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2011 DTS Platinum
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Don't know if this will help anyone or not...I hope so...

There is a TSB for the flickering headlight problem, but I have not been able to find the full text of it.

http://www.allworldauto.com/tsbs/mmyDetails.php?id=263748

NHTSA Item Number: 10024583
Service Bulletin #: PIC4812
Replacement #:
Vehicle/Equipment Make: CADILLAC
Vehicle/Eqipment Model: DTS
Model Year: 2006
Mfg Component Code: 121000 EXTERIOR LIGHTING:HEADLIGHTS
Date of Bulletin: 2008-03-01
Date Added: 2008-04-25
Summary: HEADLAMP FLICKER - 2006-2007 CADILLAC DTS BUILT BEFORE JUNE 19, 2007. *NJ

Texas Jim
 

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2006 DTS Black Raven
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I jacked this off a XLR forum:
Look at BOLD

From the manual:

High Intensity Discharge (HID) High Beam Headlamps
Battery positive voltage is applied at all times to the coil and switched side of the high beam relay. Battery positive voltage is also applied at all times through the coil side of the low beam relay to the low beam relay control circuit, to the multifunction headlamp switch. When the multifunction headlamp switch is placed in the high beam position, battery positive voltage is applied through the high beam headlamp dimmer switch signal circuit to the BCM. The BCM then applies a ground to the high beam relay control circuit. This energizes the high beam relay, closing the switched side of the high beam relay, applying battery positive voltage to the Left and Right High Beam Fuses. Battery positive voltage is then applied from the High Beam Fuses through the high beam solenoid switched voltage supply circuit to the high beam solenoid assembly inside of the headlamp. This causes the solenoid to retract a plate partially covering the low beam headlamps and allowing the lamps to illuminate at full brightness.
Run Up Of The Lamp
Each ballast requires higher amperage in order to ensure normal startup and run up of the lamp. Run up is the term used to describe the extra power level given to the bulb. The input current during the steady state operation is lower that the start up amperage. After the lamp receives the strike from the starter and the arc is established, the ballast uses its operating voltage in order to provide the run up power needed in order to keep the lamp on. The lamp rapidly increases in intensity from a dim glow to a very high-intensity, bright light called a steady state. Within a few seconds of the arc being established in the bulb, the majority of steady state is complete. 100% of the steady state is completed shortly there after. A high watt power level is necessary in order to bring the lamp to a steady state in such a short period of time. The high watt power level allows the lamp to meet the SAE light vs. time specification.
When To Change The HID Bulb
Bulb failure, end of life occurs when the bulb gets old and becomes unstable. The bulb may begin shutting itself off sporadically and unpredictably at first, perhaps only once during a 24-hour period. When the bulb begins shutting itself off occasionally, the ballast will automatically turn the bulb back on again within 0.5 seconds. The ballast will re-strike the bulb so quickly that the bulb may not appear to have shut off. As the bulb ages, the bulb may begin to shut off more frequently, eventually over 30 times per minute. When the bulb begins to shut off more frequently, the ballast receives excessive, repetitive current input . Repetitive and excessive restarts or re-strikes, without time for the ballast to cool down, will permanently damage the ballast. As a safeguard, when repetitive re-strikes are detected, the ballast will not attempt to re-strike the lamp. The ballast then shuts down and the bulb goes out.
The following symptoms are the noticeable signs of bulb failure:

* A flickering light, caused in the early stages of bulb failure
* The lights go out, caused when the ballast detects excessive, repetitive bulb re-strike
* Color change - the lamp may change to a dim pink glow


Input power to the ballast must be terminated in order to reset the ballast's fault circuitry. In order to terminate the input power to the ballast, turn the lights off and back on again. Turning the lights off and back on again resets all of the fault circuitry within the ballast until the next occurrence of excessive, repetitive bulb re-strikes. When excessive, repetitive bulb re-strikes occur, replace the starter/arc tube assembly. The ballast will begin the start-up process when the starter/arc tube assembly is replaced. Repeatedly resetting the input power can overheat the internal components and cause permanent damage to the ballast. Allow a few minutes of cool-down time in between reset attempts.
Bulb failures are often sporadic at first, and difficult to repeat. Technicians can identify bulb failure by observing if the problem gets progressively worse over the next 100 hours of operation.
Light Color
White light has a different color rating than regular headlamps. The range of white light that is acceptable is broad when compared to halogens. Therefore, some variation in headlight coloring between the right and left headlamp will be normal. One HID at the end of the normal range may appear considerably different in color from one at the other end of the range. Difference in color is normal. Replace the arc tube only if the arc tube is determined to be at the bulb failure stage.
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I recently had this problem left headlight would flicker then go out completely until car was restarted. Took it to the dealer who said couldnt find anything wrong. I went out that night and it did it again. I took a picture of the out headlight with cell phone and emailed it to them. They said bring it in. I decided to turn on the lights on my way over to the dealer. When I pulled in the left light was on but to my and the service writers surprise the right side was out. They decided it was time to start replacing parts. They said cheapest parts first. First they replaced both bulbs, about $600-$700 job if not under warranty they tell me. Good guess on their part , lights haven't flickered or gone out since then. Car is 2007 DTS w/46000 miles Hope this helps people
 

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Seems it's a common problem. I was having this problem in my 07 DTS also. Dealer could not find a problem. After some bitching on my end, the dealer replaced the ballast's in both lamps Out of "good will".
 

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Hello. I just bought an 06 DTS with 31,000 miles on it. I love the car, and everthing is great excep for the flickering headlight issues. I bought from a cadillac dealer who doesn't want to help. I have noticed that now on of the headlights goes out after they flicker for a little while. I have read this forum, and the question that I have is: If I replace the blasts and the bulbs, will this fix the problem? It's dark when I got to work, and dark when I leave work, so this is a constant issue for me.

