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I am new here and I haven't seen how it's setup on the ATS. But I would say to pull both sides of the piping/couplers that connects to the intercooler just to be sure.
ATS is in my future plan so I am here to learn of what the ATS has to offer. I do currently own an LNF Cobalt SS Sedan for the past 5 years. From what I've seen, the lnf has a simpler problem but not to the extent of causing hydrolock. The real issue with the LNF is valve coking - residue built-up on the valves.
I would say a RX Catch Can would solve your problem of hydrolock. Got to get the fluid out of the intake system. I have my own custom setup which extra all that soots/oil from entering in my intake manifold. Maybe SC2150 would make some sort of a coupler with a drain valve so one can quickly open and drain the fluid with removing the piping to the intercooler?
 
Same question here. Curious if someone would do a how-to thread to check/drain the intercooler
Don't have the piston problem, yet. Going in on Wednesday to have the plug/ECM done. Spoke with my SA about the intercooler/condensation theory, but he sort of ignored the idea saying he knows little about turbos and that if this was the problem, GM certainly would have had a solution by now. BTW, the SA is only personally aware of 0ne blown engine at Ed Morse Delray Cadillac. Nonetheless, I, too, would like to have a simple DIY check on intercooler condensation.
 
I do think that climate has something to do with this problem as well base on my personal experience. In the summer months I would collect oily soots vs in the winter months I would typically only collect light color chocolate milk soots (because of soot mixed with condensation) in my catch can.
You can't trust on the car manufactures to do things correctly. Although this case it is costing them $$.
 
Add me to the list. 2013 ATS with around 6,700 miles. I don't know the build date. #2 cracked piston. Dealer replaced all the pistons. We got it back this past Saturday and later in the day the CEL came back on again. We're going to take it back to the dealer this afternoon but at this point I'm tempted to just sell the car once it is "fixed" again.
 
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1. smurfkiller 4700 2014 ATS ??/?? #3 replaced .. 2nd engine blew at 69xx miles !!!!!!!!!!
2. 400hpATS 4213 2013 ATS ??/?? #3 warranty would not cover, building aftermarket 800+hp engine
3. caleb bennett ???? 2014 ATS ??/?? #4 repaired
4. byrce2.0t 15000 2013 ATS ??/?? #1&4 repaired
5. shortfur7 5200 2014 ATS ??/?? #3&4 repaired
6. soop3rn0t 6800 2014 ATS 07/13 #4 repaired
7. calicts 9000 ???? CTS ??/?? #1 repaired
8. romanats 20000 2013 ATS ??/?? #3 replaced
9. ElanX 3700? 2014 ATS ??/?? ? repaired (from the other thread this looks like it was injector failed and blew a hole in the piston, maybe not the same type of failure?)
10. Shooter2384 5k miles 2014 ATS ??/?? ? repaired
11. chrisgarner ???? 2014 ATS ??/?? ? replaced
12. Skenny50 6000 ???? ATS ??/?? #4 replaced
13. DB_Outlaw 12000 ???? ATS ??/?? #1 repaired, he sold car then new owner possibly had to have engine replacement
14. Firepower ATS 9000 2014 CTS 09/13 #1 repaired
15. TheRival 5500 2014 ATS 02/2014 #4 replaced
16. parker133t 17000 2013 ATS ??/?? #4 repaired
17. pnm215 20000 2013 ATS ??/?? ? repaired
18. SmurfettesCaddy 16000 2013 ATS ??/?? ? repaired?
19. lemons1843 22000 2013 ATS ??/?? ? repaired?
20. LChris24 40,000 miles 2013 ATS
21. Dolvich 2013 ATS 6700miles #2 cyl failure pistons replaced
22. RemaxAL 2013 ATS 27,000 miles
23. ilovejuicysteak Ats 6700 miles
24. Macvanglist 2013 ATS 6m
25. FDNY-L107 2013 ATS 38k miles
26. GoofyGoober 2013 ATS 34,5k miles #3 cyl failure pistons replaced
27. Darren67 2014 ATS #4 cyl failure
28. Dpelow07 24k miles #4 cyl failure
29. Smurfkiller (loaner car) 2014 CTS 3500 miles engine replacement
 
I'm in Northern Virginia. We use Lindsay Cadillac over in Virginia. The customer service there has been pretty great. They were really apologetic over the issue, especially that the CEL came back on again so soon after we got it back. We're kind of bummed about this whole thing because we were really loving the ATS, but now there's the creeping doubt that we've got a lemon.
 
Hey all. This could be new. Talked to dealer yesterday, they've had the car since New Years Eve. They tore the motor down and apparently the valve seals are the problem in my motor? This was causing my oil consumption. New valve seals and new plugs? AL
 
Hey all. This could be new. Talked to dealer yesterday, they've had the car since New Years Eve. They tore the motor down and apparently the valve seals are the problem in my motor? This was causing my oil consumption. New valve seals and new plugs? AL

Only if you have 20k or more miles...and then we are seeing it is the valve guides wearing from the deposits/coking on the intake valves....in those cases the guides and seales need replaced.
 
Only if you have 20k or more miles...and then we are seeing it is the valve guides wearing from the deposits/coking on the intake valves....in those cases the guides and seales need replaced.
How would that happen? I get that deposits can form on the valves where liquids/vapours are allowed to settle and bake on. But the part of the valve that slides in and out of the guide, how would any deposits get a chance to bake on there, let alone scuff up the guides enough to let oil come all the way down through?
 
How would that happen? I get that deposits can form on the valves where liquids/vapours are allowed to settle and bake on. But the part of the valve that slides in and out of the guide, how would any deposits get a chance to bake on there, let alone scuff up the guides enough to let oil come all the way down through?
I talked to an engine builder and expert so I could understand what happened. He figures the dealer is using bad oil. The dealer has done all the oil changes. Cheers
 
OK. This is just getting ridiculous. We got the car back, they said it was some problem with the vacuum seal and that its now fixed. I drove it yesterday, and it definitely feels different. Doesn't seem to accelerate as well as before, although there is no more engine shuddering when idling. The engine also sounds different when accelerating and it feels like the engine is pulling more... almost like when you accelerate in cold weather and your engine hasn't warmed up enough. Not sure how else to describe it. So today, the wife drove it into the city, gets to her destination and now the power steering failed. I have to go and pick her up since I don't want her to drive w/out the steering. This is just ridiculous.
 
I might be able to help you with the power steering. Check the engine ground wire attached to the front drivers side of the engine block. It is a big black cable with a washer-type head bolted to the block. Mine was loose and caused lots of issues with my power steering. As for the engine problem, I'm afraid I can't be much help with that.
 
Thanks. I'll take a look at it when we get it back from the dealer. Googling the issue and it seems like there is a power steering issue with the car as well. It happened when she turned the car off and then turned it back on right away again, which some other thread talked about as an issue. So hopefully its just limited to that and won't cut out when one of us is driving.
 
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