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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed my UCC shifter and WOW!! :lildevil: Its a New CAR!!!!
Took over 2" out of the throw, and in the time reduction, its almost impossible not to just GO FASTER!!!! No more trouble with BMW slapsticks.... its over now baby!

LivingtheDream 05 Platinum B&B Exhaust, Lingenfelter Cold Air Intake, GSD-3's 10.5" in the rear 8.5" front, UCC Shifter, ..... StealthVPower Tune is here in the Box, goes in this weekend.

For now, I think I am done.... but what a difference the short throw makes!!! If you haven't ... DO IT!

LTD.:welcome:
 

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2016 ATS Premium 6-spd MT
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Isn't it just about one the best mods you can do? Even though I have the B&M, what a difference compared to the OEM shifter! Definitely, money well spent.:bouncy:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your right about best money spent. I would have done this mod first if I had known. For all the rest of you, get rid of the mush that GM gave you and mod your SHIFTER..... no more driving SLOW....it wont LET YOU! :crybaby:

Forget gas prices, live the dream!

Socal V.........livingthedream
 

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LTD,

Plan on buying a UUC soon. How hard or easy was the install. I've the posts and it looks like alot of work.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Installation.... I am a cancer survivor so I cannot get over, under, around and through any more so I have a shop, with an honest mechanic (oxymoron i know) do mine.

It was difficult even for them. The instructions give a nice view of dropping in from the top, but they had to drop the exhaust (B&B straight 3") and lowered the transmission to get it in completely right.

charged me $185 for that. (put in the Exhaust for $125). Took them almost 4 hours.

but I tell you however you get it in, and get it in right, its worth it whether in time or money.

BTW, someone was posting a buy on UCC for something around $350+ if they got 5 or more, I bought direct and got it for under that with shipping included?????

livingthedream.

Turn the Key and Smile..... Its Showtime for the V:bouncy:
 

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LTD:
I have a UUC shifter on order, and need to get it installed, preferably at the time of installing an exhaust system...can you share who your "honest mechanic" in Orange County is?
Thanks.
 

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CTS-V
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268 Posts
JWhyld said:
LTD,

Plan on buying a UUC soon. How hard or easy was the install. I've the posts and it looks like alot of work.

Jeff
The instructions look harder than they are. I did my own (although using my friend's lift in his garage helped) and as long as you take it step-by-step, it's not bad at all. With the UUC, you do not have to drop the transmission - I didn't. Although, while I have heard of others here on the forum who were able to do it without dropping the exhaust or driveshaft, I was not and after about 5 minutes of looking, ended up taking off the exhaust and disconnecting the front part of the drive shaft to get to the shifter. I think in the end, I saved time. I went very slowly and it took about two hours from start to finish.

It is one of the best mods one can do - it makes the V feel like a different car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Honest Mechanic is Master Tech Auto Care in Bellflower. Kind of a way up there on the 91, but worth it. The owner was certified Cadillac before he started his own shop. 10042 Artesia Place 562.804.4478 Kevin owns it, John is head mechanic, got a good motor head named Stephen for installing mods for me. They do all my regular work on my other cars as well. Always shot me straight, stood behind the work (and we have not always agreed) and charged fair prices (I did not say cheap, but fair) and you get good work. Been using them for quite a while on all makes (Cadillac, Olds, Chevy and always been good).

If they were not that good, there are a lot of shops between Orange and there, but I have not regretted taking my stuff up there one bit.

livingthedream:bigroll:
 

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07 SRX V8 AWD Diamond White Sport Edition & 08 C6 LS3/418ci
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Had mine installed in the V last Sunday and had a "grin" on my face for 45 consecutive miles all the way home. Even drove around the block a couple of times before she went into the garage. The absolute very best modification you can put on the CTSV. You would swear that it's a different car! Damn can those Germans auto engineers build an automobile part that is second to none.

Now only if GM would have "listened" to Getrag when Getrag told them that the differential they wanted for the CTSV was too damn small for all of the American Muscle and had bought what Getrag originally proposed; Cadillac would have had it ALL RIGHT from the beginning. But nooooo........anything to save an American buck at the cost of the consumer!
 

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2004 CTSV
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51PHFTY said:
The instructions look harder than they are. I did my own (although using my friend's lift in his garage helped) and as long as you take it step-by-step, it's not bad at all. With the UUC, you do not have to drop the transmission - I didn't. Although, while I have heard of others here on the forum who were able to do it without dropping the exhaust or driveshaft, I was not and after about 5 minutes of looking, ended up taking off the exhaust and disconnecting the front part of the drive shaft to get to the shifter. I think in the end, I saved time. I went very slowly and it took about two hours from start to finish.

