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Discussion Starter #1
Few things have came up on the car almost all at once (ironically when I put it up on Craigslist for sale)...

The 3 parking aid lights above the rear windshield come on when I hit the brakes. 1 or 2 lights on light braking, and all 3 lights when I brake to a full stop.

I have tested this a few times and it is directly in sync with my braking.

How is this possible?

Then, my seat vent/heaters stopped working and I now have an error on the DVD screen that says "Vehicle Personalization Error".
 

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2006 STS 1SF N* RWD NAV F55
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In cases like this, Where weird stuff come up.
I recommend resetting the ECM, by disconnecting
the battery cable ,for a while, or while it's disconnected
hit the brakes, to bring on the Brake lights,You can monitor
this by observing the interior, (DOME) light, NOT coming on.
Try to reconnect it in one connection, you WILL hear the relays,
clicking, So try to do it in one connection, "CLICK", and not
click, click,click,click, etc.
Give everything a chance to reset, then see what you have,
this reset is "FREE", so it's worth a try.
Happy Motoring. :cool2::cloud9::cool2::helpless::2thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In cases like this, Where weird stuff come up.
I recommend resetting the ECM, by disconnecting
the battery cable ,for a while, or while it's disconnected
hit the brakes, to bring on the Brake lights,You can monitor
this by observing the interior, (DOME) light, NOT coming on.
Try to reconnect it in one connection, you WILL hear the relays,
clicking, So try to do it in one connection, "CLICK", and not
click, click,click,click, etc.
Give everything a chance to reset, then see what you have,
this reset is "FREE", so it's worth a try.
Happy Motoring. :cool2::cloud9::cool2::helpless::2thumbs:
I'll give that a whirl. I tried disconnecting the battery and touched the neg and pos together for 30 seconds... left it off for 15 minutes then reconnected but yeah, when I reconnected it I could hear it clicking a few times as I wasn't getting a good connection right off the bat.

I'll try to calm my hands and get it locked down on the first go.

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When this kind of stuff shows up, two things come to mind; bad battery and flood car.
Nah, local B.C. car ran the VIN and was clear title. No rust anywhere, car is solid that way for sure.

New AC/DELCO battery last year.
 

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2006 STS V8 AWD, '95 Ford Ranger
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For all practical purposes I find that my parking sensor system is inoperable from late October until April. It has snow, ice, or frost on it so
I just ignore whatever it is doing. That being said, when it is fouled by forces of nature it eventually quits signalling altogether and hibernates
until spring whereupon it greets the re-arrival of old Sol with normal operation. The point is that I don't consider it to be fully trustworthy for
a major portion of the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For all practical purposes I find that my parking sensor system is inoperable from late October until April. It has snow, ice, or frost on it so
I just ignore whatever it is doing. That being said, when it is fouled by forces of nature it eventually quits signalling altogether and hibernates
until spring whereupon it greets the re-arrival of old Sol with normal operation. The point is that I don't consider it to be fully trustworthy for
a major portion of the year.
haha weird. Mine still works fine for parking it seems; the lights and escalating audible beep seem to be gauging distance just fine.

Just odd that it turns on when I hit the brakes. How is that connected?

Got a mechanic friend who is going to plug at Tech II into it today to see what we can uncover. I am hoping there is an "alt+ctrl+Del" option on the scanner (haha).
 

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08 STS4 V8 1SG & 04 SRX4 V8 & 01 Monte SS
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IIRC the URPA doesn't have any Tech2 diagnostic abilities, it has its own diagnostic mode that you have to enable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IIRC the URPA doesn't have any Tech2 diagnostic abilities, it has its own diagnostic mode that you have to enable.
The TECH II may have pin pointed my heated/cooled/memory seat's not working issue.

My buddy mechanic suggested the reason why the URPA lights turn on when I brake is related to the fact that both reverse lights aren't working; could be the bulb is burnt out.

I knew that they weren't working (1 would sometimes work, but recently both went out) so that kind of made sense to me. He said he has seen that with the Chrysler cars he works on.

Either way, the reverse lights have to be fixed so I'll do that and see if it does the trick.
 

