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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my 95 Seville STS about four or five years ago, and there is a whining coming from the engine, which sounds as if it is due to some part which should have been cleaned/replaced quite a while ago.
My question is this:
Aside from oil changes and air filters, what else should I replace on the northstar, five years after buying it from a dealership in tip-top shape.
Also how often should I change
Spark Plugs,
fuel injectors
What else

I know that I some of you dedicated cadillacforums members stay up way late, trying to help out the ignorant, such as myself. This Cadillac is much more intricate and higher maintenance than a Honda, and I'm not totally up to speed on everything about it. Any help that you can give me, I truly appreciate.
 

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02 STS
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This Cadillac is much more intricate and higher maintenance than a Honda, and I'm not totally up to speed on everything about it.
Actually, no it isn't. GM built this car to have minimal maintenance requirements. There are only two things that are important
1) Change the Oil as per the on board Oil life monitoring system and
2) Change the coolant every 3 - 4 years MINIMUM...

You will find that your Cadillac has several engineering features over your honda that will reduce the maintenance effort... Like... No timing belt... Timing chains last the life of the car... The spark plugs are good for 100,000 miles too.
 

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94 Seville; 95 FWB; 07 DTS
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657 Posts
apart from what was already mentioned above,
-serpentine belt,might be responsible for whining
-air filter
-clean throttle body
-plugs/wires @ 100000 miles
-there is a feature that allows you to check your tranny oil life
....that's all I can think of right now
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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I have always had big American cars. No timing belt to worry about; no bent valves from broken timing belt, etc. etc.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Fuel injectors should never need to be changed as regular maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am at around 150k on her, I'm sure that no one has ever changed the fuel injectors, nor the spark plugs. How do you clean the throttle body? There is a serious grind, when I start the car, and when the engine is turned off, before it completely stops running. Yet the audible (metal on metal it sounds like) grind is often quite prominent for the first second or two while I am turning the key, before the engine starts on her own. I tried holding the key for a shorter period, as it seems that the real loud grinding often happens right before the engine starts running on its own, Yet I did not turn the ignition for long enough ( I know, my cadillac has ran better) so the second time that I turned the key, there was an awfully loud grind before the engine started. This sounds like a big problem, so I will most likely create a new post for it, but do any of you engine guys have any ideas?
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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I think the recommended TB service is 30K. I clean mine every spring.

The grinding sound has me puzzled.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Ranger,
how do you go about cleaning your throttle body?
Something that I could perform? or is it better to hand this one over to a shop?
 

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1996 Deville (sold), 2000 Mustang GT
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I just used some carb cleaner and a tooth brush, just don't get carried away with the carb cleaner and start spraying massive amounts of it into the throttle body. Oh and back to your original question, itd be a real good idea to have the brakes bled.
 

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02 STS
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Back to your original question...

Why are you focused on the replacement of the fuel injectors? Replacement of the fuel injectors is not a part of normal preventative maintenance. These are ONLY replaced when they fail. Which in my experience is quite rare.

The grinding noise is probably an accessory... Any other issues? A/C OK?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No, Air Conditioner's just fine, it doesnt sound like the grinding noise is coming from the transmission besides, the noise is only audible right when I'm turning the ignition. My power steering has been making funny noises for a while, If it was an accessory problem, would the power steering pump feasibly grind like that when I turn the key?
I should be paying you guys.
I let my brother borrow my car for an afternoon a little while back, he put regular, rather than supreme in it, it started making funny noises maybe 20 minutes later, so he parked it, and let me deal with it, as the engine started sounding really lousy, sounded as if it was running with minimal oil (checked and it was full). Anyways, after filling her with supreme again, once the regular ran out, she sounded good again, but the start up has always been extremely scratchy, varying from just a little bit of grind noise, to an occasional yelp of metal on metal. I know it sounds bad, but I'm in College, and this is a pretty important method of transportation at the moment.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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If it only happens when starting, I would suspect a failing starter. Most likely the pinion drive clutch. Pull the starter and take it to a shop that rebuilds them. I had one done on my wifes '96 Bonneville for $20 while I waited. Sooner or later it is going to give out completely and fail to crank.
 

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2002 Cadillac Seville STS
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192 Posts
If you are going to change the drive belt out (about a 20 min job) I would HIGHLY recommend a Goodyear Gator back belt! This belt uses a "gator" skin like surface that gives MUCH better grip on the pulleys! A normal belt has like 6-8 straight lines |||||||| where as the gator back has diamond shaped pieces on it -_-_-_-_-_ What this does is eliminate any squealing due to slipping on the pulleys. You may want to also replace your tensioner as well if the belt does not solve the problem

I used to have an Oldsmobile Aurora (baby north star engine) and I suffered with the squealing belt at WOT (wide open throttle) for over a year. Dealer finally put the gator back belt on and I have never had a problem since.

Again the procedure uses a 1/2 in drive socket, you push down clockwise, until the belt comes a bit loose and then you simply remove the belt off of the pulleys. MAKE SURE you study how the belt is put on, so you know how to put it back on! There should be a picture under the hood showing how the belt goes on the pulleys as well. MAKE SURE the car is COLD. Even if it has been sitting for a couple hours, you will get a nice "warm" feeling on you hand that is not the most comfortable!

Mike
 
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