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14 ATS4 - ZZP Intake Tube, ZZP DP, Renick Exhaust, Throttle Body upgrade, ZZP FMIC, ZZP Tune
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You could also go with a turbobay unit which is basically 7252 in size, you won't get as much top end rpm as the 6758 but the response will be quicker than stock. You will also need to address the in-tank pump if you want to start using ethanol above 380whp. Upgrading to a ZL1 in-tank or custom style ZL1 can quickly address fuel issues after upgrading the turbo. I think the stock mechanical fuel system is totally fine and doesn't need an overdrive cam. $1200 for a set of cams...new ones are less than $100 and could be custom machined at a shop of your choosing for much less.
That's great information that I will look into! I greatly appreciate it!
 

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14 ATS4 - ZZP Intake Tube, ZZP DP, Renick Exhaust, Throttle Body upgrade, ZZP FMIC, ZZP Tune
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I think I'll stick with the ZZP turbo, I'd have to trade my core in for a Turbo Bay turbo. What modifications would I need to do in order to make the ZL1 fuel pump work/fit?
 

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I think I'll stick with the ZZP turbo, I'd have to trade my core in for a Turbo Bay turbo. What modifications would I need to do in order to make the ZL1 fuel pump work/fit?
Pretty sure its just the housing and mount that's attached. Should be able to make the modification pretty easily based on what others have told me. If you look at pictures online of the ats style pump vs zl1 you will see the difference. You could reach out to someone like tapout tuning, they sell ats v pumps with zl1 style housings and upgraded pumps. I'm sure they could use an ats pump instead of an ats v. What are your power goals? Good luck with the 6758, it's not a bad turbo. I have also seen others using a 67x50mm stock turbo big wheel that are around the 380-400 whp/wtq area. The Ti springs & retainers will also be useful if you plan on revving it past 6500. You should also look at upgrading your cooling. The stock 350W fan can be swapped out for a 600w fan and ZZP sells an all aluminum radiator. I also run dual aeroforce gauges, aeroforce sells a dual pod that mounts in the air vent. It's super cool and the gauges have all kinds of features. I use it to trigger an led when I get any KR. Only downside is I can't use the gauges and hptuners at the same time.
 

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14 ATS4 - ZZP Intake Tube, ZZP DP, Renick Exhaust, Throttle Body upgrade, ZZP FMIC, ZZP Tune
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Pretty sure its just the housing and mount that's attached. Should be able to make the modification pretty easily based on what others have told me. If you look at pictures online of the ats style pump vs zl1 you will see the difference. You could reach out to someone like tapout tuning, they sell ats v pumps with zl1 style housings and upgraded pumps. I'm sure they could use an ats pump instead of an ats v. What are your power goals? Good luck with the 6758, it's not a bad turbo. I have also seen others using a 67x50mm stock turbo big wheel that are around the 380-400 whp/wtq area. The Ti springs & retainers will also be useful if you plan on revving it past 6500. You should also look at upgrading your cooling. The stock 350W fan can be swapped out for a 600w fan and ZZP sells an all aluminum radiator. I also run dual aeroforce gauges, aeroforce sells a dual pod that mounts in the air vent. It's super cool and the gauges have all kinds of features. I use it to trigger an led when I get any KR. Only downside is I can't use the gauges and hptuners at the same time.
Power goals would be in the 400-450whp range. I did look into the big wheel turbo, but I don't think that would get me where I'd like to be. I tend to shift in the 5500-5800rpm range. To me, anything higher than that feels kind of dead and seems like I'm stressing or holding the gear too long. Funny you bring up the gauge pod. I've been trying to figure out WTF to do with my gauges and where to place them. A single pod to me is pointless. I was going to create a pod in the lift tray (since I don't use it), but I feel that if I do that, I'll need the space at some point. Not to mention I don't really want to drive with that open all of the time. You're saying you can't do a scan or log with HPT and your gauges active at the same time? That's rather interesting. Thanks for the info on the fuel pump as well.
 

