[ChicagoTommy]

It's mostly 2013/2014 cars. Don't let that scare you though. I, personally, don't think a catch can would make the least bit of difference when it comes to the piston issue. It would be a good idea to run one just to keep the crap out of the intake and intake side of the head. Mishimoto makes the best catch can setup, but they are really proud of their catch cans, as evidenced by the price. If you could duplicate their design for much less than the $500 they want, then do it!

 

[DavidATS]

Quick question. Is there a year this issue is more common on? I have a 2014 2.0T CPO with about 47k miles on it. Wondering
If this will be something to worry about in the future.

Also saw something on a past page that I accidentally closed before zi could really reading suggesting a catch can as a preventive measure, any info on this, its efficacy and how it effects warranties?

I agree with the above and we really don't know the failure rate but I think it is very low. I also don't see a catch can helping with this problem.

While I have no proof of it my opinion is adding boost with a tune only increases the odds of it happening (I don't know how much but I can't see a tune decreasing the problem). Then with your's being a CPO I think you still have a couple of years of time or 23k miles to decide?

 

[schleprx7]

What would be interesting to know is if and when the GM "fix" was implemented on these latest vehicles. I believe the fix was a new tune and colder plugs.

 

[Ragtop 99]

What would be interesting to know is if and when the GM "fix" was implemented on these latest vehicles. I believe the fix was a new tune and colder plugs.

2014s got the fix from the factory. 2013s got a recall for this.

 

[DiabloMike]

2014s got the fix from the factory. 2013s got a recall for this.

there were 14s on the lot before GM announced the fix for the 13s....that doesnt mean they didnt make a change before the 14 MY, but seems unlikely that all 14s automatically got the 'fix'.

 

[oemtech]

deleted

 

[ShaneD]

So, if you were looking at buying a 13/14, should you budget for new pistons and rings right off the bat before even getting a tune?
I want to buy a "toy' that will also be a daily driver. I want to have it for at least five years, and maybe up to ten, trying to improve the performance, handling and braking all the way along, as time and money permit.

Would this be the right car for that plan?

Thanks for any input.

Shane D

 

[ChicagoTommy]

So, if you were looking at buying a 13/14, should you budget for new pistons and rings right off the bat before even getting a tune?
I want to buy a "toy' that will also be a daily driver. I want to have it for at least five years, and maybe up to ten, trying to improve the performance, handling and braking all the way along, as time and money permit.

Would this be the right car for that plan?

Thanks for any input.

Shane D

Personally, I think no. It would not be dependable as a daily if you mod it, especially not for 10 years. And it has nothing to do with model year, pistons still fail in 2017 cars. What would your goal be? Honestly, if you got the trim that comes with MRC, you wouldn't need to touch a thing braking or suspension wise! This current generation of MRC is just short of being magical, and the ATS comes with Brembo brakes from the factory. I guess you could get a pad upgrade for the brakes, but I love my stock setup. Factory ATS pads barely emit any brake dust, whereas the factory pads on my Brembo equipped Chevy SS Sedan will turn the wheels black in no time.

 

[ShaneD]

lt would not be dependable as a daily if you mod it, especially not for 10 years. And it has nothing to do with model year, pistons still fail in 2017 cars. What would your goal be? Honestly, if you got the trim that comes with MRC, you wouldn't need to touch a thing braking or suspension wise! This current generation of MRC is just short of being magical, and the ATS comes with Brembo brakes from the factory. I guess you could get a pad upgrade for the brakes, but I love my stock setup. Factory ATS pads barely emit any brake dust, whereas the factory pads on my Brembo equipped Chevy SS Sedan will turn the wheels black in no time.

Thanks for the reply, but what is an MRC?

Shane D

MRC = Magnetic Ride Control

 

[ChicagoTommy]

Thanks for the reply, but what is an MRC?

Shane D

MRC = Magnetic Ride Control

Yes, Magnetic Ride Control. I wasn't a believer in these systems until this most recent generation. I had the original setup in a Vette, then in my CTS-V Coupe, but the latest generation in my SS Sedan flat out works. My ATS doesn't have MRC, and I can tell a very large difference in body control between it and the SS.

