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07 CTS-V
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All right, it's been a while in the making but I have finally gotten everything installed. For reference, my vehicle is a 2004 CTS-V, with a factory replacement LS6 (motor was replaced before I purchased under warranty). The only modifications prior top installing the E-Force are .650" valve springs, LS7 lifters, and hardened push rod's.

First off, I want to thank Mark for all of his assistance here behind the scenes...his suggestions made things MUCH easier! Thanks man!

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...thread-open-all-e-force-builds-questions.html

This is the thread where I procured the majority of the items for the installation:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1586518-so-i-got-delivery-today-2.html

The reservoir/expansion tank did not work as I had planned, and am waiting on another one to complete the build.

The first thing I had to do was mount the front mounted HEX and pump, the pump being much larger than I had anticipated...so much that I had to get creative with the placement.

With the bumper cover and crash bar removed, I had to remove the inside tabs and captured nuts:






I cut a piece of steel "L" channel to span the lower retaining bolts, with two holes drilled to hang the HEX from:











The P/S cooler bracket was trimmed and relocated to the top stud. The hoses reach without being extended, they just have to be loosened and readjusted.




This HEX seems as if it made to the exact dimensions of our lower grille opening, it fits as if it was designed for this exact purpose!




The HEX pump was pretty big, and required a bit of thinking to find a place for it. I found that there was just barely enough room for it immediately behind the bumper cover, immediately to the inside of the fog lamp. I cut some sheet metal (sourced from a rolling filing cabinet lid, haha) and removed the PCM box. I put the trimmed metal over the studs, replaced the PCM box and tightened it down...which formed the bracket that I needed to the PCM box!






 

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Discussion Starter #2
I had to fab some lower supports for the HEX...I used "X" braces from a set of old utility shelves that never made it to the scrap man. You can see the P/S cooler and horns in the second pic...the horn bracket had to be flattened straight and was attached to the top HEX retaining bolt.







HEX and pump were plumbed together using steel fittings...street 45* fittings and a closed nipple. I had to separate the motor from the pump housing, assemble the HEX and pump rotor housing using the steel fittings, and then reinstall the motor after the HEX was bolted to the car. PITA...but it worked!







How'd it fit? Like a condom...but it's in there! Hahaha!





There were a few things that I wanted to change, and a few things that I had to change while I was installing the E-Force. I had an old coolant crossover vent from another LS motor (can't remember which one) and I removed the rear plugs and installed this vent. There are quite a few who advocate installing this second steam vent as they feel that it contributes to the #7 and #8 pistons/cylinder problems. It makes sense, if steam cannot get vented from the rear of the motor, it WILL cause hot spots and further damage.

Also, since I have and LS6, I broke the oil sender as there is not enough of a relief in the E-Force runner. I got a brass 3/8" street 90* from Home Depot...and it didn't fit the block. The brass fitting was 3/8" NPT, and the block is standard thread. I got a 5/8" tap and die and cut new threads on the brass 90* to fit the block. The oil sender fit fine, as it seals using the gasket.

The rear crossover and oil sender:



Plumbed into the surge tank line:






Oil sender:







For the fuel fittings, I followed Mark's lead and used his specified parts. Only difference, I removed the center hold down bolt for the wiper module, found a longer bolt, and reinstalled the longer bolt into the sleeve. I then made a bracket (out of the same "X" bracing as the lower HEX brackets) and mounted the "Y" block since this was where the factory nylon fuel feed line naturally wound up.










 

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Discussion Starter #3
I decided not to use the supplied Ford/Bosch TMAP unit. I am running a HP Tuners 2 BAR OS so I got the Cobalt 2 BAR MAP sensor. It doesn't have to be scaled (unlike the TMAP), and cost me less than the Ford TMAP connector. I made a hold down from the same "X" bracing (can you tell how glad I am that I never throw ANYTHING away? hahah) to keep the GM 2 BAR MAP sensor in place.