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08 STS-4 N* 1SG, 08 DTS Luxury II, 04 Bonneville GXP N*
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Good Lord, back with the flood car bit! I'm sure about half the members on here must own a flood car :bigroll:

I don't see how the reverse lamps being burned out will have any effect on the URPA. The schematic shows that the backup lamp relay is controlled by the Rear Integration Module. When engaged, the relay provides power to both reverse lamps and an input on the URPA module. There is no current sensing or other means for the module to know whether the lamps are illuminated or not. I don't know how Chrysler does things (other than I've seen some really screwed up electrical work like fusing the rear window wiper together with instrument panel backlighting). I'm confident something else is going on. As Luda says, there is no data bus connectivity with the URPA module so Tech2 diagnostics are not an option. There is however some diagnostics internal to the module that can be accessed with an external connector. These diagnostics may not be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good Lord, back with the flood car bit! I'm sure about half the members on here must own a flood car :bigroll:

I don't see how the reverse lamps being burned out will have any effect on the URPA. The schematic shows that the backup lamp relay is controlled by the Rear Integration Module. When engaged, the relay provides power to both reverse lamps and an input on the URPA module. There is no current sensing or other means for the module to know whether the lamps are illuminated or not. I don't know how Chrysler does things (other than I've seen some really screwed up electrical work like fusing the rear window wiper together with instrument panel backlighting). I'm confident something else is going on. As Luda says, there is no data bus connectivity with the URPA module so Tech2 diagnostics are not an option. There is however some diagnostics internal to the module that can be accessed with an external connector. These diagnostics may not be helpful.
Thanks for that input! All this is over my pay grade so I am at a bit of a loss. What you said seems to make sense though, just nothing I am qualified to do with that information haha.

Reverse lights will be fixed today and we will see if that does anything other than illuminate the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Changed the bulbs, and reverse lights still don't come on.

When I bought the car, there was some motorola control panel (the size of two thumbs put together) that illuminates but I had no idea what it controlled, that hangs just below the Start ignition button (hanging from a seam between the dash panel pieces).

Just now I was checking some of the fuses under the rear seat and noticed some random wiring that did not look like it was professional work. It split into 3 wires, one grounded and the other two each were jammed into a 10A fuse randomly (I have pics I'll upload later).

I am guessing that this is what that Motorola controller thing is attached to. Needless to say, I pulled them out of the fuses and left it danging out of my back seat for now.

Car was running fine for the 2 years I had it, but maybe it shorted out or something?

Electronics... not my forte.
 

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08 STS-4 N* 1SG, 08 DTS Luxury II, 04 Bonneville GXP N*
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This suggests a ground fault.
Possible, but I doubt it very much.

Too many other circuits ground at the same point so if this was the case other systems would also likely be involved. Many of the ground locations in these cars have a numerous wires crimped to a single terminal that is then bolted to the body.

This requires testing and various points through the circuit. I have seen instances where the wiring breaks where it bends at the location it bridges from the body to the trunk lid. But like I said, it could be a lot of things including what was described as someone's possible handy-work of wiring mods.

Has the fuse been checked? I don't recall if it's exclusive to the reverse lamps or also protects other circuits so this is where I'd start at least.

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This is a very straight forward circuit though and all wiring is easily accessible so solving the problem will not require a lot of effort.
 

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DD - In respect of your extensive experience with our cars and access to the FSM documentation, I do still contend that a few simple tests could support or refute a ground fault theory affecting two subsystems in close proximity.

In my experience, there are often benefits in testing lower probability root causes when the tests are significantly easier than other causes that may be more likely. Serendipity can always happen, too. I think you'll understand what I mean.
 

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Changed the bulbs, and reverse lights still don't come on.

When I bought the car, there was some motorola control panel (the size of two thumbs put together) that illuminates but I had no idea what it controlled, that hangs just below the Start ignition button (hanging from a seam between the dash panel pieces).

Just now I was checking some of the fuses under the rear seat and noticed some random wiring that did not look like it was professional work. It split into 3 wires, one grounded and the other two each were jammed into a 10A fuse randomly (I have pics I'll upload later).
Do you have a trailer hitch, or does it look like someone has added trailer wiring?

Jamming wiring into a terminal along side a fuse is one of the worst things a person can do for creating problems. I've seen numerous cases where the additional width of the wire along with the fuse permanently bends the terminal and after the wires are removed, the fuse does not make consistent and reliable contact. Terminals are engineered to apply a specific force against the mating terminal and to ensure a specific surface area contact. This ensures good continuity and the ability to carry the designed amount of current. Sadly, it seems like a real hack has been at work in your vehicle.