 

[ShaneD]

So, in your opinion, a tune just makes it more likely to have a piston problem? Better to just go with the 3.6?
I found a nice red 3.6/AWD, but they want TOP dollar.
Beautiful 2.0/RWD is $5,000.00 cheaper with much lower mileage.

 

[AdamJT11]

I figure here is as good of a place as any to ask about my compression test results. Ive been trying to figure out if I'll be joining the bad pistons club since I have a bit of a rough idle.
But my compression test came back better than expected. My results were:

_____Cylinder 1____Cylinder 2____Cylinder 3____Cylinder 4
Test 1___149_________145________149_________151
Test 2___150_________145________149_________151
Test 3_______________146


Cylinder 2 was a bit low every time but all cylinders were still well within a 10% variance. I'm just wondering if the 5psi difference on cylinder 2 is something I should be worried about. Test #3 I let it crank longer and it still only got to 146.

 

[oemtech]

I figure here is as good of a place as any to ask about my compression test results. Ive been trying to figure out if I'll be joining the bad pistons club since I have a bit of a rough idle.
But my compression test came back better than expected. My results were:

Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4
Test 1 149 145 149 151
Test 2 150 145 149 151
Test 3 146


Cylinder 2 was a bit low every time but all cylinders were still well within a 10% variance. I'm just wondering if the 5psi difference on cylinder 2 is something I should be worried about. Test #3 I let it crank longer and it still only got to 146.

Rerun the test and put a squirt of oil in each cylinder before the test to see if the numbers change.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

[AdamJT11]

Rerun the test and put a squirt of oil in each cylinder before the test to see if the numbers change.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I looked around and it sounds like a tablespoon is the recommended amount of oil to use, does that sound right?

 

[oemtech]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I looked around and it sounds like a tablespoon is the recommended amount of oil to use, does that sound right?

Sounds about right.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

[ChicagoTommy]

I figure here is as good of a place as any to ask about my compression test results. Ive been trying to figure out if I'll be joining the bad pistons club since I have a bit of a rough idle.
But my compression test came back better than expected. My results were:

_____Cylinder 1____Cylinder 2____Cylinder 3____Cylinder 4
Test 1___149_________145________149_________151
Test 2___150_________145________149_________151
Test 3_______________146


Cylinder 2 was a bit low every time but all cylinders were still well within a 10% variance. I'm just wondering if the 5psi difference on cylinder 2 is something I should be worried about. Test #3 I let it crank longer and it still only got to 146.

I really wouldn't worry about it. A few psi is no big deal. If your #2 was at 90psi, then you'd start to worry.

Personally, I think you're blowing the whole thing out of proportion, and causing yourself undue stress and worry. There isn't anything you can do about it. If a piston lets go, it happens. Don't give yourself an ulcer over it!

 

[JayG728]

So I got a misfire in cylinder 4 last night and I'm kinda freaking out. I really REALLY don't want to have to deal with the dealership. Long story short, I'm a disabled vet that has a well documented anxiety issue and they give me the stank eye every time I walk in. Plus I'm sure they're gonna turn me away if I try to go the warranty route anyways.

My hands were tied last night, I just parked it. I drove it work this morning, no issues. "Maybe it's just a spark plug" is what I keep telling myself, maybe it's an intake leak, maybe its the coils, but I'm pretty worried it's this dreaded piston issue. SO! What should I do?

I intended to change the spark plugs just to ease my anxiety a little but I'm wondering if there is any legitimate preventative measures I can take? I read a pretty convincing argument that a catch can will prevent this so I'm wondering if there are any documented cases of this happening even after a catch can was installed. The latest posts on this thread seem to suggest it won't make a difference. What if I spring for JE forged pistons? A combination of both, perhaps?

Also wondering if I'm going to have to go to the dealer for a compression test. Do I absolutely need them to at the very least look at this so they can tell me what's actually going on? Will they charge me for that? Are they the only ones with the equipment required to figure this out or do they typically have that kinda stuff at chain or privately owned auto repair places?

Please help!

