Anybody have a tutorial or directions on how to program a new remote? Thanks!
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Re: Program Key fob for Cadillac Fleetwood 1994
1. The ignition must be in the "run" position.
2. Find the programming connector that is hanging off a wire harness on the upper left side of the trunk by the left hand hinge. Its a 2-pin male connector with two black-with-white-stripe wires. (*)
3. When you short these two pins together with a screwdriver or shorting plug, the RCDLR will cycle the lock and trunk solenoids to confirm it is ready. This connector will need to remain shorted until your are finished programming the remotes.
4. Pressing any key (only once) on either remote will program that remote to the RCDLR. You will need to re-program both remotes once you begin the procedure. The RCDLR will only remember the last two (2) remotes programmed. Any transmitter codes that were previously programmed will be ereased.
5. The locks will cycle lock-unlock after each remote is programmed to confirm that it register its signal. Once the shorting plug is removed the alarm will sound for 1 second - this indicates that the system is ready. The system will not operate if the shorting plug is not removed.
To disable the automatic unlock-in-park feature:
1. After the last remote is programmed, but before you un-short the programming connector, press the following sequence three (3) times on a remote:
* lock, unlock, trunk
2. The RCDLR will cycle the door locks and trunk release solenoids three times to confirm at the end of the sequence.
To re-enable the unlock-in-park feature of, just repeat the above to reprogram the RCDLR to your remotes, but don't do the special three-button-three-times sequence.
You can match a transmitter to as many different vehicles as you own, provided they are equipped with exactly the same model system.
Reviving Dead Key Fobs
If you suspect the key fob itself isn�t working, the dealership's parts department has a device that will check to see if it is indeed functioning (transmitting) properly. If you have a frequency counter you can check it as well, output is in the 318-320 MHz range. The couple that I've check have been 318.990 & 319.075 MHz - note that no matter which button you press (light, unlock, lock, trunk open, etc.) the transmit frequency does not change.
If they're still not working (after installing fresh batteries) and you feel like messing around with it a little, take the key fob totally apart and clean the contact points behind the rubber membrane and the brass etchings on printed-circuit (PC) board - this may be just enough to bring it back to life! Moisture intrusion and the resulting corrosion on the contacts is usually the culprit in a lot of "not working" situations.
1. The ignition must be in the "run" position.
2. Find the programming connector that is hanging off a wire harness on the upper left side of the trunk by the left hand hinge. Its a 2-pin male connector with two black-with-white-stripe wires. (*)
3. When you short these two pins together with a screwdriver or shorting plug, the RCDLR will cycle the lock and trunk solenoids to confirm it is ready. This connector will need to remain shorted until your are finished programming the remotes.
4. Pressing any key (only once) on either remote will program that remote to the RCDLR. You will need to re-program both remotes once you begin the procedure. The RCDLR will only remember the last two (2) remotes programmed. Any transmitter codes that were previously programmed will be ereased.
5. The locks will cycle lock-unlock after each remote is programmed to confirm that it register its signal. Once the shorting plug is removed the alarm will sound for 1 second - this indicates that the system is ready. The system will not operate if the shorting plug is not removed.
To disable the automatic unlock-in-park feature:
1. After the last remote is programmed, but before you un-short the programming connector, press the following sequence three (3) times on a remote:
* lock, unlock, trunk
2. The RCDLR will cycle the door locks and trunk release solenoids three times to confirm at the end of the sequence.
To re-enable the unlock-in-park feature of, just repeat the above to reprogram the RCDLR to your remotes, but don't do the special three-button-three-times sequence.
You can match a transmitter to as many different vehicles as you own, provided they are equipped with exactly the same model system.
Reviving Dead Key Fobs
If you suspect the key fob itself isn�t working, the dealership's parts department has a device that will check to see if it is indeed functioning (transmitting) properly. If you have a frequency counter you can check it as well, output is in the 318-320 MHz range. The couple that I've check have been 318.990 & 319.075 MHz - note that no matter which button you press (light, unlock, lock, trunk open, etc.) the transmit frequency does not change.
If they're still not working (after installing fresh batteries) and you feel like messing around with it a little, take the key fob totally apart and clean the contact points behind the rubber membrane and the brass etchings on printed-circuit (PC) board - this may be just enough to bring it back to life! Moisture intrusion and the resulting corrosion on the contacts is usually the culprit in a lot of "not working" situations.
