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95 Fleetwood Brougham / 01 DTS / 11 CTS Lux / 11 DTS Platinum
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Discussion Starter #1
I had my engine cover professionally painted and it looked great. However after a couple days on the engine the paint is peeling off. WTF? Does anyone know how to prevent this?

I understand it gets hot but I would think that automotive paint would be able to tolerate the heat under the hood. It's not like we painted the exhaust with it.
 

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1988 SDV; 1997 SDV D'Elegance
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Could it be as minor a point as not letting the paint cure enough before reinstalling it? I know that in my case, the paint hasn't held up well on the "accordian" portion of the snorkle - that 90 degree bend in the airbox/snorkle assembly, and I chalked it up to reinstalling it before the paint had time to set up properly. Of all the pieces, it was the worst for this. All the others were left off the car until I was sure they were OK.
 

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You could also try and put a few coats of either a poly or good wax on the painted surfaces. I realize they won't last long with the heat, but every little bit of protection helps. A paint especially formulated for the plastic compounds in the engine shrouhd is also a "must".
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
We're thinking that it didn't cure long enough. My boy, the painter, said that it's possible the heat drew solvent out of the plastic and made it peal.

So you're also feeling like regular automotive paint should withstand the heat of the engine compartment?

We're both pretty ticked I can tell you that.
 

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2012 Escalade, 2014 SRX
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These parts were painted with the same paint as the exterior of the car. On your underhood parts your prep has to be very good, many plastic parts if exposed to oil or solvents should be replaced before painting with new parts, or the paint will never adhere properly, and you have to use an adhesive promotor. These pixs were taken after several years on the car, they look as good today as the car does. :)



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot

I'm not sure exactly what was done during prep. I can tell you that he spent about 6 hrs to pain this thing so we're pretty upset. Knowing that the body pain should hold up I will assume that we're probably correct.

He feels that the solvents in the primer / paint get into the plastic, didn't have a chance to evap and came out because of the heat? Does that make any sense?

What steps can we take to insure proper adhesion.


These parts were painted with the same paint as the exterior of the car. On your underhood parts your prep has to be very good, many plastic parts if exposed to oil or solvents should be replaced before painting with new parts, or the paint will never adhere properly, and you have to use an adhesive promotor. These pixs were taken after several years on the car, they look as good today as the car does. :)



 

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I will be at the shop later this week to get some painted Escalade parts, I will find out the name of the adhesion product he uses.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, that would be great

I will be at the shop later this week to get some painted Escalade parts, I will find out the name of the adhesion product he uses.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Personally we think we're dealing with excessive shrinkage by the heat causing rapid drying. The primer is still very intact on the plastic.

Either way, it's getting DA'd back to nothing and re-worked. I may not even chance that again. It's too traumatic. I may just keep the cover for show only.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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As were mine. 3 coats of colour, followed by 3 coats of clear (I think). Sanding with progressively finer grits was done after each coat. Really, the ONLY part that has outright "failed" is the aforementioned accordian portion of the air intake snorkle and I think that is more a consequence of it's inherent mobility as opposed to any sort of paint-related failure.

Hell, just reinstalling the damn thing caused some peeling along the grooved plastic!
 
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