 

[ChicagoTommy]

So, in your opinion, a tune just makes it more likely to have a piston problem? Better to just go with the 3.6?
I found a nice red 3.6/AWD, but they want TOP dollar.
Beautiful 2.0/RWD is $5,000.00 cheaper with much lower mileage.

Since you live in Canuckistan, I would think you'd want to go AWD. How are the winters there in Halifax? Do you think you could get by with a RWD car? Personally, I greatly prefer my AWD and wouldn't buy another car without it unless I move back to Vegas.

If you want 5-10 trouble free years out of it, yes, buy a 3.6. Yes, any tune will probably contribute to piston issues. Every tune turns up the boost in the 2.0t. This piston problem is caused by tight factory ring gaps. So adding more pressure to the combustion chamber is only going to blow the ringland sooner.

As far as what is available RIGHT NOW in your area, are you in a big rush? It's always worthwhile to wait for the best deal, once you figure out what trim and options you want!

 

[AdamJT11]

I really wouldn't worry about it. A few psi is no big deal. If your #2 was at 90psi, then you'd start to worry.

Personally, I think you're blowing the whole thing out of proportion, and causing yourself undue stress and worry. There isn't anything you can do about it. If a piston lets go, it happens. Don't give yourself an ulcer over it!

I think you put a little more concern into my words than I did. Lol.
The two reasons I'm checking the compression are one to try to track down the rough idle and two because I'm planning to get a tune soon and wanting to make sure the pistons don't already have bad rings before I void the warranty.

If I tune it and then a piston lets go, so be it.

 

[ChicagoTommy]

So I got a misfire in cylinder 4 last night and I'm kinda freaking out. I really REALLY don't want to have to deal with the dealership. Long story short, I'm a disabled vet that has a well documented anxiety issue and they give me the stank eye every time I walk in. Plus I'm sure they're gonna turn me away if I try to go the warranty route anyways.

My hands were tied last night, I just parked it. I drove it work this morning, no issues. "Maybe it's just a spark plug" is what I keep telling myself, maybe it's an intake leak, maybe its the coils, but I'm pretty worried it's this dreaded piston issue. SO! What should I do?

I intended to change the spark plugs just to ease my anxiety a little but I'm wondering if there is any legitimate preventative measures I can take? I read a pretty convincing argument that a catch can will prevent this so I'm wondering if there are any documented cases of this happening even after a catch can was installed. The latest posts on this thread seem to suggest it won't make a difference. What if I spring for JE forged pistons? A combination of both, perhaps?

Also wondering if I'm going to have to go to the dealer for a compression test. Do I absolutely need them to at the very least look at this so they can tell me what's actually going on? Will they charge me for that? Are they the only ones with the equipment required to figure this out or do they typically have that kinda stuff at chain or privately owned auto repair places?

Please help!

Jay, man, where are you located? Hopefully someone local to you can lend a hand, or an ear.

How do you know you got a misfire in cyl #4? Were you using some kind of scan tool? Did the check engine light come on?

If you don't have a check engine light, and only saw a random misfire on a scanner, then there is nothing to worry about. Misfires happen all the time for various reasons, and it doesn't mean you engine is going to blow up!

If you did get a check engine light, and used a scan tool to identify the code, what codes were present? It would probably be P0300 and P0304. Even with an illuminated check engine light, that doesn't necessarily mean your engine is trashed.

If you had a flashing check engine light, then that's an issue. I'm not going to needlessly worry you, and I think you would have given that information if it had happened.

Don't get so worked up just yet! It's probably nothing. You'd KNOW if you were having a bad issue that required mechanical intervention! Hopefully that assuages your concerns a bit for now! Once I have a better idea about what happened, I can get you pointed in the right direction. If we can't get someone local to help you out, I don't mind providing help via phone/txt/whatever! As far as the catch can goes, I don't think it solves any problems. Piston issues aren't being caused by crank case blow by, so a catch can wouldn't help in the slightest. Also, don't start buying spark plugs and other parts yet until the issue is identified. You don't want to just throw money away! Any chain and most privately owned repair shops should be able to perform a compression test. It's not anything specific to Cadillac, so a dealer visit wouldn't be required.