Re: Program Key fob for Cadillac Fleetwood 1994
So there is a box in the trunk which powers or enables the alarm, stereo, lighting and etc for the Cadillac Fleetwood? Because my stereo isn't working as the time shows 0:00 and every five seconds it goes off and right back on. The lighting also doesn't turn on and I was told by the previous owner that I have to replace the computer or "box" in the trunk to have that fixed. He told me it runs for a bout "$150," but I don't even know what it is or where to get it. Any help?
So there is a box in the trunk which powers or enables the alarm, stereo, lighting and etc for the Cadillac Fleetwood? Because my stereo isn't working as the time shows 0:00 and every five seconds it goes off and right back on. The lighting also doesn't turn on and I was told by the previous owner that I have to replace the computer or "box" in the trunk to have that fixed. He told me it runs for a bout "$150," but I don't even know what it is or where to get it. Any help?
Re: Program Key fob for Cadillac Fleetwood 1994
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1027415,parttype,2888
You can try this link. This is a link to RockAuto. I think the CCM for our cars is also known as a Body Control Module also. I'm having a Pass Key issue and it seems to be coming from the computer in the trunk because I've already done the resistor mod and I'm still having the issue where the car starts when it wants to.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1027415,parttype,2888
You can try this link. This is a link to RockAuto. I think the CCM for our cars is also known as a Body Control Module also. I'm having a Pass Key issue and it seems to be coming from the computer in the trunk because I've already done the resistor mod and I'm still having the issue where the car starts when it wants to.
Re: Program Key fob for Cadillac Fleetwood 1994
Question - I just bought a 1994 Fleetwood and it came with both remotes which worked except for the trunk button. So I replaced the batteries, cleaned the contacts, and successfully re-programmed following the instructions on this post. But for some reason, the trunk button on both remotes still are not working. For what its worth, the release button in the glove box does work. Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks
Question - I just bought a 1994 Fleetwood and it came with both remotes which worked except for the trunk button. So I replaced the batteries, cleaned the contacts, and successfully re-programmed following the instructions on this post. But for some reason, the trunk button on both remotes still are not working. For what its worth, the release button in the glove box does work. Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks
Re: Program Key fob for Cadillac Fleetwood 1994
Anyone have a picture of the connector? The only black/white wire I see in that area is connected to a ground screw on the torsion bar support bracket on the left side. I don't see a free connector. I even pulled the trunk liner back hoping it might be behind it.
Anyone have a picture of the connector? The only black/white wire I see in that area is connected to a ground screw on the torsion bar support bracket on the left side. I don't see a free connector. I even pulled the trunk liner back hoping it might be behind it.
I just programmed a new remote for my caddy and had no issues. The wire is located on the left back corner of the trunk where the hinge is, there is a black and white wire near a purple and black wire
Thanks Tyler, I looked again and still could not find the connector in the trunk of my Fleetwood; however, I did find the connector in my Fleetwood Brougham. It was not at the trunk lid hinge, it was lower along the fender support beam behind the interior trunk molding. See the pics of my FltwdB. That zip tie is around the factory installed trailer wiring harness. (for some reason , the pics flip upside down when you click on them).
Of course, now my trunk will not close on my FltwB. I'm not sure if I pulled a wire too hard or what. It has never failed me in the past.
Of course, now my trunk will not close on my FltwB. I'm not sure if I pulled a wire too hard or what. It has never failed me in the past.
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Scurling, glad you found the connector. I looked at your pics and even though I had scoured the ENTIRE area from the hinge down to that support beam and beyond on several occasions (practically laying in the trunk even) my '94 Brougham does NOT have that connector and I'm really bummed because I really need to program a 2nd key fob. I have no idea why my car seems to be the odd one out.
JC95FWD: Thanks; I still can't find the connector in my base FLTWD.
My problem: The Fltwd that I need to program the remote is not the Fltwd in which I found the connector. My basic FLtwd is the car in which I can't find the connector. I was using my FltwdB as a comparison.
To my surprise however, my Fltwd does not have the "AU0" code: "Lock control Remote". Seems the previous owner installed a third party system, and I never knew this. The workshop must have disabled, the system when I had some work done on my Fltwd a few weeks ago when the Optisparc went bad. I'm going by the shop tomorrow after work to discuss the issue with them and see what they may have disconnected.
Check the codes for your vehicle. They look like the sample picture below:
My problem: The Fltwd that I need to program the remote is not the Fltwd in which I found the connector. My basic FLtwd is the car in which I can't find the connector. I was using my FltwdB as a comparison.
