One obvious question: were you parked tight up against a curb? If so, just rocking the vehicle will allow you to shift out of park.
What is The Problem Here? Please Help!!! Stuck in Park Issue!!!!!
To make this situation short and help is needed, My car will not shift out of Park and TC light is on showing it is deactivated. I cannot active the TC either. I had to lift the the shift area to manually move my car into drive. What am I looking at here and what seems to be the problem?
:bighead:
:bighead: 1 - 19 of 19 Posts
No. I am park at my house. Nothing out of the ordinary. I had to remove the shift panel to manually shift out of park to drive but when I went back into park, the trouble continued, same issue. The traction control light is still on indicating that the system is off and I have no control of it. I don't know what to do here and the only left to do as I see necessary is to have it towed to the dealership. Now I got to get myself prepare to pay a huge bill for whatever the reason may be. The good thing is that my dealership is Lindsay Cadillac, so atleast I'll have a little peace of mind because they always know what they're doing over there. My car coverage just expired. Any ideas, suggestion, comments, because if I ever needed some, it's right now.
Awww, sorry to hear it. I'm sure Lindsay will fix you right up and treat you fairly. Wish I had something more to say but hopefully it won't be anything major. Good luck...and tell James that "RT" sent ya. :lol:
Oh, one more thing--any codes??
Oh, one more thing--any codes??
If you can get it out of park, why not drive to the dealership?
it could be a malfunction with your traction control or just a sensor. i had that problem on really cold days. i would start my car like normal, drive somewhere, turn my car off for like ten minutes, come back out start my car, my abs light, traction control, and parking brake light would stay on and not let me get out of park. i guess its cadillacs way of saying if your car isn't safe to drive it won't let you. i would have to restart my car a couple times, or let it warm up abit and it would turn the lights off and let me get into drive. it only happened to me like about 4 times last winter. i figure it was condensation freezing on a sensor somewhere or something. it was wierd it would always start easy in the morning when it was freezing, then after a ten minute ride or so if i shut my car off it would do that on restart.
i'm assuming weather isn;t the factor in your case.
press f1 and f6 on your consol with your key on, see if you get any codes.
i'm assuming weather isn;t the factor in your case.
press f1 and f6 on your consol with your key on, see if you get any codes.
More than likely your having a problem with the brake pedal position sensor. When you press down all the way on the brake pedal it sends the signal that unlocks the park lock at the shifter. When it does not get the signal it wont unlock. The other reason you could have this problem is if is not quite getting shifted all the way into park, that would require an adjustment of the shifter linkage from below the car. No need to have it towed to the dealership, it wont hurt it for you to manual push the unlock mechanism at the shifter, once you have the shifter cover off of the console and just drive it to them.
The Traction control is not in any way related to the shift problem though. If your switch is unhooked, or bad, in the golve compartment it would stay on all the time. Have you been working in the dash any, it seems odd that both problems would present themselves at the same time.
The Traction control is not in any way related to the shift problem though. If your switch is unhooked, or bad, in the golve compartment it would stay on all the time. Have you been working in the dash any, it seems odd that both problems would present themselves at the same time.
can you try and buy an extended warrenty or something along those lines from the dealership first then the next day or something take your car in and have them fix it? or would the $ just not be worth it.
sry i cant offer mechanical advice, that happened to me once before, i turned the car off and back on again, everything was fine.
Maybe i can get flip to get in touch with that Cadi engineer guy he just met...
sry i cant offer mechanical advice, that happened to me once before, i turned the car off and back on again, everything was fine.
Maybe i can get flip to get in touch with that Cadi engineer guy he just met...
I already call Onstar and they ran a on-board Diagnostic on my vehicle and told me multiple things which also includes brake sensors or something of that nature. So I push my brakes in and the brakes never lit up. So I checked my fuses again and in the engine bay the brake fuse or whatever it was was blown. I replaced it with the spare and check the brakes again and it blew again. So I went higher on the fuse using 20 instead of 15 and it blew that when I applied brakes. So I definitely have an issue here so I just have the tow truck take it in. Believe me I'm going to take a look at extended warranty tomorrow when James Call me. I appreciate the ideas and suggestions from you guys and RT I will let James know. Thanks.
By any chance you weren't fiddeling around in the trunk were you? It sounds like the brake light wiring is shorted.
Oh oh, I changed my Rear Bezel yesterday to a same color bezel, Do you think that had something to do with it?By any chance you weren't fiddeling around in the trunk were you? It sounds like the brake light wiring is shorted.
Bingo! Go back and undo your screwup. How lucky can you get. You just saved yourself from being the butt of hilarious laughter at the dealership.Oh oh, I changed my Rear Bezel yesterday to a same color bezel, Do you think that had something to do with it?
LOL, I'll check it out tomorrow. Your funny Binky the bear, Thanks a lot for everything:worship:Bingo! Go back and undo your screwup. How lucky can you get. You just saved yourself from being the butt of hilarious laughter at the dealership.
Got another question, What do this have to do with my Traction Control turning off and I have no control over it?
ABS and traction control get digital data from the braking system. It's all interconnected. If you haven't thoroughly fried something, when you clear the short it'll be fine. Good Luck! When a strange problem shows up the first thing you ask yourself is; what's the last thing I did just before everything went to the worms? I've heard a hundred times from DIYers; "I didn't think THAT would make any difference".
Yeah, I think koz hit the nail on the head.
It sounds like you pinched a wire when you replaced the applique on the rear.
Your traction light problem is likely related since it uses brake pedal inputs.
On a side note, don't ever use a higher rated fuse on a circuit even for "testing" purposes.
I had a car one time, the guy burned about 8 feet of body harness doing that. I can't remember what the bill was exactly, but I think it was around $1,200.
We can certainly look at it for you if you need a wire repair done, but it sounds like all you need to do is recheck your work and replace the fuse.
It sounds like you pinched a wire when you replaced the applique on the rear.
Your traction light problem is likely related since it uses brake pedal inputs.
On a side note, don't ever use a higher rated fuse on a circuit even for "testing" purposes.
I had a car one time, the guy burned about 8 feet of body harness doing that. I can't remember what the bill was exactly, but I think it was around $1,200.
We can certainly look at it for you if you need a wire repair done, but it sounds like all you need to do is recheck your work and replace the fuse.
Thanks for chiming in, Bill! :thumbsup:
Thanks for the heads up and tip. If I have any issues while checking this out, expect a call from me and possibly a drop off. Thanks :highfive:Yeah, I think koz hit the nail on the head.
It sounds like you pinched a wire when you replaced the applique on the rear.
Your traction light problem is likely related since it uses brake pedal inputs.
On a side note, don't ever use a higher rated fuse on a circuit even for "testing" purposes.
I had a car one time, the guy burned about 8 feet of body harness doing that. I can't remember what the bill was exactly, but I think it was around $1,200.
We can certainly look at it for you if you need a wire repair done, but it sounds like all you need to do is recheck your work and replace the fuse.
G
My car did this and I went in the shifter and got it out of park after that it never did it again, although my ABS and TC light came on often, Now I changes the brake sensor and all problems resolved...
Plus got it done for free, I traded Indy 500 ticket for the job to my mechanic...
Plus got it done for free, I traded Indy 500 ticket for the job to my mechanic...
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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