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I have a 93 Cadillac fleetwood with a 5.7. I am wanting to know what’s the most logical engine swap for this? Or is there much aftermarket support for these? My 5.7 is very tired with 340k miles.. thanks for the help!
What’s the most logical engine swap in a 93 Fleetwood?
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The most 'logical' is of course another of the same motor of that style fuel injection era - bound to be many sources for a reman, and fastest, easiest, cheapest top end and accessories changeover and install. Are you hunting instead for 'neatest way to upgrade to an LT-1 or even LS-' option for neater looks and more oomph? It'll help for the clearest early replies.
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Im new to Cadillacs and this is my first Lolo.I don’t mind replacing with the same if there is aftermarket support. I would just like something with more power to help compensate for added weight.
OK. I thought so. The improved fuel injection and reverse cooling are great improvments over your year. Start searching stuff like, ''94-'95 GM F- or B- or D-body OBD-I LT-1 in '93 Fleetwood' and suchlike. You'll likely need a complete part-out or just an unmolested Fleetwood JY car for the entire wiring harness and PCM system compared to your year. Heads-up I think yours has the same 4l 60E tranny - I think, but yours may need diff. parts or reprogramming - something to do with PWM (search it). It's obvious I've not done the swap, just figure someone's had to have done it by now. You might get lucky with early responses, but I'd get searching ahead of anything.
This is not an easy swap even to an LT-1. If you want an LT-1, get a 94-96 car. The issues above do not even touch on the problems you will have. I belonged for years to.the ImpalaSS forum which included all B and D bodied cars of 91-96. We know what we are talking about and I am very knowlegeable about B-D body LT-1's. You will be just fine with a fresh L05. Those engines are reliable as you have gound. easy to get parts for. Good luck.
Fellow ISSCA member/forum fella as well - hi there. Just a part of my replies is gentle heads-up connected w/ temptation to trade-up to a diff. motor. --> Enough <-- research and search and an LT- swap is perfectly doable in MANY rigs = Jags, pickups and even Mustangs and esp. Monte-ies. Just gotta cover the bases up front. Or you'll certainly be doing that along the way. That said, if that old 'last prod. sbc before LT-' has a real distributor in back, then I'd be looking into hopping things up to a carbed crate 383. All depends on whether the budget is $800, or, more like $5,000.
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Turns out it’s not as worn out as I thought, looks like a reman. To begin with the car ran bad and kept stalling and had bad lower intake manifold gaskets and I found egr ports were packed with hard carbon. So I put it back together right However kids messed with distributor… I marked location of dist before taking out but I can’t get the rotor to the same location. Now the car won’t start. Any help? Thank.
08 STS Nstar RWD, 21 Challenger RT M6 Shaker!, 68 LeMans convertible 6.6, 00 WS6 Trans Am 6-spd
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You are going to have to locate #1 cyl on TDC compression. Then install distributor with rotor pointing to #1 on distributor cap. That will get you close. You will probably need to align the oil pump driveshaft with the bottom of the distributor to get it all the way down. If the distributor does not sit flush with the intake, that is why.
With the ignition key off, cranking the engine over with a socket and ratchet will tell you when you are on the compression stroke. Either put your finger on the spark plug hole with the spark plug removed or have someone else do that. Then you should be able to align the timing marks.
Good luck. I am sure there are you tube videos that will help. Gotta love it when the kids help!
With the ignition key off, cranking the engine over with a socket and ratchet will tell you when you are on the compression stroke. Either put your finger on the spark plug hole with the spark plug removed or have someone else do that. Then you should be able to align the timing marks.
Good luck. I am sure there are you tube videos that will help. Gotta love it when the kids help!
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Sorry for wait. I got #1 on tdc on the comp stroke then put in dist. What is best way to line up oil pump? I can’t get the rotor to face cyl 1 when at tdc.
Complicated way: Feed dist. down and as it twists down the cam tooth just keep rotating it (the dist. shaft) over to the next tooth until it matches No. 1 on the cap when touching the oil pump slot. Then with flashlight and big screwdriver align the drive slot to the dist. shaft male end. Don't forget the paper intake hole gasket.
Said easier: Eyeball where the rotor is at No. 1 on the cap when installed and hold both together tight. Now look where that puts the shaft drive male end to the motor and match the pump slot to it.
Said easier: Eyeball where the rotor is at No. 1 on the cap when installed and hold both together tight. Now look where that puts the shaft drive male end to the motor and match the pump slot to it.
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Thanks for the help! Car runs now but worse than before and I have low oil pressure now… what could cause low oil pressure? Engine at tdc and rotor vary close to cyl 1 plug
I hope you appreciate the difficulty in returning highly helpful and effective recommendations with only symptoms like 'runs but worse than before'. Before what? When it was just a choppy idle? What is indicating low pressure? Idiot light? A gauge attached to the tee on the block? Did you triple check all the wiring and hoses to everything - especially the dist? Is idle and idle mixture adjusted correctly?
Most basic ? has to be whether you've adjusted the timing to base spec using a light. And before connecting everything back up to the dist. per whatever instructions you're following to set the timing in the first place.
Most basic ? has to be whether you've adjusted the timing to base spec using a light. And before connecting everything back up to the dist. per whatever instructions you're following to set the timing in the first place.
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Turns out I did not have the bolt that holds the dist down tight enough. Runs good now
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