Hey guys I am the owner of 2013 XTS with 86K on the meter. I have a problem that I cant seem to identify. My car when cold sound like there is a hole in the intake or exhaust gasket under the hood....IT VERY LOUD. The warmer the engine gets it the quitter the sound but it nevers goes away. Iis there any insight anyone can give. see attached video.
XTS engine sound from exhaust or intake - Catalytic convertor flange crack
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hgreen70
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Just was wondering if u ever figured out the problem cause I have the same problem right now
2013 XTS4 Platinum '91 Caprice Wagon '15 Impala LTZ (wife's)
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Check out this recent thread on exhaust leak caused by cracked metal at the weld by the cat.
XTS startup noise
Hi I’m new to this on forums so bare with me.I own a 2014 Cadillac XTS and I have had nothing but bad luck at three Cadillac dealers I’ve taken my car to. I’m very mechanically inclined but chose to let the dealer work on my car since new.This will not ever happen again and now I hope my posts...
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With the engine off, use a bright light and an inspection mirror to visually inspect the area around the exhaust manifold flange where the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter attach on the front of the engine. Look for black, sooty residue, indicating an exhaust leak. Continue inspecting the area around weld bead at the bottom of the catalytic converter.
If the exhaust pipe on the rear of the engine is the source, you'll need to remove the engine cover and try to find the leak which is a lot harder to gain access.
On a small leak in the flange area, once the metal heats up, the joint gets smaller and can reduce the sound considerably, which is why the sound is so much more pronounced during a cold start.
CCC
If the exhaust pipe on the rear of the engine is the source, you'll need to remove the engine cover and try to find the leak which is a lot harder to gain access.
On a small leak in the flange area, once the metal heats up, the joint gets smaller and can reduce the sound considerably, which is why the sound is so much more pronounced during a cold start.
CCC
Update: My exhaust leak is located at the exhaust pipe upper flange on the front of the engine. As the engine heats up, the sound is reduced, but on a cold start, it's very evident.
I applied a bead of JB Weld Extreme Heat on the flange above the heat shield that protects the oxygen sensor., being careful not to stake the flange nuts. After air curing overnight, the sound was gone on start-up. I've driven the car for a few days and all is good. Even if the bond joint eventually fails, at least I know the source of the problem for subsequent replacement of the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter, which runs about $350. If it lasts indefinitely, I got off easy, spending $8.
A shop quoted me 14 hours of labor for the replacement which I thought was a little excessive, so I obtained the replacement procedure and it's straightforward enough. Remove the oxygen sensor, loosen the flange bolts, go under the car and loosen the next section of pipe, then remove and replace the offending component, replacing the exhaust gaskets. I can't see where that would take more than two or three hours unless a nut is stuck or a stud breaks.
If the bond joint yields, I'll replace the pipe and provide an update.
This occurred just under 80k miles.
CCC
I applied a bead of JB Weld Extreme Heat on the flange above the heat shield that protects the oxygen sensor., being careful not to stake the flange nuts. After air curing overnight, the sound was gone on start-up. I've driven the car for a few days and all is good. Even if the bond joint eventually fails, at least I know the source of the problem for subsequent replacement of the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter, which runs about $350. If it lasts indefinitely, I got off easy, spending $8.
A shop quoted me 14 hours of labor for the replacement which I thought was a little excessive, so I obtained the replacement procedure and it's straightforward enough. Remove the oxygen sensor, loosen the flange bolts, go under the car and loosen the next section of pipe, then remove and replace the offending component, replacing the exhaust gaskets. I can't see where that would take more than two or three hours unless a nut is stuck or a stud breaks.
If the bond joint yields, I'll replace the pipe and provide an update.
This occurred just under 80k miles.
CCC
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Update!! It was the catalytic converter, there was a hairline crack at the bottom of the converter. Thankfully, it was all covered under the emission warranty which is 80,000 miles. I was given a loaner vehicle while they conducted the repair free of charge. Due to the on going GM strike it took about 3 weeks to get the new converter. Car is back running smooth no noise or rattling at start up!!
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just joined forum to mainly thank you thank you for this...just ran out to adv auto for some jb weld as a temp repair.....followed other forums and chained all 4 cam sensors to no avail ...hope that thhis is the issue....THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Update: After ten months, the JB-Weld patch job over my cracked (front) exhaust pipe coming off the exhaust manifold finally gave up the ghost and suffered a circumferential crack as shown in the video of the first post. I scheduled an appointment with my dealer three weeks ago to install a new exhaust pipe/catalyitic converter (for today) and last week on the way home from work, the pipe yielded, with the expected hellatious exhaust note all the way home. Due to the pipe falling forward, the thermoplastic shroud shield on the back of the radiator melted, so that gets replaced too.
