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2005 CTS 3.6L manual 2004 CTS-V
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to get rid of wheel hop, like everyone else does. I know DSS doesn't do just the bar upgrades anymore, but I can do the axle upgrade with CV joints on. From gforce or from dss I believe. My car in theory will be cammed and ported. Possibly a 75 shot. If I do the axles with a general 3/4 diff, am I still going to have problems? Even with no wheel hop, or minimized at least, is the difference going to be able to hold 450ish wheel? Basically, what I'm asking is, are the 1700 dollar axles going to work Vs dropping at least 4k on an 8.8.
 

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2005 CTS-V
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8,377 Posts
I want to get rid of wheel hop, like everyone else does. I know DSS doesn't do just the bar upgrades anymore, but I can do the axle upgrade with CV joints on. From gforce or from dss I believe. My car in theory will be cammed and ported. Possibly a 75 shot. If I do the axles with a general 3/4 diff, am I still going to have problems? Even with no wheel hop, or minimized at least, is the difference going to be able to hold 450ish wheel? Basically, what I'm asking is, are the 1700 dollar axles going to work Vs dropping at least 4k on an 8.8.
First of all I would take the DSS axles of the list. DSS has decided to produce symmetric (same size on both sides) axles sets only. This decision apparently flows from their position that wheel hop is a suspension issue and should be fixed with a suspension-related solution. On the other hand, the asymmetric axle solution is not the product of some do-it-yourself experimentation, it is rather the product of GM engineers. DSS may be correct in context of pure racing cars, but Pro Stock car builders spend $50k-100k on the rear suspension components (excluding axles) and can still experience wheel hop under some conditions.

I have the Hendrix Engineering axles sets and put down 407 RWHP (395 RWT). These axles do eliminate wheel hop on the street. My first gear use with full throttle is limited because the lack of traction on many street surfaces requires short shifting to 2nd to eliminate wheel spin. Once wheel hop is eliminated the stock differential can be reasonably reliable assuming is it not one the early versions.

Finally, if you are going to drag strip with big sticky tires you probably should be looking at more than an axle upgrade. When it comes to differential life, some wheel spin is your friend.
 

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2005 CTS 3.6L manual 2004 CTS-V
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate the reply! Hendrix does still sell the axles? That's awesome. I actually did run into that problem with DSS. They sold me the axles as anti wheel hop axles, but sent me the regular ones. When confronted they gave me that spiel about the axles. And wouldn't full refund me (they wanted a restock fee) FOR SENDING ME THE WRONG AXLES KNOWINGLY. my experience with DSS has lead me to believe the company is a bunch of shady crooks.
 

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2006 CTS-V
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529 Posts
If you can avoid using DSS axles and CV Joints I would.

My "1,000 HP axles" failed at stock power.

They then sent me the wrong CV joints at international shipping via UPS.

I had to wait until I went stateside to send them the incorrectly sent at my expense CV joints and again pay shipping and deposit.

Going with another option is a great idea.

G force will build axles for a 8.8 swap but they will require me to strip my axles, ship them international, charge me $1k plus and international shipping back, so not worth it for me.

This is 8.8 life in truth and what you don't read about.

I'm going to be ordering yet another set for the passenger side now and eating about $500 total for CV joints that hopefully have the needed engineering and heat treatment done by DSS.

Their driveshafts however are excellent, and the shaft that is optional on the 8.8 swap is fantastic.

If I was stateside none of the above would be more than a minor inconvenience at best. So bear that in mind with my above comments.

-Byron
 

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'05 CTS-V
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9,365 Posts
DSS sent me the wrong CV, too, even after having me take a measurement to (supposedly) ensure they were sending me the correct part. Rather than waiting for them to ship me the correct CV, I ended up shipping everything back to them (axle with bad CV + the wrong CV they sent me) to have them assemble it. So, yeah, not real impressed by DSS's attention to detail or customer service in general.

I have an 8.8 swap in mine. I did it out of a desire to have a quieter, more capable diff; I've never really launched the car, and have only gotten wheel hop a handful of times, so that wasn't my primary concern. I was on my 4th Getrag diff and it was just as noisy as the previous ones, so I wanted to fix that once and for all. Unfortunately, I spent shit-tons of money and didn't get what I wanted. I still have a whiny diff, even after having two different shops take a crack at rebuilding the 8.8 (with all new Ford gears both times). Maybe I had crappy shops to choose from and they did a poor job on the diff both times? I don't know. Just pointing out that the 8.8 isn't necessarily the cure-all.
 

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2006 CTS-V
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529 Posts
DSS sent me the wrong CV, too, even after having me take a measurement to (supposedly) ensure they were sending me the correct part. Rather than waiting for them to ship me the correct CV, I ended up shipping everything back to them (axle with bad CV + the wrong CV they sent me) to have them assemble it. So, yeah, not real impressed by DSS's attention to detail or customer service in general.

I have an 8.8 swap in mine. I did it out of a desire to have a quieter, more capable diff; I've never really launched the car, and have only gotten wheel hop a handful of times, so that wasn't my primary concern. I was on my 4th Getrag diff and it was just as noisy as the previous ones, so I wanted to fix that once and for all. Unfortunately, I spent shit-tons of money and didn't get what I wanted. I still have a whiny diff, even after having two different shops take a crack at rebuilding the 8.8 (with all new Ford gears both times). Maybe I had crappy shops to choose from and they did a poor job on the diff both times? I don't know. Just pointing out that the 8.8 isn't necessarily the cure-all.
Running the Ford racing oil plus additive really helped quiet my noisy ass 8.8.

Maybe a cheap thing to try? I used the higher viscosity stuff as they have 2 grades.

-Byron
 
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