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2005 Stealth Gray CTS-V, 2009 Black CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It took about 7 weeks for all parties involved to finish their respective portions of the project, but it finally got done. My rear wheels are finally widened and the rims are all chromed.

Without going to "extreme" lengths, I made multiple inquiries regarding the widest rim I could go in the rear without using a spacer, flares, nor (of course) having the tire(s) stick out from the body.

I can tell you right now, the EASIER solution and, perhaps, better solution, is to add flares and go from there. No others modifications are necessary. You can easily go almost as wide as you want to in the rear and you are given a lot of flexibility in the front as well. The concern, of course, is APPEARANCE/LOOKS, which just wasn't in the cards for me. As such, it was back to modifying the rear of the car and moving forward.

Timeless Customs, in Camarillo, is a really great place to have modifications done to your car. Jason is very knowledgable and works hard to get the project done right. He took my car for a day and performed many measurements. His conclusion? The widest rim one can go in the rear is probably going to be 10". 10.5" is POSSIBLE, but you'd probably have to remove/change the dust cover from the rear shocks and it will start to get a little tight back there. As such, I opted for 10" rims.

10" rims was the minimum I was going to go, for if I couldn't at least get that width, I wouldn't have embarked on this mission in the first place. Why 10"? Because that is the minimum rim width that will work with 295s. That's important because then I can run a set of 295/35 in the rear, with 255/40 in the front & not have to worry at all about stabilitrac/ride height. PS2s come in a nice matching set as well. :thumbsup:

As many of you already know, 10" is NOT necessarily an easy thing to get to work in the rear of our cars. "Some modification is required." How much? Jason spent about 30 hours on it. The two primary modifications are related to some minor "tubbing" work (see attached pic), as well as refabbing the trailing arm (see attached pic). Jason informed me, after multiple inquiries, that there is little, if any, risk in re-fabbing the trailing arm. All-in-all, not considering the rim modifications, you're looking at, say, ~$2k to mod the car to get this to work. In other words, this isn't for the weary... :)

The rims were taken to Wheel Concepts. These guys are the Cadillac of wheels. They didn't meet my expectations in terms of timeliness at all, but they did do an awfully good job chroming all 4 rims, as well as widening the rear rims to 10". I've loosely covered this process in a different thread, so I won't rehash it here, but they did an excellent job. The rims shown in the attached pics haven't been washed in over a week, but they still look very good. It seems to me that the chrome rims do a much better job not showing that damn brake dust. What's really interesting is that I now get more looks in my car than I EVER did before and it isn't even close. At stop lights, people look at my rims...very, very frequently. I highly recommend chroming the stock rims. :thumbsup: Actually, the Zoomers exhaust gets them to turn their head, then the rims catch their eyes. Very fun to drive.

One other thing---275s on a "correct" rim (width, that is) is LIKE NIGHT AND DAY. 275s on a 10" tire now handle the way it should. 275s, even in runflat form, STILL rolled over the stock 8.5" rim, leaving a very mushy and unconfident feeling for the driver. On a 10" rim, however, the entire "rolling" issue I had before is GONE. The car handles VASTLY better and powering out of turns is like night and day. For those of you running 275s on 8.5" rims, I strongly advise you going to at least a 9" rim--it makes a huge difference.

I'm very happy with how this turned out, but I just wish that GM changed a few things with the car from the factory. Then again, we all could say that about many other things on the V as well, but... :)
 

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'05 LS6 V Stealth Grey; '14 Z71 SLT Sierra 1500 Stealth Grey
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Um, you should clean you caliper. Its a little dirty on the side no one sees. The chrome does look really good on the stealth gray. I've been waiting to see a pic like that. Great job, nice write up.
 

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$2k to modify the car + the cost of the chroming and wheel widening, yet you can't afford a digital camera and a drop light?! :p :devilheh: Seriously, I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing in the first two pics.

I'd love to see a shot of the full car to get a real taste of the chrome wheels on the Stealth Grey. I've got the polished GM accessory wheels coming so your car will give me somewhat of an idea of how mine will look.

I'm curious what the backspacing is on the 10" wheels. I know there are other guys on the forum running 10s without modifications, so I'm assuming yours have a deeper backspacing that necessitated the mods. In another thread I asked a guy and he said his 10" wheels had a 7" backspacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
$2k to modify the car + the cost of the chroming and wheel widening, yet you can't afford a digital camera and a drop light?! :p :devilheh: Seriously, I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing in the first two pics.
:histeric:Shush you...