Once home, I applied another bead of J-B weld in place both on the inside and outside of the pipe, then re-attached the flange to the exhaust manifold. The four studs that retain the flange had extra threads showing on them, so I installed 11/16" nuts part way, then used lock wire to create a mechanical support from the pipe shield to the gap between the nuts, then tightened everything up. As expected, after ignition, the JB-Weld lasted for 15 seconds, but the lock wire kept the pipe within 1/16" of the flange so the exhaust noise was 1/10 of what I experienced driving home last week, causing mothers to shield their children as I drove by.
I anticipate a $3k bill for this. . .
If you are experiencing a similar issue but it hasn't completely yielded, I advise you to at least lock-wire the pipe to the exposed stud threads, and get thee hence to a repair shop before it gets any worse. Eventually the pipe will yield, but at least it won't cause any damage to the shroud that protects the cooling fans on the back of the radiator.
CCC
Once home, I applied another bead of J-B weld in place both on the inside and outside of the pipe, then re-attached the flange to the exhaust manifold. The four studs that retain the flange had extra threads showing on them, so I installed 11/16" nuts part way, then used lock wire to create a mechanical support from the pipe shield to the gap between the nuts, then tightened everything up. As expected, after ignition, the JB-Weld lasted for 15 seconds, but the lock wire kept the pipe within 1/16" of the flange so the exhaust noise was 1/10 of what I experienced driving home last week, causing mothers to shield their children as I drove by.
I anticipate a $3k bill for this. . .
If you are experiencing a similar issue but it hasn't completely yielded, I advise you to at least lock-wire the pipe to the exposed stud threads, and get thee hence to a repair shop before it gets any worse. Eventually the pipe will yield, but at least it won't cause any damage to the shroud that protects the cooling fans on the back of the radiator.
CCC
Hey all,
On my 2016 XTS with 86K miles, I have an exhaust leak at the front manifold. You can hear it loudly at cold start up, and it goes away after about 30 seconds. But, I can still feel it around the cat to head attach.
I ordered a brand new OEM gasket, and replaced that, and still get the same sound. And I can still feel the leak. How likely is it that I have a crack in the cat exhaust pipe? Is that a common problem?
I know on my 2010 Saab 9-5 the rear collector pipe was prone to cracking, wondering if this could be a similar issue.
Thank you,
Matt
![595297]( "595297")
On my 2016 XTS with 86K miles, I have an exhaust leak at the front manifold. You can hear it loudly at cold start up, and it goes away after about 30 seconds. But, I can still feel it around the cat to head attach.
I ordered a brand new OEM gasket, and replaced that, and still get the same sound. And I can still feel the leak. How likely is it that I have a crack in the cat exhaust pipe? Is that a common problem?
I know on my 2010 Saab 9-5 the rear collector pipe was prone to cracking, wondering if this could be a similar issue.
Thank you,
Matt
2013 XTS4 Platinum '91 Caprice Wagon '15 Impala LTZ (wife's)
Joined
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908 Posts
XTS startup noise
Hi I’m new to this on forums so bare with me.I own a 2014 Cadillac XTS and I have had nothing but bad luck at three Cadillac dealers I’ve taken my car to. I’m very mechanically inclined but chose to let the dealer work on my car since new.This will not ever happen again and now I hope my posts...
www.cadillacforums.com
Joined
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14 Posts
I just found the same issue on my 13 today. My mechanic said get it to a good muffler shop and have it (the cat) welded up.
My leak is right behind the shield that surrounds The O2 sensor. I'm headed that way Wednesday.
A new one from Rock Auto runs 250-300.
My leak is right behind the shield that surrounds The O2 sensor. I'm headed that way Wednesday.
A new one from Rock Auto runs 250-300.
Mine is louder on cold start but it seems to be from the rear near the mufflers. I'll see if I can get underneath and take a look soon.
I had the issue on my 2015 around 110,000 miles. The Cat came off of the exhaust manifold. Sounded like a hot rod. Unfortunately the radiator and dual fans were shrapnel casualties. My mechanic did weld everything back together.
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Any updates on this now that it's been a few years? Did the JB Weld work for you? I have the same issue on my 2014 XTS and I really don't want to replace a cat.
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