V2 rotor/caliper retrofit for V1 cars
241 - 260 of 286 Posts
Yep, mine did the same thing with stock pads and street tires until I started putting three lug nuts on backwards with just enough torque to set the rotor to the hub and then install the Torx screw before putting the wheel on. Since doing that I have never bent one with street pads. Now Cobalt Racing XR1 pads with A6 tires, different story.
Thanks for bringing that up, I had forgot about it.:thumbsup:
----------
AAIIIC what hub bearing are you using?
Updated my bolt pattern conversion drawing, accounting for the 5x120mm bolt pattern vice 5x4.75". I figured out how to shift PowerPoint (and everything else, for that matter) to metric, so now the drawing is more betterer. I also went ahead and made the V1 holes 14mm, since that's what I'm making them. (Well, 9/16", but close enough...)
They're SKF X-Tracker hubs. See here.
I thought they looked familiar. I know this guy that put the 5 lug version of the SKF X Tracker hubs on his V1. They are available at
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=shop.ProductList&SubGroup=1970
Ask for Paul and you will get great service.
For those who may want to do this conversion starting with a 5 lug hub could you post up the drawing of your V2 rotor and overlay with 5x4.75 bolt hole pattern with 1/2" holes and all 5 holes not overlapping any of the 5/8 (16mm V2) holes.
I understand Cadillac will offer a 2pc front rotor on the 2013 CTSV, more options are great for everyone.
Thanks
Bill
Attachments
Well I got what I'm guessing maybe a stupid question....but anyhow here it is :hide: I noticed that in the above pic four of the studs line up perfectly. My question is can you remove the studs at the ten and two o'clock position and just use the remaining four studs alone?Round hand file + sweat + Dremel = Success!Not particularly pretty, but I think it'll do. The elongated, messed up hole is at 10 o'clock.
![]()
eeking:
Quick follow up on the conversion for some of the newer members: If you want to run 5 lug V2 rotors and OEM V2 Brembo 6 piston calipers and have greater wheel selection, for street use, here is another option.
Use hubs designed for pre-09 C5 or C6 Corvette. The units are a direct bolt-on and they are ABS compatable.
If you are a "track rat", the SKF BAR-5049C hub is quite popular for it's durability. Expensive, but worth it in the long run.:yup: This hub design comes on the ZR1 Corvette and the second generation CTSV. The 09 and newer use a different ABS system, have larger axles with more splines vs the pre-09. The SKF BAR-5049C hub was released as an aftermarket direct fit upgrade for the Corvette including the ZO6 for all the reasons stated in AAIIIC's research link and a few more.
The BAR-5049C has a 5x4.75 bolt hole pattern. The CTSV2 rotor has a 5x120 bolt hole pattern. The difference is shown in the attached pictures. You are looking at a V2 OEM rotor machined to fit the V1 hub diameter. The rotor is sitting on an SKF BAR-5049C hub with ARP wheel studs. The next pictures shows a hub-centric spacers with 5x4.75 bolt hole pattern under the same V2 rotor. As stated there is a difference, but it is minimal. I am not suggesting or recomending anyone do this.
Hope this helps.:cheers:
One more thought, for track application I like the GM Racing studs because thay are longer and the diameter is thicker giving a tighter tolerance. If you track the OEM V2 rotors with aggressive track pads and road racing slicks the rotors will move on the hub.
Use hubs designed for pre-09 C5 or C6 Corvette. The units are a direct bolt-on and they are ABS compatable.
If you are a "track rat", the SKF BAR-5049C hub is quite popular for it's durability. Expensive, but worth it in the long run.:yup: This hub design comes on the ZR1 Corvette and the second generation CTSV. The 09 and newer use a different ABS system, have larger axles with more splines vs the pre-09. The SKF BAR-5049C hub was released as an aftermarket direct fit upgrade for the Corvette including the ZO6 for all the reasons stated in AAIIIC's research link and a few more.
The BAR-5049C has a 5x4.75 bolt hole pattern. The CTSV2 rotor has a 5x120 bolt hole pattern. The difference is shown in the attached pictures. You are looking at a V2 OEM rotor machined to fit the V1 hub diameter. The rotor is sitting on an SKF BAR-5049C hub with ARP wheel studs. The next pictures shows a hub-centric spacers with 5x4.75 bolt hole pattern under the same V2 rotor. As stated there is a difference, but it is minimal. I am not suggesting or recomending anyone do this.