Apologies for the bad lighting in the first pic, but I only had my phone on me and Jason was closing his shop for the day. He actually shut the lights off, but I asked him to turn them back on for a few moments to get at least something... I didn't have time to take better pictures, but I will shortly. :thumbsup:

The first pic, albeit bad lighting, primarily shows the mini-tubbing he did to the rear of the car. The 2nd pic primarily shows the re-fabbed trailing arm, which is one of the key mods that need to be done/considered when widening rear rims on Vs. I honestly didn't think the 2nd pic was too bad, except for the little "dirty" caliper that was previously pointed out. :want:


I'd love to see a shot of the full car to get a real taste of the chrome wheels on the Stealth Grey. I've got the polished GM accessory wheels coming so your car will give me somewhat of an idea of how mine will look.
I'll try and get some better pics tomorrow at the V meet and post them here.

I'm curious what the backspacing is on the 10" wheels. I know there are other guys on the forum running 10s without modifications, so I'm assuming yours have a deeper backspacing that necessitated the mods. In another thread I asked a guy and he said his 10" wheels had a 7" backspacing.
The rear-end mods that Jason performed allow me (or anyone) to put the additional 1.5" rim width underneath the car, not the other way. There is no way that I'm aware of (& this includes the opinions of many other automotives experts, but someone out there might be smarter...) you can run 10" rims in the rear without these (or similar) mods, unless you wanted to push the additional 1.5" rim width "away" from the car, which means you have to do body work (i.e. flares) or have the tires stick out from the body. :suspect: You can push the rim out SOME, say, with a spacer/backspacing, but there just isn't physically enough room under there without running into the aforementioned issues/problems. The spacing on my rear rim is identical to stock/the front rim, except there is an additional 1.5" of rim riding underneath the car (wait--does that comment make any sense??? In this context, I think it does, but...:duck:)
 

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The 2nd pic primarily shows the re-fabbed trailing arm, which is one of the key mods that need to be done/considered when widening rear rims on Vs. I honestly didn't think the 2nd pic was too bad...
So the black tubular bar running vertically in the picture is the new trailing arm?

I'll try and get some better pics tomorrow at the V meet and post them here.
Cool, looking forward to it.

The rear-end mods that Jason performed allow me (or anyone) to put the additional 1.5" rim width underneath the car, not the other way. There is no way that I'm aware of (& this includes the opinions of many other automotives experts, but someone out there might be smarter...) you can run 10" rims in the rear without these (or similar) mods, unless you wanted to push the additional 1.5" rim width "away" from the car, which means you have to do body work (i.e. flares) or have the tires stick out from the body.
I'd be interested to see a picture from the rear kinda looking down along the side of the car to see how well your wheels tuck compared to others. I really haven't seen any good shots like that of other people's cars, I just know I've read of guys running 10" wheels. Pretty much all the shots I've seen are profile shots (which don't really show how the wheel/tire fits relative to the quarter panel) or shots from directly astern (which show the fat rubber, but again don't really show how the tire sits relative to the fender lip).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So the black tubular bar running vertically in the picture is the new trailing arm?
Aye. Look at yours or any stock one. It's considerably tighter/closer to the rear tire. I seem to recall a pic on this forum...I'll see if I can find one. This modded one allows for more room for a wider rim/tire.

I'd be interested to see a picture from the rear kinda looking down along the side of the car to see how well your wheels tuck compared to others. I really haven't seen any good shots like that of other people's cars, I just know I've read of guys running 10" wheels. Pretty much all the shots I've seen are profile shots (which don't really show how the wheel/tire fits relative to the quarter panel) or shots from directly astern (which show the fat rubber, but again don't really show how the tire sits relative to the fender lip).
Aye. I'll post a pic(s) tomorrow. The rim fits (near) identical to the stock rim/the front rim. The entire 1.5" is sitting "underneath" the car, if that makes any sense. In other words, I didn't "push" the rim "out" or away from the car. Clear as mud? :) I'll get some pics to show this tomorrow, after my car is clean. I can take some pics now, but I might get heckled, as my car isn't clean!! :D
 

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Damn right we'll heckle you if post a dirty pic Luna. Just joking. Can't wait to see the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BAH--what the heck... :thumbsup:

Here's 3 more pics, hopefully showing how the rim still sits just like the stock rim.

If any hecklers emerge with dirty car comments, prepare to deal with Heavymetals!! :thumbsup::)
 

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Looks great, mon. Need one from low and behind to see the meat. A la this one:

 

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Discussion Starter #11
These are "just" the 275s. I can, if desired, go to a 295, which should help improve traction... :lildevil:
 

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Yeah James, you're right, I guess I kinda forgot to cut the pic size down. Sowwy... can't edit it now.

