[camcbride1987]

At 2000 rpm

 

[camcbride1987]

Fluctuating between 0.8 and 20

 

[camcbride1987]

 

[camcbride1987]

It's weird how two different scan tools report a difference.
Next test I'm going to take all cam sensors out leave them connected to wire harness
Turn ignition on no start and put a metal wrench up to them and they should go to 0.00 Vs when I take wrench away the sensor should go back to signal V's

 

[Team ZR-1]

You need to see if those CAM PIDs I showed work with your scanners

Again, we do not know what values they should be reporting and which values are in the correct operating window range so cannot get those values with a multi meter without knowing what the sensor designs are to output

My scanner shows at least the CAM exhaust & Angle PIDs reports in degrees

 

[camcbride1987]

Ok I'll see if I can figure out how to get PID's
As far as the cams signal Vs the vale should be 5.0 Vs correct coming from PCM
And actuators voltage @5.0Vs
They are all within that range.
I'm still going to do a dry compression test today if I have time. At least I'll know if head gasket rings and valves are good.

 

[camcbride1987]

One other thought.
Looks like there is no rattle PVC on these engines..
From what it looks like the 2 hoses from intake go into the ridge on top of valve cover?
So no traditional PVC valve.
Could one of those be plugged
Or not as it should?
I don't know the way GM designed those out? I assume they just vent into the head through the valve cover?

 

[Finster101]

You are absolutely sure there are no vacuum leaks or injector issues? The only time I normally would have to replace 02s on those were for heater issues.

 

[camcbride1987]

I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere on top of engine. Idle stayed the same. Injectors are new.i checked with my automotive stethoscope and all are ticking.
I'm smelling a raw fuel inside car? With driver door open it's not so bad.
Also weird thing is I don't get a P0300 multi miss fire or a P0017 code anymore after recycling engine several times. I did get a P0365,P0391 referring to B1 and b2 exhaust cam sensors
And I got a fuel injector cylinder 1 code. I erased codes twice
Still got the 2 cam sensor codes. Maybe it's because I had them disconnected doing testing.
My launch was dead so I'm charging it. I used my old tester.
I know why I can't do a crk learn procedure?
There are 5 other codes due to passenger seat. I'll send picture. It won't erase. I think it's due to seatbelts module.
I'm begging to think this PCM is crap!
I found a refurbished one with 5 year warranty for 185.00
You send your vin and they program it to your car so it's plug and play.
Why I'm smelling such raw fuel I don't know?

 

[camcbride1987]

I'll do the compression test and PID's in the morning. I can also check the spark plugs again after I warm up car for compression check when I remove them all.

 

[camcbride1987]

 

[camcbride1987]

You are absolutely sure there are no vacuum leaks or injector issues? The only time I normally would have to replace 02s on those were for heater issues.

Finstr101 you got me thinking so I did a fuel pressure test.
When started car with fuel pressure gauge hooked up
While engine is running.
It's at 60 psi. Shouldn't it be at 45 to 50 at most?
When I turn off engine it's right at 50 psi and drops 1 psi after 4 min.
And after 10 min sitting it's at 48.5 psi.
It's dropping very very slowly.
I'm sure that's normal? Or should stay at the 50 psi for duration of pressure gauge hooked up? Would that be a FPR prob?

 

[Team ZR-1]

Fuel Pressure: Specifications

Fuel Pressure (Key ON, Engine OFF) 380-410 kPa (55-60 psi)

 

[camcbride1987]

That's what I read but these cars must be cranking to get a reading.
And I read at idle it should be 45 to 50 psi
So 60 seems a little high?
Could it be a FPR problem? Or nothing to be concerned with,?
I read to high psi could cause a rich condition?

 

[camcbride1987]

Could that be the source of smelling raw fuel in car?

 

[camcbride1987]

Being it's leak down I only approx
5psi in 10 minutes is way with in limits so? Correct me if I'm wrong? I doubt any fuel inj leaking
With all the weird codes coming and going? I'm starting to lean towards faulty PCM

 

[Team ZR-1]

You keep drifting off what tasks you should be doing and why bank 2 is 100% leaner than Bank 1

58 PSI at fuel rail has been a GM standard for many years, at least back to late 1990s

Fuel pump is electric so all it needs is key on, engine off to be at 58 PSI

 

[camcbride1987]

On this Cadillac when I push down on rocher switch on dash it says P on dash but the fuel pump doesn't engage till I put foot on brake pedal and start car.. this doesn't just have a key you turn on collum to engage the fuel pump.
I know I'm going different places with this but trying to eliminate all possibilities. If 60 psi is good while running? And dropping psi at leak down to 5psi in about 10 min? Then I'm good with that.
I'm going to check compression next. That will give me a lot of info.
If all is good psi above 170 psi with little variation. Then engine is good in that aspect.
I should have started with that in the begining.
BTW I think this car has a custom exhaust after the cats cause I thought there was an exhaust leak but can't find one
I'll do the PIDs now as I warm up car to normal temp to do compression test

 

[Team ZR-1]

Should be like all push button types in holding down like bottom edge of start button until it goes into ACC mode would be same as key on, engine off
Read owner's manual if needed for that

 

[camcbride1987]

This car has more of a rocker type switch. When I have key fob with me if I just push down on switch? The P is indicated in dash but no dash indicators are present. I can use radio. Now when I step on brake and push up on switch the car starts and gauges come on while engine is started.Then fuel pump works
I'll send a couple pics of what it does.