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'98 Seville STS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I used a northstar preformance stud kit on my '98 Seville STS and it has coolant coming out of the tail pipe again. It's from the rear bank. The heads were straight and rebuilt and the block was straight. When it first started it was missing on one cylinder and had water in the intake. I pulled the intake tube off and there was water running out of the maf! There was white foam under the oil cap and pvc valve too. After running for a while it got better. It stopped missing, no more foam under the oil cap or pvc valve, and the steam coming out of the exhaust had reduced but not stopped completely. It doesn't get hot, the highest it got was 3/4. I put a bottle of bars stop leak, the one you don't have to flush the system first, and it just barely has steam coming out of the exhaust now. But I'm not sure if it was the stop leak or the motor going through a few heat cycles helped? I did have to tap the heck out of the heads to get them on the pin studs so I'm thinking maybe I damaged the gasket? But the front head was just as hard to get all the way down and it's fine. It runs great and idles very smoothly. And because it has gotten progressively better I'm wondering if it'll keep getting better on it's own? I would just drive it and see but I bought the car with the blown head gaskets and the tags were very expired so the total cost to register is over $650 and it'll need a smog too. Plus it has no plates. So all this was happening in my garage at idle or reving between 2000-2500 rpms to get the temp up. Before I called it a night I did drive it through the streets around my house and I did three first to second wot runs and it pulled hard all the way to the redline. Like I said I bought it with the bad head gaskets and only drove it off the tow truck in front of my house and into my garage and I was very pleased with how hard it pulls all the way to 6500. Especially with 98000 miles on the bottom end. And I was very happy to finally get to drive it!! I'm just wondering if anyone has had a similar situation with coolant still coming out of the exhaust after a stud kit install or anyother head gasket repair? I was thinking of taking the valve cover off and torquing the nuts on the head studs another 10lbs? I'd appreciate any advice thanks!
 

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1997 Seville STS, 2000 Seville STS
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If you have water in the intake its not head gaskets, there are no water passages in or thru the intake manifold. Does the 98 have a heated throttlebody? My 2000 does but my 97 didn't. Part of the purge line runs thru the throttlebody casting on cars with the heated throttlebody My guess is you have a leak in your throttle body and its getting into your intake that way.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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The entire bottom line is: Remove the engine again, take it apart, and correct the problem.

NO amount of tinkering, tapping, leak sealers, and black magic will repair an engine that is mechanically broken. Coolant in cylinders, oil, or dripping from the exhaust is terminal: You have very big problems.

Those heads should have dropped onto the new studs and seated all the way down with no "tapping". From your description it sounds like you had to use some pretty good force to get the heads on. Not right. not by a long shot.
 

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1999 Eldorado 2000 Jeep TJ 2000 Ford SD 4X4 Diesel crew cab
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372 Posts
When I did the stud repair on my car I had the same problem with the studs being off a little bit. I could not get the head gasket over the studs from miss alignment so I set the gasket on the block first and then put the studs in this keept the gasket from being damaged as for setting the heads over the studs I used a pipe "Monkey" wrench and slightly bent the studs to line them up with the holes in the head it was still hard to push the heads down over the first 3 to 4 inches of the studs but doing it this way caused no damage to the gaskets.
 

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'98 Seville STS
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have water in the intake its not head gaskets, there are no water passages in or thru the intake manifold. Does the 98 have a heated throttlebody? My 2000 does but my 97 didn't. Part of the purge line runs thru the throttlebody casting on cars with the heated throttlebody My guess is you have a leak in your throttle body and its getting into your intake that way.
That was the first thing I thought. I pulled one of the hoses that runs through the throttle body and clamped the other shut and used an air nozzle and it held a lot of air pressure. I was thinking during initial start up the water leak was so bad it was getting sucked back into the intake valves. But also that problem took care of itself. There isn't any water in the intake anymore. My only problem now is a little steam out of the tailpipe.
 

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'98 Seville STS
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The entire bottom line is: Remove the engine again, take it apart, and correct the problem.

NO amount of tinkering, tapping, leak sealers, and black magic will repair an engine that is mechanically broken. Coolant in cylinders, oil, or dripping from the exhaust is terminal: You have very big problems.

