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2012 V Coupe Black Raven, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe Black Raven, 2010 CTS Premium Sedan
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I'm just curious but what would cause the rotors to warp in the first place?
 

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I have had the same thing 3 times with my 2012 Coup, 3 times the dealership change the pads and rotors, and a few months later it happens again.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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what brake package do you have? Do you have front vent tube for the brakes? do you have staggered tires? how long have you had the car?

warped rotors are normally the culprit, BUT I have had a bad tire or tires cause the same problem.
In my case, I first had the warped rotor cause it. When I took the rotor off to have them reface the rotors are warped so back they could not cut them.
Install New rotors and the problem goes away, ALMOST. It still has a small shimmy only under braking at speeds above 60 PMH. Plus I have a shimmy at 80 MPH with no brake application. I spend months doing balancing at tire dealer and they can not get rid of the 80 MPH vibration in the steering wheel and they blame the high-speed braking on the rotors, not the tires.
I go to another tire shop that has a Road-Force balancer. This machine will find a problem inside the tire or the wheel that has run out. Not just a balance machine. They found a bad tire.

My tire dealer would not help.
this story would go on for months but in the end.

The 60 MPH brake shimmy got worse and the shimmy at 70 MPH plus I got a nail in both front tires so I retired the tires early. Got a set on NEW Continental extremes with road force balance and now NO shimmy under braking at any speed and no high-speed shimmy.
Continental extreme DWS 06 will have a shimmy or thumping first thing in the day and it goes away in a few miles. all of my Conti's do that.

So rotate the tires front to back and see if the brake vibration or shimmy goes away. if it does take a hard look at your tires.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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You can also warp rotors if you tighten the lug nuts too tight. You all know how tight nuts cause lots of grief..
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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What about glazing on the pads/rotors?
 

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2009 CTS4 Premium & 2012 SRX4 Luxury
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If you're going through pads and rotors every couple of months, there's a problem. Try having the entire system bled with all new fluid, you may have air in the system and they could be dragging. If you really are just that hard on your brakes, might be time to consider an upgrade to J55 or V (Brembo) brakes.
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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You also need to bed the brakes properly. If you don't do this your brakes will never work right. The brake manufacturer should have directions on how to do this for the specific brake pads that you have. When installing it is also a good idea to insure you use brake clean on the rotor's stopping surface to remove any oil they may have placed on as a rust inhibitor. This oil can make the pads not work properly as well. Basically involves hard stops at different speeds to properly heat up the pads and make them work properly.
 

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what brake package do you have? Do you have front vent tube for the brakes? do you have staggered tires? how long have you had the car?

warped rotors are normally the culprit, BUT I have had a bad tire or tires cause the same problem.
In my case, I first had the warped rotor cause it. When I took the rotor off to have them reface the rotors are warped so back they could not cut them.
Install New rotors and the problem goes away, ALMOST. It still has a small shimmy only under braking at speeds above 60 PMH. Plus I have a shimmy at 80 MPH with no brake application. I spend months doing balancing at tire dealer and they can not get rid of the 80 MPH vibration in the steering wheel and they blame the high-speed braking on the rotors, not the tires.
I go to another tire shop that has a Road-Force balancer. This machine will find a problem inside the tire or the wheel that has run out. Not just a balance machine. They found a bad tire.

My tire dealer would not help.
this story would go on for months but in the end.

The 60 MPH brake shimmy got worse and the shimmy at 70 MPH plus I got a nail in both front tires so I retired the tires early. Got a set on NEW Continental extremes with road force balance and now NO shimmy under braking at any speed and no high-speed shimmy.
Continental extreme DWS 06 will have a shimmy or thumping first thing in the day and it goes away in a few miles. all of my Conti's do that.

So rotate the tires front to back and see if the brake vibration or shimmy goes away. if it does take a hard look at your tires.
HI
to answer your questions, its the performance coup, I have had the car 6 years, it has different size wheels and tires for the front and rear, so rotation is only side to side, Tires are in good shape, full brakes and rotors were changed at the dealer 20K miles ago. This happens mainly at high speed braking - like getting off the parkway exit ramp. because this is now the 4 time it had happened, Im wondering if its some type of design flaw in the caliper or rotor or combo to cause this vibration?
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 🙄
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A performance coupe can still have the smaller (but adequate IMO) JE5 brakes.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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HI
to answer your questions, its the performance coup, I have had the car 6 years, it has different size wheels and tires for the front and rear, so rotation is only side to side, Tires are in good shape, full brakes and rotors were changed at the dealer 20K miles ago. This happens mainly at high speed braking - like getting off the parkway exit ramp. because this is now the 4 time it had happened, Im wondering if its some type of design flaw in the caliper or rotor or combo to cause this vibration?
It sounds like the usual warped* rotor issue. Easy enough to check the rotors for runout. Unfortunately, putting new JE5 rotors on is just a temporary fix if you've already discovered the JE5 are inadequate for your purposes. J55 is not an expensive upgrade and may make sense if you need brake work anyway. The wear life and maintenance is much improved with J55.

* "warped" rotors are the result of hot pad material deposited unevenly on the rotor. This is due to brake under-capacity and overheating.
 
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