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Sal Collaziano said:
I'm guessing NOT the 5w30 that it came with. Right? They used that to get better gas mileage - from what I've heard.. So what do YOU put in your LT1?
MAN sal!!!!... You and your "can o' worms" topics today! :D

Run the 5-30 and a GOOD QUALITY filter. The filter is VERY important. Stay away from Fram! I use Delco (PF-52) filters. And switch to Mobil 1. I've seen the difference in sythetic and non synth engine on teardown, and now I'm a believer. And trust me, I was a big supporter of the "Synthetics are a waste of money" camp until not too long ago. Wish I had made the switch sooner. It's unbelievable how clean the insides of an engine that runs synth is on teardown!!!! :D
 

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Sal Collaziano said:
If I go to Jiffy Lube - will they use Fram? I wonder... I guess I'll go for the synthetic then... I always thought the Fram filters were supposed to be good...
I've heard too many stories of fram filters failing. I'll never go near them again.

I think the chains all use Wix filters... Could be wrong. At least the couple repair shops I worked at used Wix. They are quality filters.

Why not do them yourself? They are quick and easy. I have a pair of low profile plastic ramps from Walmart. Don't even have to jack the car up. :) Nice and easy and done in less than 15 minutes.
 

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"Don't use FRAM"?
Come on, be serious. There's nothing wrong with Fram filters but if you FEEL better using another brand, more power to you. One issue that DID pop up that (supposedly) concerned Fram filters (but really didn't), was a large number of import "knock-off" filters that were made to "look" like Fram filters, were found to have failed miserably and caused several engine failures. This is also true with a few other "popular" brands that are therefore obvious candidates for the "knock-off" crowd.
As for the oil, 5w-30 is fine, I prefer 10w-30 personally but again, there's so little actual difference between the two it boils down more to personal prefrence than anything. Synthetic vs. Dino is another HUGE debate subject too. I'll only say that I've torn down many high-mileage engines and inspected them too, and while Synthetic oil is generally superior in performance, it's not a major difference and it's not necessarily right for everyone. Oil change INTERVALS are FAR MORE important than what oil you use. There are many different types of "Synthetic" oils and they are not all the same. I have used Mobil 1 in my car and I have noticed an increase in leakage. So my intention is to go back to Dino next oil change.
 

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Here's a question for the experts: Don't you have to do a flush or something if you go from syn to dino? I heard somewhere that it's okay to go from dino to synthetic, but switching back you should flush. It all sounded like crap to me, but I thought I'd ask.

I'm very loyal to Mobil1, for what it's worth.
 

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2005 CTS-V, 1994 Infiniti Q45
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I have contemplated switching to synthetic on my Q, but this is what a infiniti master technician said about synthetic in a Qs engine

By the time it hits about 120k, the engine has already had enough wear that using synthetic at this time wont produce any results.......

What I may do the next time I get my oil changed (im already 120 miles overdue!! :shocked2: ), and this is advice per the same guy, is to add 1 qt of ATF to the mixture before the change...... Drive GENTLY until it gets to operating temp, and then IMMEDIATELY drain..... Apparently it does a good job of removing sludge and varnish, something to do with the cleaning agents in ATF....... But you must drive gently because it breaks down easier than oil....
 

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Really....... Id like to hear your insight on this...... is there any effective way of treating sludge and or varnish besides taking apart the engine and scraping it out......?
 

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06 STS-V, 94 Fleetwood TS
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Mobil 1, 10W30 no discussion.



This engine is quickly approaching 300,000 miles. I change the Mobil 1 at 7500 mile intervals. I have pulled the valve covers off and there is no evidence inside that this engine has ever been used.
 

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Since two discs have slipped out in my back, I don't do my own oil changes anymore, so when I was at "Great Canadian Oil Change," they told me that they had a couple of Fram filters "burst", maybe a few of them were not welded good or ??. I am going to try Mobil 1 this winter. I hope it doesn't leak because so far it has been bone dry. I will only drive it on extremely cold winter days so no salt sticks to it, and flush it well.

You can buy "oil flush" for an engine, why not use these? I don't think I would risk ATF in the crankcase. My buddy topped up his brake fluid with tranny fluid 10 years ago, and it swelled up all his brake lines, cost him $800.00 at midas to fix! If tranny fluid expands rubber in any way, avoid it! IMO.
 

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I been using mobil one myself but only on my van. I usually change it at every 5000-6000 miles. On my caddys i use regular oil because of the hi mlieage they already have. I feel it not worth the money for my abused motors, but I do change every 3000 miles or less at work. Mercedes only use mobil-1 0w40 for all there '98 or newer cars, and they go 10,000 miles between their next service.
 

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BILL, YOU SUCK, YOU SUCK, YOU SUCK!!! That engine is ENTIRELY too damn clean. ;)
There's always a backyard mechanic that will tell you about how they use this or that to flush the engine, trans, or whatever. Remember that cars, and engines ain't what they used to be. The use of the wrong lubricant, or fluid in many systems can, and will cause large amounts of damage. Use the "proper" fluids and you won't have a problem. The ATF thing is an OLD trick that CAN provide good results due to it's high detergent properties but I wouldn't suggest it's use across the boards for engine flushing in todays engines.
 

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Ok........ I was advised to have the oil changed every 90 days...... Well, I only drive about 500 miles/month, on average..... Any advantage to doing that???

(sorry Sal, im sort of hijacking your thread)
 

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elwesso said:
Heres a good thread about engine flush stuff........

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27060&highlight=sludge

Now...... Last oil change I used valvoline........ What makes mobil better than anything else???
From what I've heard local mechanics say about Valvoline (Texaco?) you may as well pour the old used oil back in your crankcase during an oilchange! I don't know if there is any truth to that, but supposedly it isn't the most "refined" for cleanliness. Maybe this is just a rumor because it appears darker than others when pouring. Everyone has their favorite, but for dino I use Penzoil, or QuakerState, and I've had no trouble.
 

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Katshot said:
BILL, YOU SUCK, YOU SUCK, YOU SUCK!!! That engine is ENTIRELY too damn clean. ;)
.


Maybe once I get some miles on it, it will gather a little dust.

Sal, What I did at 150,000 miles and what I would do with any car I buy that has an unknown history is to take it to a facility that has the Bilstein R-2000 engine flush system. This method cleans the engine really well as opposed to just throwing a can of solvent in there and knocking some stuff loose. Call the distributor... they can tell you where one is in your area.

Good Luck
 

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Katshot said:
BILL, YOU SUCK, YOU SUCK, YOU SUCK!!! That engine is ENTIRELY too damn clean. ;)
Which Bill? :D


Here's mine. Usually looks like this. :)



And Bill, must be nice to live outside the rust belt!!! Looks great!

Oh, and I run Mobil 1 10-30. I can get it in a 5 qt jug at walmart for $18.88, and better when on sale. :) (just to keep this post relevant ;) )
 
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