that's an interesting wiring diagram, I'm not an audio specialist and I've only wired up AMPs on my own cars. Never seen line-out converter used like that. I try to stay away from Line-out converters and get the pre-amp signal from the stereo and the remote signal from the car wiring, ACC or Sig-lighter. Sorry couldn't be of more help

 

I left the factory sub hooked up and turned the bass all the way off on the factory head unit my amp has low pass crossover and it works great. I have the exact same set up in my 04 cts but I'm using all alpine equipment!

 

Took your advice and reconnected the factory sub; it seems to be working properly now but I'm still concerned as my factory sub is partially blown and would like to disconnect it. Thanks for the idea though! Now if I can only get it to work without the factory sub connected. :/

 

I recently added 2 12's in a ported box to my 03. Here is how I set it up and I have had no problems.

I tapped the positive and negative wires going to the factory sub and ran them to a LOC that has an amp built in (Scosche brand and max 50 watts). Turned the gain settings on the LOC to make sure it sends a strong signal to the amp and then tuned the amp accordingly. I also ran a toggle switch to the 12v outlet on the backside of the center console. I did cut my carpet to hide the wire for the remote but with this set up I can turn the 12's off if I want and just have the factory 10 or all 3.

 

Does the amp have a remote turn-on wire connected? If so, where? I ran my amp remote wire to the ignition fuse under the seat.

On a side note: I would kill to be in Hawaii right now! A balmy -17F here right now, air temp! -30F wind chill! Canada can take its arctic air back any day now!

 

Does the amp have a remote turn-on wire connected? If so, where? I ran my amp remote wire to the ignition fuse under the seat.

from my understanding the AMP remote is connected to Line-out converter, Line-out converter doesn't need remote input as it turns on by itself from sensing the signal in the audio input, therefore the remote terminal on the line-out converter must be an out-put remote to turn on the AMP
but I agree Fuse box is better source for remote signal IMO

 

Sorry the "diagram" isn't nicer/cleaner; I'm no wizard in MS Paint.

The LOC does have a remote; it's powered (and grounded) and from what I've read, gets a better / cleaner signal than the non-powered versions. I've never had to use a LOC before; I've always just ran a separate remote from the back of an aftermarket HU. I was thinking if I had to I'd just run on (with a toggle switch) into the ignition wire.

I didn't think about leaving the factory sub installed, primarily because it's half blown (you can hear the voice coil "crunch" at a higher volumes) but maybe adding a different speaker (or replacing the stock one) would be a viable option.

Thanks for the input so far everyone; sure hope someone has that "magic" answer still.

 

I say disconnect the remote wire from the LOC and connect it to the ignition fuse under the seat, bet that is your easiest fix and I bet it works.

 

But that wouldn't change the fact that the LOC isn't powering on, that would just turn the amp on with the vehicle. The LOC powers on by receiving a signal from the speaker level input so without that, nothing is coming on. Even if the amp was powered on, I would get no sound from the subwoofers (because of no signal to the amp).

 

If you want a nice LOC look into AudioControl. They have very nice products.

 

Yep, the LC2i would be perfect. The AccuBass is the best part; gets rid of the bass roll off Bose systems incorporate.

 

I have a problem like this where my amp is on but no bass until I press the switch to one of the windows on drivers console and then bass will flow. Kinda awkward but its easier then trying to trace down problem and fix. Just gotta get used to it

 

From what I understand about your issue, I believe your remote wire is connected to a wire which is somehow linked to your Drivers side window. The amplifier doesn't turn on until the remote wire sends it a signal (which is triggered by rolling your window down).

I'd advise you to take take wire (the remote) and connect it to the pink ignition wire found in your drivers side kick panel. If you'd like a wire "list" of all the wires connected there, let me know, the guy at Best Buy hooked me up with a copy.

 

do you have a remote wire hooked up? i ran mine straight to the fuse box under the hood to the (fused ignition) slot

 

The remote is given by the LOC; it's not that the amp isn't turning on, the LOC isn't turning on (which is telling me, it's not getting a signal from the rear sub when it's disconnected from the factory amp). I think what I may just end up doing is tapping into the front speakers and using them for the LOC as opposed to using the rear sub input (but man, it's SOOO much more work).

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I'm getting 12V from the IGNITION fuse from under the back seat driver side then I got a small 3 inch wire and ran it from the 12v slot on amp to the remote slot and then for my ground I used the factory amp GRND.

I've gotten the diagrams from a buddy of mine at Best Buy who suggested a "pink" wire in the driver's side kick panel for +12V ignition (remote turn-on), which if I decide to replace the LOC, I will end up doing. But the way it currently looks to me is, the LOC isn't turning on because it's not receiving a signal from the rear sub output (from the factory amplifier). I've heard of guys splicing in a light bulb or adding resistors but I just can't seem to figure out what the best method is (or where they spliced it in at).