To my surprise however, my Fltwd does not have the "AU0" code: "Lock control Remote". Seems the previous owner installed a third party system, and I never knew this. The workshop must have disabled, the system when I had some work done on my Fltwd a few weeks ago when the Optisparc went bad. I'm going by the shop tomorrow after work to discuss the issue with them and see what they may have disconnected.
Check the codes for your vehicle. They look like the sample picture below:
Attachments
scurling, thanks for the reply. Somewhat surprisingly, my pretty-well-optioned '94 FWB does not have that AU0 RPO code on the trunk label either. Is that why I have not been able to locate that connector that you need to short in order to reprogram key fobs? If so, how in the heck can I do so?
yes, your Fltwd does not have the factory installed remote lock/entry system. It is logical to suspect a previous owner installed a third party device, as they did on my Fltwd. I never knew it was not a factory system, because I never had a reason to question it's origin. The system on my vehicle was installed under the dashboard below the steering wheel, behind the cover plate.
As I previously explained, the mechanic working on my car, disconnected the system, to troubleshoot why my car was not starting. He said he though it may have been interfering with the start-up/ignition circuits. He never reconnected the system. I'll be investigating reconnecting it or maybe a newer system. I'm sure the system was installed by the original owner. It was a funeral home fleet vehicle.
Look under your dash for the installation. It needs to be close to, or around the starter switch and wiring. Once you know the vendor/manufacturer, you can go online or call them for assistance with the reprogramming effort.
Help! Am I reading in this post that keyless entry was not standard on Cadillac Fleetwoods in 1994!? I like some other comments on here have taken out the entire interior lining of my cars trunk and NO connector to do the programming. When I bought my car from the original owners, there were no remotes so I just bought some OEM ones off eBay. I have seen some posts across the web about programming key fobs on 1993 Fleetwoods using a jump wire in the OBD under the dash.. my car is a 1994 built in 12/93 so thought it retained some 1993 items like the key fob programming.. but following those instructions did not start the programming cycle. Has anyone had this same problem that they have solved or was this truly an option that my car may not have!? I would be shocked if that were the case because key fobs were standard on Lincoln (even the base Executive Series) starting 1990. I was in the limousine business from 1989 till 2010 and bought new TC’s all the time. Can’t believe Cadillac would be that far behind by 1994. Please help if you can! Thanks!
From what I have seen if a car came with remotes it wil have a plate lock to get to the gas cap. If you open the trunk and on the left side there is a lever to lock and unlock the plate from going down and getting to the gas cap, if you have the lever it came with a remote. Not there your going to have to put on a aftermarket.
Not so. The lock for the rear plate cover to the tank file was part of the Security System Option which also had the horn beeping if the car is breached without the key or remote being used. RKE is separate from the Security system and was offered without it, but I think to have the serucity system you also have to have RKE. My 1995 had RKE but not the Serucity system. My 1996 has both. and my fobs are still not working.
I tried to have one key fob programmed for one Caddy, to another, the guy popped my trunk, connecting his laptop to a port in the wiring harness in the trunk???
I was dismayed by this but went on and let him do his thing.
Bad decision, Not only did he not program the fob, but he mess up the connection to the electric closing trunk.
I ended up taking the car to the dealership to straighten out this error ($800.00)
The company that the guy worked for paid for it.
Just beware of people who think they know more about this car than the dealership.....take to the dealership first.
I was dismayed by this but went on and let him do his thing.
Bad decision, Not only did he not program the fob, but he mess up the connection to the electric closing trunk.
I ended up taking the car to the dealership to straighten out this error ($800.00)
The company that the guy worked for paid for it.
Just beware of people who think they know more about this car than the dealership.....take to the dealership first.
Programming the key fobs on my '96 required me to ground one of the wires that is not connected to anything near the box in the trunk. Purchased several fobs off ebay and found out you can only have 2 programmed at a time. Perhaps this may help: 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham Keyless Entry Remote Programming Instructions - NorthCoast Keyless
To check if your car has factory keyless, look at the SPID and look for option AU0. If that's not there, no keyless.
Hey Mike Did you not correct me about my misunderstanding about the security system and the RKE system being two different systems in post #31. I was going on my experience and I never had a car with RKE and not have a security system. Every time I have reprogramed the remotes , as soon as I put the jumper on the door locks activated. It is nice to have spare parts to trouble shoot these problems. Through the years everytime I had a chance to buy these parts at the junk yard I did. I have had two of these modules through the years go bad on me. Thats not in one car , I have 3 of these cars on the road now and had a few I sold.
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