Since I did not use the TMAP, I needed another IAT sensor. I used the 1/8" boost gauge tap for this. This places the IAT immediately after the intercooler, directly in the air stream unlike the Edelbrock TMAP design. I had a few Omega thermistors on hand from when I installed one in my old Maggie...so I got a short length of 3/16" steel brake line and trimmed it down. I soldered the thermistor to 20 gauge wire, heat wrapped it, and ran it through the 3/16" brake line. On the external side of the home made IAT, I epoxied the tube closed and soldered a 2 wire connector (sourced from and old ABS circuit). Note that when you solder the thermistor, you have to keep it from getting overheated....hence the sponge. LOL!











After the E-Force was installed, I changed the intercooler fittings so that the 90* fittings were both on the passenger side, and both straight fittings were on the drivers side. I used 5/8" aluminum fuel line and a ratchet bender to get the 90* radius around the E-Force. I used the "FrozenBoost.com" remote inline filler in the (top) return line...which puts it at the highest point in order to bleed the air from the system. The expansion tank I had in mind did not work out, so I have another one on order.

I wrapped all of the aluminum tubing in 3/8"x5/8" Armaflex insulation.











 

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Discussion Starter #4
Continuing with the build...one thing I forgot to take pics of is the EVAP line. Since the EVAP connection is on the bottom of the inlet snout, I needed a 90* fitting. Turns out a '99+ Silverado EVAP line was the perfect fit...had a quick connect fitting and the nylon hose was perfectly molded to follow the exact angles of the E-Force manifold. I'll try to get a better pic of this line, maybe take the one off of my truck for documentation. The EVAP line is in Red, the PCV breather line is the Green arrow:





The tensioner bracket requires that you remove the passenger side harness retainer (as the bolt hole must be used for the bracket). I straightened the harness and ran it under the bracket. Once installed, there is a two wire connector that needs to be re-routed under the other harness' (Red circle) as it touched the tensioner.







For the PCV system, I went cheap...shocker, huh? LOL! Anyhow, I used the best that Harbor Freight had to offer instead of the $120+ catch can. I epoxied the bottom vent closed so it wouldn't leak, and then temporarily mounted it to the drivers shock tower. I will make a bracket for it after I get the new expansion tank for the HEX system. Say what you will...the damn thing works! After about 200 miles I have a little oil puddled in the trap.







For the PCV breather, I drilled a hole in the 4" aluminum intake tubing and installed a power brake booster check valve and grommet. From the check valve, hose connects to the breather vent on the passenger head. I did not want crankcase vapors being sucked through the intake, so this was a low buck method for maintaining correct flow through the system.







The underside of the hood had to be modified before it would close. I used putty to mark the area's that required clearance, and trimmed as necessary. Note the I have since installed the RevShift trans insert which raised the rear of the trans substantially (since the mount was collapsed)...so I may have trimmed more than required.





For power to the HEX pump, I wired the ground straight to the core support flange behind the driver headlamp since there was a threaded hole there. I ran the power line to the under hood fuse center and used the mini fuse tap (in a vacant switched fuse) with a 3 Amp fuse as control voltage to the relay. The 20 Amp fuse holder is secured to the stud for B+ to the pump side of the relay.











Forgot the belt...I have the 3.25" pulley but need to go bigger to get the boost down.





In addition to all of this, I installed a DW 300 fuel pump in the tank. I will be updating this thread as the new parts come in!
 

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2016 ATS Premium 6-spd MT
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Vids? Dyno results?

:bouncy:
 

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07 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #6
Vids? Dyno results?

:bouncy:
My daughter has my GoPro at the moment...I'll get it back this weekend and throw some vids up. This thing is LOUD! Comparatively loud under normal driving to the Maggie at WOT...and the TVS was supposedly quieter...nope!

I need to get a bigger pulley before I mess with it too much...I have 6 lbs of boost @1600 RPM and 10 lbs @ 2800 RPM with the 3.25" pulley installed (which is supposed to be good for only 10 PSI). I haven't gone over 3k RPM as of yet, and don't think I will until I have the larger pulley installed.

