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7.5 quarts!!!:holycrap: HOLY SH!T. This is why it pays to read the manual!!!!:helpless: I used Penzoil Platinum fully synthetic. I was going to do my financee's Explorer, and that takes 6 quarts! Oy vey. V
 

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:banghead: Just think! You will probably be burning some of that synthetic oil every time you drive since the N* seems to love oil consumption. Be sure to check the oil once a week. See *************** discussions and the archive if you are not up to date on the oil consumption discussions and WOT recommendations.
Good Luck and pedal down!
 

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Two oil changes, 14 quarts of oil @ 4.98 a quart!:annoyed: Two oil filters @ 5.98 each, a six pack and now two happy vehicles. WOT, here I come!!
 

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Keep in mind that $5/qt synthetic is not needed. Conventional dino oil at $1 - $1.50/qt is what is spec'd by the GM.
 

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VinnyT said:
The "regular" oil here is now $2.50 a quart, so I decided to spring for the synthetic.
Not at WalMart. You can get a 5 quart jug of dino oil, for $7 - $8.00. Unless you drive in extreme heat (above 100 degrees), or in extreme cold (below 0 degrees) constantly, there is zero benefit with synthetic oil. Save your money, and use conventional oil.

Don
 

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VinnyT said:
Two oil changes, 14 quarts of oil @ 4.98 a quart!:annoyed: Two oil filters @ 5.98 each, a six pack and now two happy vehicles. WOT, here I come!!
You can buy a 5 gallon jug of Mobil 1 at Wally World for $20 and change. That's a bit more than $4 a quart.
 

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Heck with all of that, I just wait for a coupon from one of the parts stores. I got a case (12qt) of valvoline for 69c a quart last oil change I did.
 

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VinnyT said:
7.5 quarts!!!:holycrap: HOLY SH!T. This is why it pays to read the manual!!!!:helpless: I used Penzoil Platinum fully synthetic. I was going to do my financee's Explorer, and that takes 6 quarts! Oy vey. V
You can use $8.00 a quart oil if you want, and it means nothing with a crappy filter. Best bang for your buck seems to be using a high-quality conventional oil at $1.xx a quart or whatever's on sale, and using a high-quality filter like a Purolator PureONE or Premium Plus, Wix, AC-Delco, or Mobil1. They flow better, are constructed better, and filter better than cheap filters, and almost anything is better than a Fram. Filters are inexpensive, and even a great one like a Purolator PureONE is still only a $5 or $6 part as opposed to a $3 one. Money well spent on filters, but I still don't see any benefits from synthetics.
 

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I dont see how you people above said that "synthetic does nothing unless severly cold or blazing hot like Arizona summers". That is entirely false. Conventional oils break down and leave sludge deposits after even 1,500 miles sometimes. Especially with a lot of WOT usage. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic in my 4.0 northstar. It uses a lot of it, or,erm, leaks it out; but it will do taht with any oil i put in it. It seems a lot smoother running in the cold mornings in PA.

Do what you want, but I would run synthetic in the northstars especially with the chains, they whip the **** out of oil.
 

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You are terribly misinformed.

The chains don't whip anything. Besides oil have an anti foaming agent in them. As for sludge, I stuck a bore scope in my cam cover at 100K, no sludge. I pulled the oil pan off my wifes '96 Bonneville to replace a gasket at 115K, no sludge.

Start ups below -20 or pulling a trailer across Death Valley is exactly where synthetics are superior to conventional oil. It sounds like you have fallen victim to the synthetic marketing gurus. Use it if you like, but know the facts. Synthetic oil is not superior for the type of driving you and I are doing. It is superior in very very frigid weather and will stand up to much higher tempuratures than conventional oil. Hotter than your engine will ever see (hopefully). Your engine will not out last mine. It is not cleaner than mine. It will not run better than mine. Your wallet however, will be a little lighter than mine.
 

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auroradude said:
I dont see how you people above said that "synthetic does nothing unless severly cold or blazing hot like Arizona summers". That is entirely false. Conventional oils break down and leave sludge deposits after even 1,500 miles sometimes. Especially with a lot of WOT usage. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic in my 4.0 northstar. It uses a lot of it, or,erm, leaks it out; but it will do taht with any oil i put in it. It seems a lot smoother running in the cold mornings in PA.

Do what you want, but I would run synthetic in the northstars especially with the chains, they whip the **** out of oil.
LOL... Please provide some evidence of your claims. If conventional oil breaks down and leaves sludge deposits, and if the chains whip the **** out of oil, how come nobody has come forth with any problems attributed to these issues??? There is no evidence to back up anything you're saying. :suspect:

Furthermore, you admit that the engine uses or leaks oil, and the only benefit you cited is smoother running on cold mornings. If there's no evidence of any problems with conventional motor oil, and if Cadillac does not recommend using synthetics except in the VVT engines, exactly how is this worth the extra $15-$30 per oil change? How are you getting a return on that investment? Maybe they haven't covered this in your economics class yet, but you can't believe what the marketing people tell you. Spend your money however you want, but if you want to make claims like that, at least show us the facts!
 

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Marketing does very little to influence my purchases. I have a Northstar mechanic that was part of the design crew for the Northstar project back in 1992 and 1993. He has a ton of cut away posters, books, training manuals and everything and they specifically explain sludge and stuff in there. They say to use regular convetional oil, but he explained some stuff about synthetics.

I am not an oil nerd, just know some things about them. Years ago all i knew that changing it was good and that all oils were the same. You can say that any "$1.99" a quart oil which is probably Type II is better than a hydrocracked type-III or Type-IV PAO based? Why i think not. There is a significant difference in quality between these three. The tons of detergent agents in Mobil 1 EP help a LOT. Viscosity in a fully synthetic engine oil (Mobil 1) doesnt shear down nearly as fast as conventional oil either. Some companies like Valvoline and Castrol say their synthetics are "full synthetics" when they are actually just a type III hydrocracked mineral base. The type IV PAO based formulas like Mobil 1 and other racing oils are the real deal.

Look at a Mobil 1 engine that has been run synthetic from the factory against that of a Pennzoil engine when both are tore down, you will see a difference past the 100k mile marker.
 

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Then how do you explain a 115K oil pan pulled and absolutely NO "SLUDGE AND STUFF" in the pan. "The proof is in the pudding" or lack there of. No one is trying to disway you in what you choose to use, but when we post something that is incorrect we can expect to be corrected. Been there, done that. All we are saying is that synthetic is not neccassary. Your engine will not live longer or run better with it. If it makes you feel better, by all means use it.
 

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No it is not necessary and does not exactly mean it will last longer. Just will run with more AW/EP (AntiWear / Extreme Protection) additive packages and just overall run cleaner I think.

You said that was a 3800 engine you pulled the oil pan in correct? 2 totally different engines here, but all in all same basis. So let me see. What kind of OCI's are we talking here? 3,000 mile religiously? No rediculously short trips in bone chilling weather? If its 95% highway miles that very well may be so. But the severe service most people dont realize that they do all the time is a different story. Im talking major I95 freeway everyday stop + go traffic jams in 90 degree weather in the summer, and 10 degree weather in the winter. That creeping along for 20 minutes places a lot of stress on engine oil, in a Northstar no less...as they run hot to begin with.

What does your filler hole look like on your Big Daddy N*? And does that thing have over 100k on the clock?
 

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I dunno about his, but the filler hole and drain plug on my 108k N* are remarkably clean. Oil changed per the oil life monitor with always conventional, mostly 10w-30; this is including the time both previous owners used the car.
 
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