You need a wait4me tune.
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A 360 degree filter is probably a better solution than a cone where the bottom is not allowing air.
Something like this:
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Something like this:
MAF element placement is important. usually it needs to be in the back with the plug inlet facing exactly up and down. Also on the filter thing. You need to PRESS the filter down into the hole half way. You have to move the wires out of the way and then it will press right down into the hole. That way it will get the air it needs. Using the 360 air ones like you posted did not make any change in power. So i just used the k&n one as it is able to be replaced at any auto shop without waiting for weeks for a replacement should that be an issue in the future.
The power will be gained on the TOP end, wot with the 4 inch setup and any horsepower over 580.. Anything before that, a 4 inch setup is NOT needed. I tried to explain that to everyone previously, But bigger must always be better right???
The only reason why im making them is because people keep asking for them. The car WILL learn the fueling and the sluggishness and fix it though, it just takes a while for it to store its different Coeficients...
The power will be gained on the TOP end, wot with the 4 inch setup and any horsepower over 580.. Anything before that, a 4 inch setup is NOT needed. I tried to explain that to everyone previously, But bigger must always be better right???
The only reason why im making them is because people keep asking for them. The car WILL learn the fueling and the sluggishness and fix it though, it just takes a while for it to store its different Coeficients...
Dammit Raz now I gotta do it
^ trust me. The difference is instant. You just gotta wiggle the front of the air tube and twist it out. Best thing is that if I need to go back to stock i can just throw the oem airbox on and nobody will even see that the duct is still gone ...I'll do a thread on it later when I get get the pics i took. I figured this out because coming from a jeep srt8 a huge mod was using flex tubing and literally connecting one of our brake ducts directly to the water drain duct on the oem air box. On average it bumped up 5-6hp just from that. It never caused any ill braking issues and you were guaranteed the coolest air possible. Now on the V you could also get even more hardcore and plug the hole that aims at the brake rotor and literally bloat the whole air intake with cool air but I didnt want too much debris getting sucked into the bay.
...I'll do a thread on it later when I get get the pics i took. I figured this out because coming from a jeep srt8 a huge mod was using flex tubing and literally connecting one of our brake ducts directly to the water drain duct on the oem air box. On average it bumped up 5-6hp just from that. It never caused any ill braking issues and you were guaranteed the coolest air possible. Now on the V you could also get even more hardcore and plug the hole that aims at the brake rotor and literally bloat the whole air intake with cool air but I didnt want too much debris getting sucked into the bay.Well here are pictures of Raz's mod:
Stock:
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Grab the end closest to the front bumper and give it a good yank up:
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Picture of it out:
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Stock:
Grab the end closest to the front bumper and give it a good yank up:
Picture of it out:
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I wouldn't worry about water hitting it because the top tip of the intake is just visible above the scoop line....
Here is my intake and tb...
The difference was large after taking out that duct scoop and has absolutely no difference in non-track braking ability. It is still slightly laggy at low rpm but I will give it a few days for the ecu to adjust. I'm more than sure it will pick it back up. If it doesn't I'll cap off the hole on the inner fender wall thats originally for the duct and that should help create some "oem" like pressurization of air. Like Rob mentioned, I also believe that this style of intake on this type of motor will literally suck up small animals if given the chance and needs the oppurtunity to get as much air as possible
Here is my intake and tb...
The difference was large after taking out that duct scoop and has absolutely no difference in non-track braking ability. It is still slightly laggy at low rpm but I will give it a few days for the ecu to adjust. I'm more than sure it will pick it back up. If it doesn't I'll cap off the hole on the inner fender wall thats originally for the duct and that should help create some "oem" like pressurization of air. Like Rob mentioned, I also believe that this style of intake on this type of motor will literally suck up small animals if given the chance and needs the oppurtunity to get as much air as possible
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