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Wouldja still buy a 2001-2006 Escalade today?

12K views 45 replies 15 participants last post by  alexskiwilliams1953  
#1 ·
how viable is a 2001-2006 regular length Escalade in todays world for a daily mostly) driver???...

trying to search on this Forum for usual issues or common failure points and if it might be worth in to purchase an under 100K mile appearing Escalade that will not be troublesome but I understand it is still an almost 20 year old vehicle...what should I be looking for...

I realize I'm being somewhat generic in my questions but I am just at the starting point in this (again) after letting a couple GMT400 Suburban and Escalade move on in the somewhat recent past...

Anything you'd care to share will be appreciated...

Thanks,

Bill
 
#3 · (Edited)
"........ Anything you'd care to share will be appreciated...

Thanks, Bill"

I have an 06 Escalade base model on which I did a complete resto-build. Having gone completely throug it, here are a few things I suggest you investigate; including things that will likely need service or replacement.
1. Rust. Check thoroughly for undercarriage rust with special attention to rocker panels.
2. Suspension. At 20 years old it's likely the airide suspension has been replaced. If not, it will likely need be. If so, make sure it's working properly; or else plan to replace its major components with OE quality shocks and compressor. Also check ball joints, bearings, control arms, etc.
3. Engine: The LQ9 engine is pretty much bullet proof if it received proper maintenance. Check for leaks, particularly look at the rear main seal. Also consider cleaning the intqake manifold, throttle body and fuel injectors.
4. Transmission: Consider upgrading the transmission cooler. Also, if the transmission is showing signs of wear consider doing an upgrade Stage 2 rebuild. The parts are stronger and can handle more torque and hp. Plus, their added cost is reasonable in comparison to OE level parts.
5. HVAC: Check to see if front/rear HVAC components are functioning properly. GM trucks are notorious for failed blend door actuators. Prices for these are decent and install pretty simple.
6. Gauges: Check instrument cluster to be sure gauges are properly working. If not, consider buying a rebuilt gauge cluster.
7. Check powersteering/brake booster for leaks.
8. Run and OBD2 test for hidden issues such as bad sensors.
9. It's likely the fuel evap valve, canister and overflow lines will need cleaning or replacement as they tend to get clogged with soot. You may get an OBD2 code if they need attention; but for sure you will have trouble filling the gas tank if they are clogged.
10. Plan on changing out all fluids, including in differentials.
 
#4 ·
I would buy a non-AWD if anything. I had a 2003 ESV from 2003-2009. I bought new and sold with 103k. I have to say that I never seen the MIL light but the transmission did fail twice. Once at 75k & 96k, 75k transmission rebuild and 96k torque converter replacement. I had allot of issues with my 2003, like on hot summer days it would almost overheat due to the fans not being electric only, by clutch which was a bad design and this happened even when new. The dash had to be replaced due to pealing, center armrest back would peal x2, front seat rear map pockets would sag even though I never kept anything in it. I also want to mention the rear ac vents did not blow evenly (bad design), AC vent door actuator broke, pitman arm, passenger power window regulator had to be replaced and the navigation radio had to be replaced 3x due to the buttons pealing. The 3rd brake light, AC control light, headlight switch light, cluster and steering wheel lights blew out and had to be replaced. The fog lights lenses fell off, xenon headlight ballast blew and I had to replace the key tumbler twice. My 2003 was babied and for all this to happen before turning 100k was ridiculous. The shock pump would run all the time even after replacing all the shocks. My 2008 was much better then my 2003 but not by much. My 2008 door handles broke off, catalytic converter, multiple sensors, battery cables, door actuators, engine mounts, rear main seal, heated seat module and radio was replaced before 100k. Now my 2018 is better because the only thing that had to be replaced was the two front struts, oil pan seal & lifter failure at 79k. I got 92k on my 2018 now and nothing fell apart and the interior looks almost new. Everything works as designed. The lifter failure was probably because I was not using Dexo 1 oil and I was waiting for the oil monitor to reach zero. GM updated the vlom which was the reason why the DOD trucks was having lifter issues. The 2002-2006 Escalades had lots of cheap plastic interior parts like the 90s GM cars.
 