Anyone that has replaced the bulbs and balasts, please let me know if this corrected the issue and any info on the products you used would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hello. I just bought an 06 DTS with 31,000 miles on it. I love the car, and everthing is great excep for the flickering headlight issues. I bought from a cadillac dealer who doesn't want to help. I have noticed that now on of the headlights goes out after they flicker for a little while. I have read this forum, and the question that I have is: If I replace the blasts and the bulbs, will this fix the problem? It's dark when I got to work, and dark when I leave work, so this is a constant issue for me.

Anyone that has replaced the bulbs and balasts, please let me know if this corrected the issue and any info on the products you used would be greatly appreciated.
Where do you live? I went to Cadillac Village of Norwood and they replaced both Balasts and they now work perfectly! :)

I love my Caddy :)
 
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Do you know if the vehicle is still within warranty? I would try another dealership if the one you purchased it from is not willing to help. If you want me to locate one or make an appointment for you, just let me know.
Breanne
Cadillac Customer Service
 

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Thanks for the replies. I did not buy that waranty, it came with a 90 day power train waranty, the sales rep told me to bring it up, but without buying the waranty, there wasn;t much of a chance it would be covered. I dread the thought of spening a half day at the dealer and not having anything done. I am very mechanical and would have no problem changing out the Balasts and bulbs, I just know better than to buy these part from GM. I am very satified with the dealer that i worked with and the rep was great. Do you know if the balasts and bulbs would be covered under the power train waranty? Seem unlikely. I live in Pittsburgh, PA.
 

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It's the BULBS! Amazon has them for $55 bucks each. I replaced both myself. It's easy enough to do yourself. I have been dealing with this issue for 6 months now. I took my 06 to the dealer and said their was nothing wrong, then I was driving at night and BOTH head lights shut off. HOLY SHIT that was scary. I purchased and replaced 2 new BALLASTS at first but that was not the problem. I had heard that removing the head light assembly was a real pain. After a couple of hours I finally was able to free the first head light. I did the other side in about 20 minutes. It's really easy to do once you have been there before. Replace your head lights yourself or the dealer will charge you a $1000.00 what a JOKE. Some guy posted pictures on here as to how to remove the head lights. Check it out and save your cash.
 

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Hello. I just bought an 06 DTS with 31,000 miles on it. I love the car, and everthing is great excep for the flickering headlight issues. I bought from a cadillac dealer who doesn't want to help. I have noticed that now on of the headlights goes out after they flicker for a little while. I have read this forum, and the question that I have is: If I replace the blasts and the bulbs, will this fix the problem? It's dark when I got to work, and dark when I leave work, so this is a constant issue for me.

Anyone that has replaced the bulbs and balasts, please let me know if this corrected the issue and any info on the products you used would be greatly appreciated.
I just bought an 06 DTS Lux III back in February. The passenger light started flickering right after I bought it. It only actually went out once, where I had to turn the lights off and back on to get the light lit again. I just replaced the bulb (or igniter is the correct term I guess) and it apparently fixed the problem. I did not want to ruin the ballast by waiting too long. I bought a pair of Sylvania d1s from amazon. The new one matched the color of the drivers side very close. I was afraid to buy Philips because of all the Chinese knockoffs out there. From what I read, China does not manufacture Sylvania knockoff. Yet.
 

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bigtone could explain just a little how to do one at a time, ( can the whole lens be removed doing one side at a time? ). Would you be able to take the lens inside you're home and change all bulbs you're way? Sorry if the questions sound silly but I've never had to replace mine yet, just being informed and ready when I have to thanks.:yup:
 

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Tom's Caddy said:
bigtone could explain just a little how to do one at a time, ( can the whole lens be removed doing one side at a time? ). Would you be able to take the lens inside you're home and change all bulbs you're way? Sorry if the questions sound silly but I've never had to replace mine yet, just being informed and ready when I have to thanks.:yup:
It really is not that bad. I did it without even taking the wheel off I actually had to take the passenger side off twice to change the ballast. Had it in and out in 37 minutes.
 

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bigtone could explain just a little how to do one at a time, ( can the whole lens be removed doing one side at a time? ). Would you be able to take the lens inside you're home and change all bulbs you're way? Sorry if the questions sound silly but I've never had to replace mine yet, just being informed and ready when I have to thanks.:yup:
If you just loosen one side of the valance, you do not need help removing it entirely off the car. There is enough flex in it to pull it away the 6 inches or so that you need to remove the light assembly itself. If I remember, after valence is out of the way, 3 bolts (all 10mm) is all that holds the light assembly in. I did not remove the wheel either. There is a good writeup with pics that helped me as far as finding the bolts by feel. Do a search.
 

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My right HID headlamps on my 2006 DTS has started turning off randomly. sometimes it will flicker a couple times and stay off. If I manually turn off the headlamps and then back on, it will usually stay on again for awhile. Some nights it will stay on without flickering. The headlamp is still bright, but definitely has a pink tint to it. It's not visibly flickering more than a couple times.

I've read online about bulbs and ballasts and from what it seems like to me, is that it's time to replace the bulb, but if I wait longer the bulb flickering could get worse and cause the ballast to fail. Does that seem like a fair assessment? The ballast is awfully expensive and I'm hoping that if I replace the bulb now, while it's just starting to go out, that maybe that will save the ballast. Can anyone offer some advise?

Do the front wheels need to come off, or can they be turned out of the way? This determines whether I can do the job myself. I don't have a jack and don't want to buy one.
 
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