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Yeah running two obd2 gauges pulls too much data. If you split the stream hptuners will not record accurate data. nGauge might be the better option if you only want go with a single gauge as I believe it allows you to record data out. Yeah the stock turbo stops flowing around that range. If you can afford a $2000 turbo I would strongly advise to just do a full build. You can buy another ltg with low miles around 750-1200 bucks. A few months ago I saw LKQ getting rid of them for as low as $600. You can also buy an awd block and swap the oil pan to fit an awd car. If you swapped the engine and payed a shop to do the machine work and short block assembly your looking at around $3500-4500 to have a block that is good for 450-500whp, plus you have your original block if something does happen... Hardest part about getting the block out is taking the intake and turbo off. You can also pull it without messing with the front bumper assembly. Eventually you will be wanting to do this if you want the car to be reliable and you don't want to blow your engine because it will hurt that shiny expensive turbo. This is my long term plan once I move off the stock turbo setup and go with a bigger EFR. The early model years I believe don't have a wideband or ecm for the fuel pump. You will need to research the fuel pump stuff to see if it will actually work for you. The aeroforce gauges can connect to a wideband, so try to find one that can also work with hptuners. It would be super beneficial for you to have a wideband if you really want to tune the car correctly.

You would be surprised how much the stock turbo can make if modified. They make a bunch of torque but won't make much past 6k with the biggest wheel you can fit. They will make about 43-45lbs a minute. However, torque is what kills these engines. Even on a built block, making 450-500wtq is putting tons of stress on the little 2.0. It will be interesting to see what will happen when people start to fit 7670+ size turbos on these cars. I know ZZP made around 500 with a Z57 which is 257sxe/7670 spec. However, that was on a built block and it made roughly the same torque. It would be interesting to put that combo on a stock engine and tune it only to make power above peak torque. That is what the EVO guys do and it allows them to make consistent torque all the way to whatever RPM the engine can handle. I have seen some running the bigger EFR's all the way to 550whp. They simply build the head to make the power and then make the turbo do all the work. That being said, they don't go over 380wtq because the engine can't handle it.
 

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Yeah running two obd2 gauges pulls too much data. If you split the stream hptuners will not record accurate data. nGauge might be the better option if you only want go with a single gauge as I believe it allows you to record data out. Yeah the stock turbo stops flowing around that range. If you can afford a $2000 turbo I would strongly advise to just do a full build. You can buy another ltg with low miles around 750-1200 bucks. A few months ago I saw LKQ getting rid of them for as low as $600. You can also buy an awd block and swap the oil pan to fit an awd car. If you swapped the engine and payed a shop to do the machine work and short block assembly your looking at around $3500-4500 to have a block that is good for 450-500whp, plus you have your original block if something does happen... Hardest part about getting the block out is taking the intake and turbo off. You can also pull it without messing with the front bumper assembly. Eventually you will be wanting to do this if you want the car to be reliable and you don't want to blow your engine because it will hurt that shiny expensive turbo. This is my long term plan once I move off the stock turbo setup and go with a bigger EFR. If you decide to go bigger than the 6758, you will want to look at getting a performance torque converter with a higher stall so you can still launch the car. The early model years I believe don't have a wideband or ecm for the fuel pump. You will need to research the fuel pump stuff to see if it will actually work for you. The aeroforce gauges can connect to a wideband, so try to find one that can also work with hptuners. It would be super beneficial for you to have a wideband if you really want to tune the car correctly.

You would be surprised how much the stock turbo can make if modified. They make a bunch of torque but won't make much past 6k with the biggest wheel you can fit. They will make about 43-45lbs a minute. However, torque is what kills these engines. Even on a built block, making 450-500wtq is putting tons of stress on the little 2.0. It will be interesting to see what will happen when people start to fit 7670+ size turbos on these cars. I know ZZP made around 500 with a Z57 which is 257sxe/7670 spec. However, that was on a built block and it made roughly the same torque. It would be interesting to put that combo on a stock engine and tune it only to make power above peak torque. That is what the EVO guys do and it allows them to make consistent torque all the way to whatever RPM the engine can handle. I have seen some running the bigger EFR's all the way to 550whp. They simply build the head to make the power and then make the turbo do all the work. That being said, they don't go over 380wtq because the engine can't handle it.
Thats actually a really interesting concept!
 
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