 

The remote is given by the LOC; it's not that the amp isn't turning on, the LOC isn't turning on (which is telling me, it's not getting a signal from the rear sub when it's disconnected from the factory amp). I think what I may just end up doing is tapping into the front speakers and using them for the LOC as opposed to using the rear sub input (but man, it's SOOO much more work). ---------- I've gotten the diagrams from a buddy of mine at Best Buy who suggested a "pink" wire in the driver's side kick panel for +12V ignition (remote turn-on), which if I decide to replace the LOC, I will end up doing. But the way it currently looks to me is, the LOC isn't turning on because it's not receiving a signal from the rear sub output (from the factory amplifier). I've heard of guys splicing in a light bulb or adding resistors but I just can't seem to figure out what the best method is (or where they spliced it in at).

I was gonna tell tell you to splice a 8ohm 5w resistor to make it work properly. Place it between the sub input (amp output) wires and the LOC.

 

So to clarify, I would essentially need 4x of them (one for each wire, 2x sets of amp outputs into the LOC), both on the negative and positive sides?

 

Yup. One on stock sub voice coil 1 postive, one on stock sub voice coil 1 negative, and repeat for voice coil 2. At least, that is how it was explained to me. Just wire them in in between stock sub wires and LOC inputs. By the way, I finally got around to replying to your PM. Sorry it took so long. Good luck.

 

So to clarify, I would essentially need 4x of them (one for each wire, 2x sets of amp outputs into the LOC), both on the negative and positive sides?

You only need 2. One for each voice coil
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Yup. One on stock sub voice coil 1 postive, one on stock sub voice coil 1 negative, and repeat for voice coil 2. At least, that is how it was explained to me. Just wire them in in between stock sub wires and LOC inputs. By the way, I finally got around to replying to your PM. Sorry it took so long. Good luck.

just wire one connection of the resistor on positive and the other side on the negative. Same location.

 

You only need 2. One for each voice coil
---------- just wire one connection of the resistor on positive and the other side on the negative. Same location.

Okay, I guess I'm confused again. What you're saying is from the amplifier, take each set of (+) / (-) and connect them together with a resistor? How do you connect it to the LOC then?

The below photo is a .PNG that I made explaining what I thought I needed to do and what it sounds like you're suggesting. Any insight would be great!

http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/jasonatjl/media/cts2_zps66a5ee0f.png.html

 

Okay, I guess I'm confused again. What you're saying is from the amplifier, take each set of (+) / (-) and connect them together with a resistor? How do you connect it to the LOC then? The below photo is a .PNG that I made explaining what I thought I needed to do and what it sounds like you're suggesting. Any insight would be great! http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/jasonatjl/media/cts2_zps66a5ee0f.png.html

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y205/Offthahorseceo/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwMjA4LTAwMTE3LmpwZw.jpg

It is explained and confirmed to work in this thread and I got the pic from there: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...c-audio-video-security-systems/221579-02-deville-wiring-subwoofer-amp-need.html

 

Thanks for the photo! I will definitely try that here very soon; I'm sorry about the delayed response. School picked back up for the semester and I took on a new sales job so I'm working 40-50 hours a week. Add in an 8 hour a week internship and I barely have time to sleep.

Anyhow; I'll be sure to let everyone know how it goes. I plan on doing an in-detail write up with photos as this seems to be a common problem (hooking up an amp via LOC after disconnecting a blown factory sub).

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A tech support rep from Stinger explained it differently to me on the phone. Or I misunderstood him. Go with what BlueHaze posted lol

I plan on checking it out; I sure do hope it works! I saved your contact info in a separate .docx as well, so if I have trouble, I'll be sure to get ahold of you via email!

Thanks again everyone!

 

A tech support rep from Stinger explained it differently to me on the phone. Or I misunderstood him. Go with what BlueHaze posted lol

 

Can someone help me and let me know what colors the (+) and (-) wires are at the sub so i can run my LOC. Thanks in advance.

 

What is your email address? I can help you out. PM me

 

Bluehaze07 - found an old thread where you commented on a post.

Big Mahalos on this GMOS-10. Stoked to get my new deck hooked up soon!

 

Bluehaze07 - found an old thread where you commented on a post. Big Mahalos on this GMOS-10. Stoked to get my new deck hooked up soon!

Yeah no worries, talking story about the car was awesome too. It sucks that the tranny went out on it. I miss the caddi.

 

Sounds like you need to step into another. I looked into that STS-V you mentioned; I saw a couple on eBay. As much as I love my sedan, I want to step into a truck, EXT here I come!!

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06 3.6 l

Nice setup! I've thought about dropping an iPad in my dash but I'm too lazy, LOL. I just picked up a Kenwood DDX9702S for the low-low, so I'm in the process of installing that. Dash kit and antenna adapter just came today!

 

Cadillac speakers only turn on when they see a load on them. I was running a loc for awhile and had to add resistors so the factory amp would turn on. I've gone with complete aftermarket now. Spliced into door speaker wires at the amp in the trunk. Disabled the factory amp. Put a kenwood kvt 617 in place of the ashtray and installed a 3g ipad on the dash. Ipad fits perfect.

 

06 3.6 l

 

Its not your remote wire. The amp turns of from the data bus. It has to see a load for the factory sub to send a signal. You could make your own resistor packs between the factory amp and your loc and it will fix the problem. I had the same issue