I also have an issue with surging (possibly intermittent miss) in the low RPM/high load driving conditions. I have messed with the timing to no end but still cannot get it right. Beginning to think I may have a weak coil or questionable plug wire. Will have to get that diagnosed before I go any further.

Oh, one last thing...IAT's are ridiculously low. I know it's winter, but with the Maggie under normal driving I would see 100* IAT's even with sub 40* ambient temps (b/c the boost actuator recycles the charged/heated air after the rotors back into the inlet). I am seeing average of 20* over ambient temps! I thought this was wrong, so I opened the hood and felt the top lid and it was ice cold!
 

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2004 CTS-V Raven, StainlessWorks header back exhaust
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God this build sounds like it would be awesome.

Surging is a bitch. I had it on my old car when sensors would get dirty, or if the bypass valve wasn't working right, or the waste gate... My last car was turbod though. You can hunt down some of that stuff if you have a tuning program to help you see maf, map, or wideband O2 sensor readings.

Edit reread that you are using a cobalt 2 bar map and HP tuners. Sweet, I would recommend cleaning the map sensor since that was a huge reason why my car would act up ever. Those sensors are real finicky and like a woman, once you piss it off, you gotta clean er up and make nice. I had to spray off my MAF and MAP sensors after it rained every time or I would get misfires at wot and surging down low. After they all got cleaned, it ran fine. I'm not discounting that the surging could be something else but give a $5 can of maf/map spray a try.

Are you throwing any codes with the surging?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks!

Yeah, I have modified the ETC and timing tables and it does feel MUCH better...but its still not 100%. Boost is instantaneous...6 PSI at 1600 RPM in an instant. I have had problems with the supercharger trying to suck the throttle closed at very low throttle input...PITA...but it is what it is. I think the vacuum bypass is adjustable, so I will look into slowing the transition into boost slightly. I will likely be calling Edelbrock on Monday and see if they can assist.

No DTC's at the moment...the P0068 has been disabled completely for the time being until I have everything dialed in.
 

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When I would have terrible bucking issues at WOT it wouldn't throw a code. Next time you data log it, look at the MAF hz that was my only indication sometimes. If they are fairly constant you're probably ok, but if they bounce up and down like a set of boobies at a strip club your MAF is dirty. Also check the MAP sensors, the little rubber o ring things on them sometimes get messed up if you breath on them during install. Happened to me, it created a boost leak right next to the sensor and it took me ages to track it down. Check on the HPtuenrs forums about your throttle sensor code. That may be an indicator as to where you should start looking. I am not familiar enough with these cars yet to draw a conclusion as far as that goes but if your car doesn't know how far your throttle body is open in relation to the right foot, could cause some issues. Guys over at the HPtuner forums are really good at helping people out during the tuning stages of a build, which to me are the most difficult.
 

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The more driving/logging I do, it seems like a possibly weak coil or injector (which are new). Since the only new thing here in the equation is the injectors, that's what i'm leaning towards at the moment.
 

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It could be worse... Coils and plugs aren't to horrible to get to. Better to address it before it starts a new problem.
 

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Awesome, awesome write up. I always wondered what a E-Force would be like on a V1. Subscribed for sure.
 

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Awesome build. I should finish up my sons car this weekend and start my own eforce build. I will likely pm you to pick your brain a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Awesome build. I should finish up my sons car this weekend and start my own eforce build. I will likely pm you to pick your brain a bit.
Sure man, no problem! Mark (Cutter05) may have answers that I do not since he installed a LS3 before his E Force, and I retained the LS6. What are your plans for the HEX system? Are you going 2 BAR or staying MAF?

I found that most of my problem was too much boost. I ordered a bigger pulley for less boost and found that I had the 3.00" pulley installed instead of the 3.25". It looks as if the 3.00" will be good for probably 12 lbs of boost on my current setup which is way too much.

After the pulley change and expansion tank installation, it runs really well! No more hesitation issue's! Now that I can get some timing back into the tune the car feels stronger than it did with the Maggie even with only 6 lbs of boost. You can really feel the difference from about 4k on up, makes me realize how undersized the Maggie 112 really is for our application. Also, IAT's are running between 57* - 63* with the ambient temps around 45*.
 

