[Smartieab]

Does anyone else’s DTS eat brake pads? Just replaced them again. This time with just under 30k on them. Now for back ground I am 51 don’t ride the brakes on slam them on, and have never replaced brakes basically yearly before. Usually every other around 50k.
Does everyone else replace pads like this?

 

[RomoRock3r]

My 2011 DTS had the rear brake pads replaced under warranty at 20K.

The car is now at 94K and the rear pads have about 3-4MM left, I'm going to replace them soon.

When I bought the car at 80K. The front brake pads were replaced. I'm not sure how much material is left.

 

[Soapm]

What kind of pads are you buying? The dealership pads always last longer for me, and have minimum (if any) break dust on my wheels.

 

[Smartieab]

AC Delco Ceramics....1year. Wagner Quiet Pads 1 yr......Auto Zone Max 1 year.....Rotors are Aways warped too regardless. I am getting Auto Zones for future warranties. I actually had a good conversation today with a GM mechanic. I guess over the last 10+ years rotors have been getting thinner too. There is no such thing as turning a rotor anymore they just aren’t thick enough.

Duplicate posts merged. Sub.

 

[Omac]

Check you calipers sounds like they are sticking. I get over 50k on my pads which are ac delco ceramic. Very little brake dust and they stop excellent.

 

[Submariner409]

Do you drive with your left foot resting on the brake pedal ?

Cast gray iron rotors don't "warp".

https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedi..._Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

Always strictly follow pad and rotor break-in procedures.

https://ebcbrakes.com/ebc-technical-brake-articles/

 

[Omac]

Time to flush my brake fluid. Never been done.

 

[danog]

GM still have their dealers turn the rotors first. They need authorization to replace rotors.

Fallow SUBS advice the most importin part of the brake job is to following proper break in procedures.

The reason shops sell you new rotors instead of cleaning them up is they make more money and are covered by the new part warranty just like you want from Auto Zone.

 

[eric15178]

Has anyone ever noticed sometimes more than others the car seems to coast more than it should? Remember right after getting the car, thought it was odd, googled it and seen where other people had the same issue when the cars were new or close to it. Remember one comment saying that maybe it was a play for better gas mileage? But yeah, seems to require more brakes to stop than any other cars I've owned, maybe that's why you're eating them faster?

 

[Pete1996]

Has anyone ever noticed sometimes more than others the car seems to coast more than it should? Remember right after getting the car, thought it was odd, googled it and seen where other people had the same issue when the cars were new or close to it. Remember one comment saying that maybe it was a play for better gas mileage? But yeah, seems to require more brakes to stop than any other cars I've owned, maybe that's why you're eating them faster?

I have complained about this here and our 2006 DTS idled at about 900 RPM for
many years. After a very painful battery replacement it is down to around 750 which
seems to be more normal. I'm going from memory here but these are ballpark figures.
I have no idea why a battery replacement would be related to idle speed.

The car wanted to go 75 with the slightest downgrade and the high idle on the highway.

Had to ride the brake to keep it at 65 - 70 with the slightest downhill ride.

Still our pads lasted pretty good, but we have the dreaded pulsating brakes even
after a pad change without rotors.

 

[Omac]

Has anyone ever noticed sometimes more than others the car seems to coast more than it should? Remember right after getting the car, thought it was odd, googled it and seen where other people had the same issue when the cars were new or close to it. Remember one comment saying that maybe it was a play for better gas mileage? But yeah, seems to require more brakes to stop than any other cars I've owned, maybe that's why you're eating them faster?

No. Mine has been great since new.

 

[Omac]

I have complained about this here and our 2006 DTS idled at about 900 RPM for
many years. After a very painful battery replacement it is down to around 750 which
seems to be more normal. I'm going from memory here but these are ballpark figures.
I have no idea why a battery replacement would be related to idle speed.

The car wanted to go 75 with the slightest downgrade and the high idle on the highway.

Had to ride the brake to keep it at 65 - 70 with the slightest downhill ride.

Still our pads lasted pretty good, but we have the dreaded pulsating brakes even
after a pad change without rotors.