#5 ·
I'd do it. I'd try for a 2006, last year of that body style. Good list of repairs/issues above. I'd add tires and battery unless reasonably new-ish. IMHO the transmission is due to fail unless it already has been replaced. Do an tranny upgrade and rear main seal while it is out.

Yes, a lot of plastic bits but a lot of the parts interchange with a Suburban/Tahoe and full size pick-ups.

My leather seats are shot but I hauled kids and dogs. Probably next on my rehab list.

As Hoovie says, the seats are so much more comfortably padded than say my wife's new XT5.
 
#6 ·
I went to look at the one I had high hopes for...but I've been fooled by great looking photos only to find either photo magic applied to those pics or something else to hide the flaws...

saw a couple things cosmetically right off the bat but that didn't really concern me as this IS a 17 year old vehicle...while the sales guy went to get the keys I looked underneath...like a Chevy Avalanche I also looked at recently this one had orange "gators back" flaky rust everywhere...

I found the sales guy still searching for the keys and said don't bother looking further because of the rust...

thanks for sharing your feedback and experience everyone...

Bill
 
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#7 ·
My 2006 Escalade has 170,000 miles. Had the transmission rebuilt at 130,000 miles. Only thing that has gone wrong with the engine was a fuel pump. No problems with the AWD.
Just got an inspection sticker. Had issues trying to get the parking brake to work.
 
#27 ·
My 2006 Escalade has 170,000 miles. Had the transmission rebuilt at 130,000 miles. Only thing that has gone wrong with the engine was a fuel pump. No problems with the AWD. Just got an inspection sticker. Had issues trying to get the parking brake to work.
I bought 06 Ext. I have 71k on it. It was 52 k employee price. Program. Garaged still smells new in it.
 
#8 ·
I bought my 05 a couple years ago with 81k miles on it
its got 107k now and is my daily driver
we also use it to haul family on our trips

mechanically, It’s been great, only needed a Pitman arm replaced
i e had to reolace 2 or 3 of the window regulators but that’s not hard

highly recommended if you can find a well kept one
 
#9 ·
Thing with gmt800 Escalades is they’re the most produced generation 300-350k made so plenty of them out there on eBay motors is a 56k miles one for sale.? If you wanted to see but it’s in Fla but if you’re stuck on this gen then get best one possible! But I personally have a gmt400 Escalade but they are very hard to find in really nice condition especially interior parts an just under 49k units produced so not as many out there plus now 22-23 years later most where used up! But if possible find out what day it was built Wednesday Thursdays are best as everyone is in the groove of the work week vs a weekend built that might have a hungover worker or 2 building it. Lol but good history of service is always best ! Good hunting
 
#10 ·
That depends very much on what you are looking for and your personal situation. If you are looking for an absolutely awesome car that is super easy to repair, whose spare parts supply is really good, and you don't care about the fuel consumption or at least it doesn't matter that much, the car is sensational.

If you can fix it yourself and possibly have access to a hydraulic lift, you're on the road to winnings.

If you're short on funds and can't repair it yourself and don't have access to a good workshop, the car may not be right for you.

I drive an Escalade daily, have my own workshop and can repair everything, including automatic transmissions.

My car has 200,000 km down, I've repaired a few things, but nothing serious was broken, just more or less normal wear and tear. i love this car.

I used to only drive German cars because I'm from Germany and I thought German cars were the best in the world. The times are long gone, since the 2000s at the latest, the technically totally over engineered, hard-to-repair, disposable cars have become that I am no longer willing to drive.

Because I want to drive and not constantly annoy myself.

That's how I got into the Escalade because a friend of mine has been driving a Tahoe for 17 years.

And I haven't regretted the decision one single day.
 
#11 ·
For a daily driver, no.

Keep in mind the newest gmt800 is 17 years old. It's going to need constant maintenance, as everything made of rubber is on its way out. Gaskets are flattening out and will need replacing.

They are easy-ish to work on, and can run poorly forever, but anything this old should be relegated to occasional duty, or home improvement store runs.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Why should an GMT800 be not capable as a daily driver? It depends on the condition and on the maintenance.