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Sure man, no problem! Mark (Cutter05) may have answers that I do not since he installed a LS3 before his E Force, and I retained the LS6. What are your plans for the HEX system? Are you going 2 BAR or staying MAF?

I found that most of my problem was too much boost. I ordered a bigger pulley for less boost and found that I had the 3.00" pulley installed instead of the 3.25". It looks as if the 3.00" will be good for probably 12 lbs of boost on my current setup which is way too much.

After the pulley change and expansion tank installation, it runs really well! No more hesitation issue's! Now that I can get some timing back into the tune the car feels stronger than it did with the Maggie even with only 6 lbs of boost. You can really feel the difference from about 4k on up, makes me realize how undersized the Maggie 112 really is for our application. Also, IAT's are running between 57* - 63* with the ambient temps around 45*.
I will be moving to a super chiller once I complete the initial install and tune so no major work to upgrade the HEX.

My initial inclination is to stay MAF but the final decision will be made after I get initial MAF dyno tune and talk with my tuner.

After working on my sons fbody I am seriously considering biting the bullet and finding an LSA short block and doing the engine build outside the car and then doing a motor swap. I'm just too damn old and impatient to do all of the gymnastics I did on his engine build.

I am shooting for about 10lbs of boost but that is really a nebulous number in my mind. Better engine flow lowers boost readings but improves performance so... You get my point.

It has been killing me to have all of these parts laying around gathering dust but my sons car has been inoperable for longer than it has worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I will be moving to a super chiller once I complete the initial install and tune so no major work to upgrade the HEX.

My initial inclination is to stay MAF but the final decision will be made after I get initial MAF dyno tune and talk with my tuner.

After working on my sons fbody I am seriously considering biting the bullet and finding an LSA short block and doing the engine build outside the car and then doing a motor swap. I'm just too damn old and impatient to do all of the gymnastics I did on his engine build.

I am shooting for about 10lbs of boost but that is really a nebulous number in my mind. Better engine flow lowers boost readings but improves performance so... You get my point.

It has been killing me to have all of these parts laying around gathering dust but my sons car has been inoperable for longer than it has worked.
Yeah, I know exactly what you mean. This build was a PITA and I have my own shop complete with lift and every tool that one would ever need (from my dealership days long ago). My problem was all the little crap I had to run out looking for (the tap and die set to re-thread the oil pressure sensor for example). It's done now though, and you'll have less issue's than I did.

I was thinking about the killer chiller as well, but will likely wait until summer gets here and I see what IAT's I have to make a final decision. They're much lower than they ever were with the Maggie. I don't know if that's in part to the more efficient intercoolers inside the E Force, or the huge dual pass HEX...or the combination of both of them. Guess we'll see this summer.

I would at a minimum try to install the rear steam vent as I did, they make several aftermarket kits for this however it's pretty easy using another front steam vent tube assembly and piping it into the existing line.
 

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It is funny that you mention the coolant crossover pipe. My son wanted to ditch the old ls1 pcv system so we did the ls6 valley cover and associated mods. The one component we stuck with was the ls1 crossover tube. It had to be "adjusted" quite a bit to fit under his intake but we kept it for the same reasons you mentioned (hot spots on 7&8). I will come up with something to vent mine as well.
 

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Builds finished? Numbers? Hows everything holding up. Im reading all these old builds trying to figure out what I want to do. I like the idea of keeping the ls6 and going fi but I dont think the maggie is enough for me...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Never had mine dyno'd since I do my own tuning. I now have more power than I think the Maggie could ever produce and am currently at 10 lbs of boost with cam and heads. I still have two pulley sizes and an OD crank pulley I can go when I get a forged shortblock. Unless you can get a complete Maggie for $3500-$4000 I wouldn't even consider it.

E-Force FTW!!!
 

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Nice. What heads you running? If you could go back would you go a different route? Because a sc and forged bottom end is going to be in the neighborhood of a motor build right?
 
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