Those heads should have dropped onto the new studs and seated all the way down with no "tapping". From your description it sounds like you had to use some pretty good force to get the heads on. Not right. not by a long shot.
I would but thats just not an option right now. If it's not driveable I'll have to put it on my side yard and wait. My dad is a mechanic and works out of our garage and the Seville has been taking it up for a little over a month now. And he doesn't want to start all over just to try something. We don't have a lift and it's a pain to drop and install the cradle with a cherry picker, two jacks, and a few sets of jack stands. He doesn't think we did anything to the gasket and thinks maybe the block is warped just around a water passage around the number three cylinder. The instructions that came with the stud kit says it may take some tapping to get the heads on the pins. And it said we might have to put the studs in the vice grip and bend them for them to line up and most of them did. It's not using any oil and the oil on the dip stick doesn't show any signs of water. The coolant doesn't drip from the exhaust either. It comes out as steam and it's down to a fine mist right now. And the temp gauge is straight up at idle no matter how long it idles for and with quite a few 2500 revs too. But I'm not sure if it's something thats going to keep getting better, stay the same, or if it'll get worse the first time I take it to work. I never thought any of that stop leaks work either until last year when my best friends '94 Toyota Corolla had a badly leaking head gasket. Not blow completely, no water in the oil. It still ran fine but it was eating coolant and pushing it out of the overflow bottle. Enough that the radiator was completely empty after 15 minutes or so. And a bottle of that bars leak stopped it. It is still holding stong and I know he drives the crap out of that car. It's even holding up after it got hot a few times when the water pump gasket went south.
 

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'98 Seville STS
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll get a video of it later today so you can see how little is coming out of the tailpipe.
 

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1997 Seville STS, 2000 Seville STS
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Depending on where you are, your tailpipes will steam due to the outside temperature, and humidity. My 97 steams most of the time since the HGs were done, but never uses a drop of coolant, My 2000 steams till it warms up the entire exhaust system (no amount of idling in the driveway will heat the whole exhaust up) and it also never uses a drop of coolant,. its just the way it is.
 

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03 STS
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i always wondered about stud alignment. if tapped block holes are not square with deck than i can see a little tweaking being required. did you buy car to fix it and sell it or keep it?
 

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98 eldo/KD54 w/N37,T96,QA1,D55,DS3,U1Z. U3R next
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2,125 Posts
Taken from the Nothstar SureGrip Stud Kit instructions 93-99:

Using your old head gaskets(or new ones if the old ones are no longer available) ensure the tip of the studs are perfectly aligned so that the gasket will slip over.

If one or more studs is out of alignment, you can carefully ease them into position by installing a nut to protect the threads and gently tap the stud with a RUBBER mallet. DO NOT USE A STEEL HAMMER OR YOU MAY CRACK THE ENGINE BLOCK.

If one of the studs is excessively out of line, this was caused by a hole that was not drilled and tapped square to the deck surface. In this case you may need to mark which direction that particular stud needs to be bent.

Remove the stud and place in a vice WITH THREADS PROTECTED WITH NUTS. Gently bend the stud in the direction it needs to go, then screw the stud back into the block with new thread locker.
 

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1999 Eldorado 2000 Jeep TJ 2000 Ford SD 4X4 Diesel crew cab
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372 Posts
If one or more studs is out of alignment, you can carefully ease them into position by installing a nut to protect the threads and gently tap the stud with a RUBBER mallet. DO NOT USE A STEEL HAMMER OR YOU MAY CRACK THE ENGINE BLOCK.

I did not want to beat on the stud with a hammer that is why I used the Pipe wrench it worked very well to slightly bend the stud with out removing it from the block
 

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'98 Seville STS
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Taken from the Nothstar SureGrip Stud Kit instructions 93-99:

Using your old head gaskets(or new ones if the old ones are no longer available) ensure the tip of the studs are perfectly aligned so that the gasket will slip over.

If one or more studs is out of alignment, you can carefully ease them into position by installing a nut to protect the threads and gently tap the stud with a RUBBER mallet. DO NOT USE A STEEL HAMMER OR YOU MAY CRACK THE ENGINE BLOCK.

If one of the studs is excessively out of line, this was caused by a hole that was not drilled and tapped square to the deck surface. In this case you may need to mark which direction that particular stud needs to be bent.

