehicle

 

[camcbride1987]

This is the wire from PCM they bypassed.

 

[Team ZR-1]

That is the output of that sensor for B1 exhaust
Bypassed to what ?
Being it is output to the PCM how could they bypass it as PCM now cannot control exhaust ?
Now knowing about 4 CAM sensors and 4 actuators changes everything and suspect the problem is with them, their wiring or the PCM itself

Now you need to see if your scanner supports at least 16 PIDs I see GM has for CAM controls such as I see with another OBD2 scanner

What about the other 3 CAM sensors ?

 

[Team ZR-1]

I color coded this to make it easier to debug the 4 CAM sensors and 4 actuators
Shows what pin numbers on PCM for each

4 actuators go directly to chassis ground where CAM sensors are reference to ground
via PCM control

Concern is GM notes :

1. Notice: DO NOT remove the camshaft position actuator magnet unless it needs to be replaced.
The camshaft position actuator magnet is precisely aligned to the camshaft position actuator oil control valve on the end of the camshaft during engine assembly.
If the camshaft position actuator magnet is removed and/or needs to be replaced, it will be necessary to realign the camshaft position actuator magnet to the camshaft position actuator oil control valve after the camshaft position actuator housing is installed to the cylinder head.
Failure to realign the camshaft position actuator magnet to the camshaft position actuator oil control valve can lead to poor engine performance and engine component damage.

 

[camcbride1987]

Bypassed means they cut the wire about an inch from cam sensor and an inch down at PCM connector and replaced wire. Re routed it up to cam sensor and spliced it into a new pigtail connector on cam sensor
There must have been a break somewhere on that wire.
It is connected and like I said with ignition on it has signal

 

[camcbride1987]

The other cam sensors have not been touched by anyone and wiring is attached. All sensors with ignition on have the fluctuating signal I stated in post #227

 

[Team ZR-1]

If they found wiring bad and ran 1 new one, maybe also other wires also damaged
Crimps are not good when output is low signals
We have no idea what the output signal is and at what level signal is a maybe needing a scope to see output
or the scanner PIDs showing output is

Also, you do not know if the sensors or actuators were replaced and caused as what GM warned about
I suggest first order would be to ring out the 4 actuators and if your scanner supports the PIDs I showed would help

I am done for the night, going on 11 PM

 

[camcbride1987]

Ok will do
Thanks. I'll check PID's and I'll ohm each wire to the pins on PCM to see if any damaged wires in the harness.

 

[camcbride1987]

Ok I'm going to focused on the actuators and cam sensor wiring this morning. Ohm all wires disconnecting the three connectors on the PCM and finding the corresponding circuit to each cam and actuator. Making sure there are no breaks anywhere.
Then with ignition on I'll check all Vs to each cam sensors and actuator.
If all is good. I'll move on to something else.
I'll check Parameter id's and see what's up?
I'm learning more and more how to use my Launch creader elite V2.0
It has lots of features it just getting to them.
Specific to the cams sensors and actuators

 

[camcbride1987]

Ok checked actuators:
All actuators have a good ground to chassis. No volts until eng running.
All cam sensors have a good ground and battery volts on 12 V reference.
With engine running.
All actuators have 5.3 VS
Cam sensors still fluctuating between 4 and 7 Vs.
I took some pics of my other scanner Cheaper model.
I'll pay them separately

 

[camcbride1987]

At idle