My original AWD issues started over a year ago. When trying to engage AWD while driving I would get a loud clunk and it sounded like gears were grinding and whining quite loudly. I stopped trying to engage the AWD unless I was in park from then on. Now, when I do engage the AWD system for rain or snow conditions, all is well until I either stop and start or go from a low mph to a step-on-the-gas situation like going up the steep hill on our road. (This also happened today when testing the AWD on snow and stepping on it) When the message pops up on the display (Service AWD System) the yellow indicator on the center console turns off, indicating the AWD system is not engaged (I verified this on snow today, its really not engaged) I have to turn the car off and back on to get the AWD to engage again. In fact, as soon as I start the car the AWD is engaged and the center console light is back on. The transfer case fluid has been changed. Any ideas on what could be causing this and what to do?
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BEWARE OF SCAMMERS. Anyone trying to get your money should be checked out BEFORE you send anything anywhere.
marlonaphillips
Go to a dealership to have the computers scanned for fault codes
Or purchase a code scanner from AutoZone.
Or purchase a code scanner from AutoZone.
In order for the problem to be properly diagnosed you need to know what code(s) the computer is indicating. If you go to a chain auto parts store, most will check for codes at no cost. However, they can't detect every code that may be stored. If their code scanner is negative then you'll have to go to the dealer. What you can do, is to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for approx. 10 minutes and then reconnecting to see if that takes care of it. However, before you do that have it scanned for codes first since you don't want any codes to be erased with a battery disconnect. There could be a combination of a computer and/or mechanical issue; with the computer communicating with the AWD system.
Good to know you have knowledge of your car. What symptoms have you noticed since changing the battery?
How may miles are on your 2017?
Do you have the original battery?
Does you start/stop function regularly? It cannot be turned off in your 2017 unless you have added the device under the hood to disable it. Have you done that?
These questions may not be directly related to the issue you are describing, but will give us a better idea of the general health of your vehicle. Is there anything else you can add as symptoms you have noticed while driving such as indicators on your dashboard?
I have a 2017 Cadillac xt5. One time while driving at a low speed my husband engaged the AWD ,we heard a loud clunking noise and what sounded like gears grinding. Sometime later while engaging the AWD again it didn't show on my dashboard that the AWD was engaged,but the light on the button was on. My husband called the dealership and they recommended a diagnostic scan. It could be that it's getting low on fluid and needs a flush,or worse case the drive line is going out.
Update on my issue. A certified mechanic who does side work looked at my differential and diagnosed the issue as clutch solenoid valve leaking. He spoke to two Cadillac shops and was told that this part is not serviceable and a replacement rear differential is needed. I have ordered two used differentials from Ebay. The first one sent a transfer case which I now get to keep for free 
The second one sent the correct part but it was also leaking fluid into the electrical connector just like my current and original rear differential. See this picture of my current and original differential.
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I am considering just taking it to the Cadillac dealer for a diagnosis before yet buying another differential on Ebay for $500 and then paying the side hustle mechanic to swap it out.
The second one sent the correct part but it was also leaking fluid into the electrical connector just like my current and original rear differential. See this picture of my current and original differential.
I am considering just taking it to the Cadillac dealer for a diagnosis before yet buying another differential on Ebay for $500 and then paying the side hustle mechanic to swap it out.
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