You cooked your pads. Read the article SUB linked to. The pads when overheated leave deposits on your rotors. Driving for years with a malfunctioning car causes other problems. Both pads and rotors need to be replaced at the same time now. Your pads are not usable with new rotors.

 

[Pete1996]

You cooked your pads. Read the article SUB linked to. The pads when overheated leave deposits on your rotors. Driving for years with a malfunctioning car causes other problems. Both pads and rotors need to be replaced at the same time now. Your pads are not usable with new rotors.

We brought it to our local mechanic and the dealer and they both checked it
out and said there is no idle speed adjustment as there was in the old days.

 

[eric15178]

I have complained about this here and our 2006 DTS idled at about 900 RPM for
many years. After a very painful battery replacement it is down to around 750 which
seems to be more normal. I'm going from memory here but these are ballpark figures.
I have no idea why a battery replacement would be related to idle speed.

The car wanted to go 75 with the slightest downgrade and the high idle on the highway.

Had to ride the brake to keep it at 65 - 70 with the slightest downhill ride.

Still our pads lasted pretty good, but we have the dreaded pulsating brakes even
after a pad change without rotors.

My idle is fine. Offhand it's in that 7-800 range. On the highway it's fine, there's only one spot of 2 lane highway I drive with steep hills right before coming into town and I'll let it go that 65 or so range and just tap them occasionally and hope the fuzzbuster serves me well. It's odd, but exiting the highway is where I feel it more. Like it just wants to coast more but the idle is fine. I've had it very randomly happen where it will idle high, but on restart it's fine. Think that's more just a once in a blue moon electronic glitch. I've also had a couple times where I couldn't roll my passenger window down from drivers side but could reach over and get it. Shut the car off and turn it back on and it's fine. Think maybe twice since I've had it, went to switch the satellite radio station and it would kick to fm, once I shut the car off and turned it back on all was fine. Maybe done these things under 5 times each in like 40k miles. Guess it is what is

Everytime I've done brakes, I've done rotors too. Usually by the time I'd notice and be able to get it done, the rotors are un turnable. According to dealer they're still plenty fine on here. I hope mine lasts for a long time. Had idea when that time comes to go slotted if they make them for this car just for a little better stopping power, and depending how much they cost over factory

 

[Soapm]

The car wanted to go 75 with the slightest downgrade and the high idle on the highway.

Had to ride the brake to keep it at 65 - 70 with the slightest downhill ride..

Normally, like in a 4 banger, it's the motor you're riding against that's holding you back. 75 is nothing for our V8 so you won't feel the holding back unless you drop it into a lower gear.

I know I'm not technical, but something like that.

 

[codewize]

AC Delco, or if you want an upgrade go to EBC or Powerstop. All of those will last a while.

Having said that, how many miles do you expect out of a set of pads?

 

[Soapm]

AC Delco, or if you want an upgrade go to EBC or Powerstop. All of those will last a while.

Having said that, how many miles do you expect out of a set of pads?

Do you know if either of those leave dust on your wheels?

I stick with dealer pads simply because of the dust the others leave on the wheels.

 

[Submariner409]

I run EBC slotted rotors and Redstuff ceramic pads. Strong, quiet, smooth as glass and (after dedicated 100 miles of break-in) very low dust.

Rotor and pad break-in is critical. Do it wrong and you create a continuing nightmare.

Read the Stoptech and EBC white papers.

 

[ffbuzz]

I also notice that my DTS coasts more than any other car I’ve owned. Even with the cruise control on the highway, when you go down a large hill, it just keeps going faster.Before you know it you’re doing 80mph. I also thought it was something they did to increase fuel efficiency.

 

[OO7DTS]

I just changed the rotors and pads on my 2007 DTS yesterday. The front pads I had changed at 60k and they had meat left. The rear pads and rotors were OEM originals with 98k on them, they were toast.

The difficult task was removing the rear caliber mounting bracket bolts & rear rotor locking torx screws, both were OEM original and were a beuch to get out. A little heat is very helpful and goes a long ways.

Many forget to check and lube the caliber slide pins to assure the caliper is free to move self adjust during pad wear. Lack of caliper movement will also create heat and promote rotor warping.