Hope this helps.:cheers:
One more thought, for track application I like the GM Racing studs because thay are longer and the diameter is thicker giving a tighter tolerance. If you track the OEM V2 rotors with aggressive track pads and road racing slicks the rotors will move on the hub.
Attachments
For the newer members... what wheels does one use with the 5 -Lug conversion?
OK, Just to get this right. V2-V1 Buy V2 rotors and redrill HubCenter & Studs, Buy V2 Yellow Front Calipers & bolts, Redrill Mounting holes in Upright, Buy V2 Rear calipers (Yellow) and mount directly as replacement without changing rotor??? Does this pretty much cover it? This is Waaayyy too easy if true. It makes this an affordable upgrade without all the Racing stuff. Makes a street car much better on a Track day and still a great DD. Someone Please acknowledge!!
----------
Oh Yeah, These fit with OE 18" wheels,right?????????
----------
Oh Yeah, These fit with OE 18" wheels,right?????????
They should fit over stock wheels fine, team dynamics wheels I have not heard yet but if the v2 calipers are any wider than the v1 then I would doubt it without a spacer up front as they barely clear the v1 calipers.
AAIIIC - Are you going to re-drill a 2nd one and give it a go or starting to have some doubts? Luke from Lindsay had posted a new rotor provider for 2 piece fronts for both v1 and v2 perhaps he could cook something up for people doing the v2 caliper on the v1 and not wanting to spend a grand on rotors.
Yes, that is correct. It's still not exactly cheap, but the OEM rotors are a heckuva lot cheaper than the 2-piece aftermarket ones.
Somewhere in this thread or one of the other threads I'm pretty sure there are pics with these mounted with OEM wheels, and I know there are pics with the TD wheels (I made sure my TD wheels would fit before I committed to this course of action).
I will definitely be drilling the 2nd rotor, might even get to it this weekend. I will most likely also end up with a set of the RB rings to go on the V1 RB hats I've already got. My V1 rotor rings are pretty much toast, so they were due for replacement anyway.
It's me again!! Collecting pieces and need to know if my existing braided hoses will work with the V2 calipers? Thanks Guys, You are the best source for info(good and Bad) out there. However the good always outweighs the bad.
So, a month and a half later
I wandered out to the garage to do some clean-up and on a whim pulled out the second rotor. This time I used a 1/2" Unibit that I remembered I had and found that worked quite a bit better on the two holes that overlap the original V2 holes. I also ended up with a tighter fit for the studs in the holes, as I didn't use the bigger 9/16" bit - I just used the 1/2" Unibit, then did some additional clearancing as necessary with the Dremel and a round file.On the first overlapping hole I tried to go a bit too fast, and the Unibit did catch the edge and try to twist out. However, it still got me pretty close to a completed hole - better than I had managed on rotor #1 when I screwed up the second overlapping hole. So, I figured it couldn't hurt to try the Unibit again on the second overlapping hole on rotor #2, and I found that if I went a bit slower and let the bit do the work it didn't try to jump out. With that bit of knowledge I went back at the first hole again and was able to drill it the rest of the way.
The car is off being tuned right now, so no complete install yet. I still need to drill the front knuckles for the bigger caliper mounting bolts, then I'll be good to go.
They should work fine. I don't plan on swapping mine out.
Looks about like the last one I did.
Once I get the car back from the tuner and have a chance to get everything installed I'll post up some pics.
Once I get the car back from the tuner and have a chance to get everything installed I'll post up some pics.
After being away from my car for a few months, I'll finally be picking it up tomorrow. I plan to install the V2 brakes this weekend using the rotors I re-drilled. In the near future I'll pick up some RB rotor rings for my existing rotor hats for track use.
It's just the mounting holes for the caliper, so there's really nothing to show.
Is it enlarging the hole or redrilling the positions? Is it necessary to redrill both holes or only one? I'm just trying to get an idea. Maybe maching up a v2 rotor would help.
241 - 260 of 286 Posts