At least it was nice and waxy when I took that one.



Edit: replaced the pic up on PhotoBucket. Now quityerbitchen! :lol:
 

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I really do NOT intend to flame Luna here - but just to point out that you CAN go to 9.5" rims with a .2" spacer and a very minor 10 minute session of "clearancing" on the trailing arm and/or wheel ( and I mean VERY MINOR). There is no actual contact except under heavy G loads without the clearance work, and after the <2 minutes with a dremel there was never any contact for me.

This allows a 275 with ease at stock ride height (and even when lowered).

Looks good Luna. Why didn't you go full hog and relocate the shocks going to an 11" rim with a full tub and 9" locker ;)

WW
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
...you CAN go to 9.5" rims with a .2" spacer and a very minor 10 minute session of "clearancing" on the trailing arm and/or wheel ( and I mean VERY MINOR). There is no actual contact except under heavy G loads without the clearance work, and after the <2 minutes with a dremel there was never any contact for me.
Agree. As I was explaining to a few guys at the V-meet on Sunday, you can widen the wheels and use a spacer. My understanding was that the widest most people were able to go was ~9.25" with the appropriate spacer & still get ~ 7 lug-nut turns, so 9.5" is news to me :confused:.

In any case, that's defintely an easier route to go. However, some people aren't too fond of using spacers (I'm not one of them, but I know some people don't) and, more importantly, the biggest tire you can get (recommended) with 9.25" rims is a 275 (285s with 9.5"). I wanted to, if desired, mount at least 295s in the rear (min rim width is ~10" for those tires), for those match-up really well with 255s in the front. Correct me if I'm wrong, but there's no reasonable way to do that unless one does what I did, they hung the tires outside the body, or they added flares and pushed the entire wheel hub out. The last 2 options above weren't in the cards for me though.

I agree with Heavymetals. If you're not going to run the same tire all the way around, you might as well put the biggest damn tire in the rear you can get! :thumbsup:


Looks good Luna. Why didn't you go full hog and relocate the shocks going to an 11" rim with a full tub and 9" locker ;)

WW
Because that biggest spread I wanted to go was 295/35 rear, with 255s/40 front. In theory, one could go 315/35 rear and 245/45 front, but that spread seemed too big for me once I really thought about it. The largest one can go in the front is ~255 without "decent" modifications. Hence, 295s in the rear became my goal. 315/35 rear 275/40 front would work near perfectly, but I didn't even want to consider what needed to be done in the front, as well as the additional hassle of increasing the challenge of modding the rear. I already blew my budget with the current setup. I can't imagine how the costs might have spiraled out of control if I tried to take it to the next level. Yes though, I did consider it strongly... :)
 

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This is what I'd like to do - feedback please...

Right now I'm wanting to go toyo R888 and use them for street too or maybe the sport cups - I only travel about 22 miles a day total to and from work and with rare rain.

But, the wheels are coming 18x10 & 18x9.5 from ccw and with a little more added torque now I'd like to go 285 or 295 rear and minimum of a 275 up front (going tomorrow to look at fender rolling)

I may have to go 30 or max 35 for clearance issues.

Looking at the overall diameter of my current:

GS-D3's

Front - 245/45/18

Overall diameter - 26.7
Section width - 9.6
Tread width - 7.8

Rear - 275/40/18

Overall diameter - 26.8
Section width - 10.9
Tread width - 9.4

Compared to the Toyo's R888

Front - 275/35/18

Overall diameter - 25.7
Overall width - 11.0

Rear - 295/30/18

Overall diameter - 25.1
Overall width - 11.8


Q: Will these Toyo's work without major fabbing?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Unless I'm missing something, which is definitely possible, I do NOT see how you could run 275/35 (front), with 295/30 (rear) without having stabilitrac issues. The ride height difference would concern me big time.

A 255/35 in the front would work rather well with 295/30 in the rear though. :thumbsup: Keep in mind, you will need to adjust/account for the speedo differences though. :)

If you want to go with 275s in the front, get (at least) a 10.5" rim for the rear and go with the following:

275/40 (front) and 315/35 (rear). The ride height is (basically) IDENTICAL to the 245/45 stock tires, so no speedo issues to even concern yourself with.
 

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275/40 (front) and 315/35 (rear). The ride height is (basically) IDENTICAL to the 245/45 stock tires, so no speedo issues to even concern yourself with.

Good point. What tires next? and what about the fab work needed for the rear with the 315's?

Trying to get Toyo's - 275/35 @ 25.7 overall and a 315/30 @ 25.5 --- .2 difference compared to my now .1? thoughts?
Thx,
Chef
 
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