Remove the stud and place in a vice WITH THREADS PROTECTED WITH NUTS. Gently bend the stud in the direction it needs to go, then screw the stud back into the block with new thread locker.
That's exactly what I did. I took each stud out and bent them one at a time. They only needed to be bent less an 1/8" except one that was about 3/8" off but the gasket slid right on after they were bent right. And I did use a rubber mallet and was very careful to tap them as softly as I could and still bent them. It took forever but I didn't want to mess up. The heads started okay but about half way down they needed to be tapped on, again with a rubber mallet, but the last inch or so took a lot of tapping.
 

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'98 Seville STS
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i always wondered about stud alignment. if tapped block holes are not square with deck than i can see a little tweaking being required. did you buy car to fix it and sell it or keep it?
I bought it to keep it. For a year or two at least. I really like this car. But I do eventually want an '06/'07 CST-V. The only two things I don't like about this car is it's an automatic and front wheel drive. But everything else is so nice. I always like the look of these cars. My last car was a '94 Towncar and it was a beater. Bought it for $400 and drove the crap out of it but it held up pretty good for the 50,000 or so miles I put on it. Well until it was time for a new motor but I didn't really like the car enough to spend $2000+ on it and it needed a lot of other work do too. I was actually at wrecking yard looking for a motor for that when I spotted the Seville. I paid $1600 for it and then got $250 for the Towncar. Pretty sweet deal. I think I'll probably drive it until I have the money for my V and then my mom has an '05 RSX Type S that she hates but can't afford to get rid of for a nicer car. So I figure I'll give the Seville to her and she can just give me whatever she gets for her RSX. Cause she likes it too. Unless we find her a good deal one on before that. But well probably find her one that needs a rebuild and put a rebuilt motor in it.
 

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'98 Seville STS
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Depending on where you are, your tailpipes will steam due to the outside temperature, and humidity. My 97 steams most of the time since the HGs were done, but never uses a drop of coolant, My 2000 steams till it warms up the entire exhaust system (no amount of idling in the driveway will heat the whole exhaust up) and it also never uses a drop of coolant,. its just the way it is.
I'm hoping thats what it is. Last night it was pretty cold so I started up my brothers Yukon and let it warm up and his tailpipe was steaming too but smelled like exhaust and mine smell like coolant. Hopefully that's just coolant in the pipes and cat still burning off.
 

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'98 Seville STS
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's after idling in my driveway for ten minutes or so and the temp gauge straight up. It was exactly the same when the engine was cold. It's 55 degrees outside. I used my iphone and while I was taking the video I could barely see it on my screen.
 

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98 eldo/KD54 w/N37,T96,QA1,D55,DS3,U1Z. U3R next
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I suggest you drive the car and keep and eye on your temp gauge, driver's information center and your coolant reservoir.

After reading over the stud instructions, it seems mandatory that you take your time and drill the holes out perfectly.

When I receive my headgasket kit this coming week I will compare the holes on the gasket to the holes on the jig for the studs. I'm sure Jake has invested a lot of time into this jig for it to be almost dead perfect.

Yet, again nothing in life is perfect. That's why it's always better to double check everything.

Keep us posted......
 

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'98 Seville STS
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Something has just come to mind. I've read on a few threads here that the N*'s don't put water in the oil when they blow the head gasket, unless they are severely blown. When we pulled the timing cover off there was definitely some water in the oil, white foam. And the head gaskets did not look to be badly blown.
 

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ElDorado 98 ETC
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Is it running well? Is it using coolant? (Should be about 2" down from filler cap.) If you take off the radiator cap do you see bubbles? A trick I have used is - place the radiator overflow tube up and pointing on the front window. If after a hard acceleration (and the radiator isn't overfull) you may see coolant on the windshield. If you do then your headgasket isn't working, otherwize it's probably doing it's job.

If it's running/idling smooth and not using coolant then the steam is quite likely normal. A by product of combustion is water. I see my caddy steaming alot when it's cool out. After you've run the car for a awhile you can pull the plugs and inspect. A white pretty plug is a steam cleaned plug, and may slightly smell of coolant.

Also, you may have ruined the catalytic converter or an O2 sensor with antifreeze so don't be suprized by a P0420 code popping up. But that's another thread.

GL!
 
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