I drive my car daily, I do the maintenance myself and a GMT 800 is good for 300.000 Miles, even if it can be that you have a transmission problem, or other issues. But it is all fixable.

If you drive today one of this shit electric, hybrid or even these downsized engines with turbo and AGR valves systems, you will have trouble soon, especially with German cars.
 
#13 ·
I'd say the same thing for any 17 year old vehicle.

If you go into the purchase knowing maintenance will be more frequent compared to newer vehicles, and you can afford to take it to a shop, or can do the work, fine.

But if you are just looking to save money on the purchase price, you're going to have a bad time.
 
#14 ·
I'd say the same thing for any 17 year old vehicle.

If you go into the purchase knowing maintenance will be more frequent compared to newer vehicles, and you can afford to take it to a shop, or can do the work, fine.

But if you are just looking to save money on the purchase price, you're going to have a bad time.
So I guess you never worked yourself on cars.;)

You definitely can't say that on every 17 year old car. Take a 7 year old Mercedes hybrid for example. A friend of mine bought one short ago. Only 83.000 miles. This car run for 3 month, then it breaks down with an engine lamp on. Mercedes told him, the hybrid battery is wrecked. 17,000 euros cost.

Take a 17 year old Audi and try to repair this over engineered bullshit.

Take a 17 year old Land Rover and try to save this English garbage from rust.

Take a 17 year old BMW X5 and try to fix problems with the automatic transmission.

You can see at this both pictures what I mean. The first one is the timing chain of an Audi 3 Liter Diesel V6.

And the second one is the timing chain of an Escalade.

Tell me what you think, what lasts longer and what is easier to repair...

Image
Image
 
#18 ·
I hope you all will allow me to check in here once in awhile but my latest purchase may be (deal made, downpayment accepted but vehicle and full payment not yet made...) a 2005 GMC Yukon Denali...I realize that it is not an Escalade of the same vintage but it is similar in a lot of ways...GMT800 platform

Thanks for sharing what you have...I'm always willing to absorb knowledge and share what I can along the way

Bill
 
#19 ·
That is a good choice. I like the look of the Yukon and the technic is in big parts equal.

I was also interested for a Yukon Denali when I was looking for a GMT 820 but I liked the dashboard of the Escalade more and found a good one. So my choose fell at the Escalade.

You should exchange al fluids. Especially the automatic transmission, Transfercase and front and rear differential. As well, I would exchange the steering oil and most important. Swap the O-ring of the oil pump if not already done. That is work, but prevents you from oil pressure problems. That is one weak part of the engines.

I wish you always fun with the car.....

If you have problems I think you will find help here as well.
 
#22 ·
yesterday was a long day (no pun intended)...but the Denali is mine now...doesn't appear to be any rust on the body...some rust underneath (it IS 18 years old and been in the Midwest all it's life) and I have some stuff to take care of but that's okay with me...

thanks everyone

Bill
 
#25 ·
I'll include sellers photo but I want to clean it up before showing...I've been doing little things that you might need to do on an 18 year old vehicle not used as a daily driver...

Image
 
#30 ·
no...he put 265/65/17s on...and they howl over the road...the wheels have a good amount of corrosion especially in the area around the valve stems...the tires are brand new...

I'm trying to decide if I want to purchase new tires and wheels and if I'd go with 17"s, easier to find 18"s or the optional 20" wheels...I'm leaning to the 18"s to keep the ride but I've had much more to keep my attention than the wheels and tires for now...

Bill
 
#32 ·
Congrats Bill. She's in great shape.

I remember when those came out and one of my colleagues bought one. Man, they were striking back in the day and they've held up quite well for almost two decades now - certainly doesn't look its age.

Fantastic stuff!
 
#33 ·
thanks guys...GM must have sold a LOT of GMT800s as I've had a few neighbors come by while I'm working to tell me they had one like it or similar...

I've ordered from an eBay seller with thousands of positive sales a replacement driver's side front impact sensor as my light came on and BluDriver scan showed which one it was (as well as checked by mechanics on Tech2)...hopefully that arrives soon and is the fix for my air bag light...

thanks as always for the support...the more I drive this the more I enjoy it...

Bill