With the rear seat cushion out, do you hear a relay engage when you put the car in reverse? You may need to pull the carpet forward a little and/or remove the fuse block cover to hear it. This will at least confirm the wiring is intact and functioning between the Rear Integration Module and the fuse block and that the fuse for the circuit is good (the relay coil is protected by the same fuse as the lamps).


DD - In respect of your extensive experience with our cars and access to the FSM documentation, I do still contend that a few simple tests could support or refute a ground fault theory affecting two subsystems in close proximity.

In my experience, there are often benefits in testing lower probability root causes when the tests are significantly easier than other causes that may be more likely. Serendipity can always happen, too. I think you'll understand what I mean.
My position is simply from the fact that the module becomes active when a +12VDC signal is applied to one of the inputs rather than the input being grounded as is the case with many other circuits. It sounds like someone has been messing with the wiring so I could see a short to +12VDC but not really a ground fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Do you have a trailer hitch, or does it look like someone has added trailer wiring?

Jamming wiring into a terminal along side a fuse is one of the worst things a person can do for creating problems. I've seen numerous cases where the additional width of the wire along with the fuse permanently bends the terminal and after the wires are removed, the fuse does not make consistent and reliable contact. Terminals are engineered to apply a specific force against the mating terminal and to ensure a specific surface area contact. This ensures good continuity and the ability to carry the designed amount of current. Sadly, it seems like a real hack has been at work in your vehicle.

With the rear seat cushion out, do you hear a relay engage when you put the car in reverse? You may need to pull the carpet forward a little and/or remove the fuse block cover to hear it. This will at least confirm the wiring is intact and functioning between the Rear Integration Module and the fuse block and that the fuse for the circuit is good (the relay coil is protected by the same fuse as the lamps).



My position is simply from the fact that the module becomes active when a +12VDC signal is applied to one of the inputs rather than the input being grounded as is the case with many other circuits. It sounds like someone has been messing with the wiring so I could see a short to +12VDC but not really a ground fault.
No hitch.


 

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Where do those wires go?

The person that did this should have known of the simple "add a circuit" that you can buy for a couple bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Where do those wires go?

The person that did this should have known of the simple "add a circuit" that you can buy for a couple bucks.
It's attached to this hunk of junk http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-98676-98676L-Bluetooth-Accessory/dp/B0008IV508/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431634962&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+hf1000

The Motorola controller pops out from the seam in the dash trim pieces underneath the Start button. I just left it there when I bought the car because I didn't want the hassle of taking the car apart to remove it (ironically that's what I have to do now)

No idea if it ever worked because I've been using the standard bluetooth in the car just fine (minus the fact that it can't handle call waiting).

I pulled the trim piece around the DVD nav to see if I could fish out where it goes. The controller leads underneath the steering wheel and into the abyss.

The microphone is up by the sunroof controls and runs along the edge of the top of the driver's side windshield tucked under the liner and runs down the side airbag pillar to the driver's side footwell somewhere.
 

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strange device and a big waste of money I'd say as the reviews say it doesn't do A2DP streaming either... I can think of much easier methods to power such a device that are closer to the radio that would fall into a less obstructive hack than this one going all the way back there and still they end up a hack of an install....

Looking at the 2005 STS manual for fuses on the driver side rear panel ... page 5-100 ... i'm not able to line this up at all... so that wire must be jammed in on the passenger side?=
https://my.cadillac.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2005/cadillac/sts/2005_cadillac_sts_owners.pdf

Which fuse was it actually jammed into?
The 15a blue fuse appears to be "HTD STG/CLM - Heated Steering Wheel" and the empty bay below it would hold the 4 pin relay for rear export fogs assuming this is the passenger side fuse panel.

If this is really the driver's side panel then that 15a fuse would be for "IGN3 - Front Passenger Heated Seat, Auto Shifter, Occupant Protection" and then you'd be missing the relay for "TRUNK DR REL RELAY MICRO - Trunk Release Motor". In either case I don't imagine those would be the same circuits that would run the URPA or the backup lamps.

In the Driver's side panel the last relay does control both URPA and backup lamps:
"REV LAMP RELAY MICRO - Reverse Lamps, Rear Parking Aid", based on your second photo this relay is present as it would be closest to the driver's side rear door.
This panel also has the fuse that runs ... "REVERSE LAMP - Reverse Lamps, Rear Parking Aid, Inside Rearview Mirror".

I'd spend some time checking fuses for bad ones or poorly connected ones.
 

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The fuse block with the green connector block is the passenger side and the blue connector block is the passenger side.
 
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