It is one of the best mods one can do - it makes the V feel like a different car.
51

I can put the car up maybe 15 inches on jack stands in the front and use ramps on the back. I put my Corsa on this way.

From your experience, do you think this is enough room to work if I drop the exhaust and the drive shaft?

Thanks form any insight you have on this.

Tony
 

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2004ctsv said:
51

I can put the car up maybe 15 inches on jack stands in the front and use ramps on the back. I put my Corsa on this way.

From your experience, do you think this is enough room to work if I drop the exhaust and the drive shaft?

Thanks form any insight you have on this.

Tony
2004 -

If you had enough room to remove the stock exhaust and install the Corsa, it should not be a problem. After you drop the Corsa, just drop the front and mid bracket on the drive shaft and leave the rear connected and let the drive shaft rest on the ground off to the side.The only tight part you might have is fitting the drill up inside the tunnel to drill out the two rivets but I think you will have plenty of room. The UUC instructions tell you to remove the whole shifter mechanism but I didn't. I left it connected at the end of the rods and just fit my hands up in there from the bottom to work with the old shifter and the UUC. Make sure you fit the plastic bushing that comes off of the stock shifter with the correct side up on the UUC (although I am not sure it is a problem if you get it upside down - one end is tapered). Also, there is a rubber cover on the bottom of the stock shifter and it will come off in one piece and install on the UUC if you want to do it. It just takes some prodding.

When you go to tighten the bolts that connect the shifter plate to the V (you do this from the top after the UUC is installed), there is about 1/8" of play and as I tightened the bolts, I pulled it (the whole shifter assembly) over to the driver's side of the car (another forum member suggested doing this in another thread) as far as I could and it really helps when putting the car into reverse later on.

For the most part, just follow the instructions on the FAQ site.

The whole thing is well worth the effort.

Marty
 

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Marty

Thanks

Did you use the FAQ instructions or did something more come with the UUC?

The FAQ doesn't mention drilling out rivets.

Tony
 

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2004ctsv said:
Marty

Thanks

Did you use the FAQ instructions or did something more come with the UUC?

The FAQ doesn't mention drilling out rivets.

Tony
Tony,

I mostly used the FAQ and referred to the UUC instructions to confirm (the UUC instructions also have some good pictures but UUC wants you to drop the tranny which is not required). After you remove the shift knob and boot (mine both came out on the first pull - guess I pulled a little too hard), remove the foam piece under the boot and you will see two bolts which hold the shifter base plate to the transmission tunnel. After you remove the two bolts, the shifter mechanism is loose and it is only held to the car by the shifter rod ends connected to the tranny. The rivets hold a 1/2 cup on top of the plate (which you loosened from the top) which acts as the retaining cup for the shifter ball to mount to the base plate. You have to drill these out so that you can remove the retaining cup in order to remove the stock shifter from the base plate and install the UUC in its place. The UUC comes with two replacement bolts and nuts to replace the rivets. Be sure to use the grease that UUC gives you on the ball.

Again, it sounds harder than it is (although, since you are going to be fairly close to where you are drilling, the metal rivet shavings get HOT so I suggest wearing long sleeves and a hat) and once the shifter mechanism is loose, you will see what I am talking about from under the car.

The drilling is the hardest part and everything else is simply bolt up.

Marty
 

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Alexandria, Va
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You can drill the rivets out from the top... We've found that this is less involved then dropping components underneath to gain access to the rivets from the bottom.

If you drill the rivets out from the top and you have small hands, you can actually do the entire job without lowering anything under the car.

The only things you have to do from the bottom are; remove and install the bolt that connects the shifter stalk to the shifter linkage, and hold the bolts/nuts that attach the new shifter to the mounting plate.
 

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Has anyone had this done in the tristate area (nyc), to suggest where to go? Virginia is far but if I have to... I think I herd the shifter is $350
 

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2017 CTS-V, sold: 2011 CTS-V Sedan, 2004 CTS-V
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"have to... I think I herd the shifter is $350"

Who has the best price for the UUC shifter? Or are we all stuck at $399 buying directly from UUCMotorwerks...
 

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Just finished installing the UUC this weekend myself. Not a big problem, thanks to James's tips on the installation. But the bushings are a whole different issue (for me.) Just installing them on the linkage(s) took longer then installing the whole UUC shifter! I hope they're worth the effort...
 

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BadCad said:
Just finished installing the UUC this weekend myself. Not a big problem, thanks to James's tips on the installation. But the bushings are a whole different issue (for me.) Just installing them on the linkage(s) took longer then installing the whole UUC shifter! I hope they're worth the effort...
I just ordered the UUC shifter, what are these bushings that I see reference to? Are these something else that would be a good idea or do they come with the shifter?

Has anyone around the Sacramento CA area had one installed?

:cloud9:
 
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