[mbz560]

so...2002 sts f55, i think that's the number, anyway its the fancy one...

symtom, front wheels shake while applying brakes going downhill at freeway speeds.

so i took the tire off. pads are a little less that 1/2 inch. rotor surface ok. not the best but ok.

so this is what i discovered. i can actually move the rotors back and forth about an 1/8 of an inch...maybe more. it seems like the rotor hole is bigger that what it goes on. its not a snug/tight fit. so i put the tire back on and i grab the tire at 12 and 6 no movement but at 9 and 3 there's that back and forth movement again. feels like i need rotors that just fit snug/tight.

so what are your thoughts?

via past experience you guys know where to get parts....so where do i get rotors and/or bearings, also a camshaft position sensor, and valve cover gaskets. oh, and brake pads with the extra stuff/hardware/sensors

as always, thanks for the help

 

[DsharK]

If you have movement at 9 and 3 chances are good you are in need of tie rods. 12 and 6 movement would indicate wheel bearings.

 

[Submariner409]

www.rockauto.com

Take a hard look at this picture and you'll notice that the rotor stud holes are oversized: The rotors index on the hub center spigot, not the bolt holes.

Wheel/tire movement while push/pull at 9 and 3 is usually tie rod ends. Maybe lower suspension arm bushings.

The hub, rotor, and wheel mounting faces must be surgically clean - any runout is vibration.

If your car is an F55 (MRC) vehicle it would have been built on or after 01/15/02 and the RPO on the code sticker under the spare tire cover would be F55, not F45 (a CVRSS car). The picture is the LR brake on my 2002.5 F55 STS.

 

[Ranger]

If you have movement at 9 and 3 chances are good you are in need of tie rods. 12 and 6 movement would indicate wheel bearings.

:yeah:

 

[DsharK]

www.rockauto.com

Take a hard look at this picture and you'll notice that the rotor stud holes are oversized: The rotors index on the hub center spigot, not the bolt holes.

To Subs point; wheel/tire combination when tightened down with the lug nuts makes that a complete assembly and should always be tight with little to no play at all.

I just changed out my passenger side tie rod because of very similar symptoms you are having. On DE acceleration and coasting I was having front end shake between 60 and 40 MPH. This only occurred on slowing down and braking. I should have changed both sides at the same time - I am ordering the drivers side this weekend along with a blower motor.

Order QUALITY replacement parts - I tried to get away on the cheap and the part failed before the car even hit the road.