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1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
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Discussion Starter #1
2 Quick questions...

First, has anyone (owned/heard/heard of) the Volfenhag car audio brand? My friend's getting a couple of their 10s for his truck in a few days, so if no one has, I'll let you know how they sound.


Second, if I were to get 2 subs that each have 2ohm resistance, and 2 amps that are stable to 1 ohm, could I wire them like #2 or would I have to wire them like #1? I know it would prolly be better to have a single amp that can run at 1 ohm, but with the limited availibility of amps that are stable at 1ohm it would be cheaper to get 2.

Thanks - Dave
 

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First of all, yes I have heard of Volfenhag subs (usually painted a thick candy apple red, shallow aluminum cone, DVC, very pretty packaging?). The sub design is an open market one, which means that a large (usually Japanese) factory mass produces that subwoofer and then sells the product to a marketable stereo brand. That is why you will find that exact subwoofer for sale elewhere under a different name. As far as SQ goes, it is pretty much the same for all open market designs. They are of reputable consistency and will provide substantial performance for the price. You will probably be happy with them overall but if you were to enter in a competition they are better suited as flashy paperweights; being that they are not impressivily efficient, stable, or controlled under demanding loads.

Now as far a wiring. The path illustrated in diagram 2 will provide you with no advantage what so ever. In fact you risk ruining one or both of your amps. That configuration has one amp driving both subs but then another amp fighting to drive the same woofers as well. Your end result will be a distortred bass line, motorboating of the amps, or an overheating problem. To have mulitple amps drive a single subwoofer effectivily you need to buy amps that are RCA bridgeable, S-type linkabe, or are able to be run as one via signal processor.

Use your first diagram to wire your subs. Buy amps that are class D or monoblock rated and have an RMS equal to at least 1.25% that of the RMS on the woofers. Be shure the amps are 1 ohm stable and if the woofers are a DVC run them in parallel. I'm not shure where you are finding an affordable out of the box true 2 ohm subwoofer but this configuration will drop a 4 ohm subwoofers impeadence to a 2 ohm running resistence. - Good Luck
 

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1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
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Discussion Starter #4
Slick Black Cadillac said:
Use your first diagram to wire your subs. Buy amps that are class D or monoblock rated and have an RMS equal to at least 1.25% that of the RMS on the woofers. Be shure the amps are 1 ohm stable and if the woofers are a DVC run them in parallel. I'm not shure where you are finding an affordable out of the box true 2 ohm subwoofer but this configuration will drop a 4 ohm subwoofers impeadence to a 2 ohm running resistence. - Good Luck
Damn, this means I can't afford it. Ah well I should save money for my turbo-500 project anyway.
 
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