[Night Wolf]

Hey everyone, I took off the negitive terminal on the battery to reset everything, and when I put it back on, I heard the auto-trunk think go up but not relase the trunk) and as it is now, the trunk will open and close, but the auto pull down does not work, it is stuck all the way up. the trunk light still goes on, and all other electronics work great, but the trunk will not go down.....

I am really starting to hate power things.....first my power antenna breaks, now the trunk thing, and the car isn't even on the road or being drivin yet!

I really want to get this fixed soon, can anyone help?

 

[Night Wolf]

Can anyone help?

I just went outside, and saw that my trunk was closed like normal, so I am thinking, woha, I have a car that fixes itself, never getting rid of this (hoping to never get rid of it already though ) so I use the key and open the trunk, the auto thing goes up like it should, I am thinking, this is great, so I close the trunk, and that's it, it dosn't go down again, it is locked and closed, but the auto thing is still all the way up, just like it was...... can anyone help? I tired keeping the negitive terminal off for a bit, it ddn't seem to help, maybe I need to do it longer? should I run the self diagnostic thing? when I do, the dash lights light up, fuel data center displays .70 or something like that, and the ECC displays differnt stuff and "econ" blinks, but any help with this would be very helpful. Thanks

 

[elwesso]

I would say it wouldnt hurt to go ahead and leave the terminal unhooked for a night..... if not, I heard somewhere that people with defunctional motors can take them out, clean em out good, and replace, and they work good!! Maybe something got stuck in it to make it not want to go back down......

 

[Night Wolf]

the thing is, it worked fine before this, I doubt something got jambed in it, as it is not trying to go down or anything, it is just not going down.....I'll go unhook it now for the night, I dunno, maybe tomorrow I will disconnect the battery again for about 30min

But I know it did this after either I disconnected the battery or I ran diagnostics, and I turned the car off before it could finish, becuase it was taking forever and I don't have a service manual (yet) to read the codes or anything......could any of this have anything to do with it?

 

[elwesso]

I highly doubt it....... <I dont think> the computer would have any sort of control over the trunk opener thingy!!!

 

[Night Wolf]

well, I disconnected the battery a few hours ago, in the morning I will connect it, and hope the trunk close thing works.

 

[Night Wolf]

Well, just now (morning) I went out to my car to get a screw driver, and I figured I will give it a try and reconnect the battery, I did, then when I closed the hood and looked at the trunk, it was closed, I was like, cool, so I had to put my wrench back in the tool box, so I went opened the trunk, and then closed it, and it worked, I did it about 3 more times, and it works like normal.

I guess something just had to reset itself, either way it works now, but this is good info for anyone in the future, in the archive or something, just keep the battery disconnected over night.

 

[vanaisa]

there is some kind of switch in this motor body - its good idea to clean and grease this thing - works in my trunk

 

[Night Wolf]

stupid POS

now it's stuck all the way down, I don't really care, at least the trunk is closed all the way, but the power lower thing dosn't work, it's just like a normal trunk, but now my trunk light is always on

ahhh

 

[elwesso]

I think it may be time for some cleaning action....... You took apart the antenna motor, might as well do this one too!!!

Chances are the problem lies in that.... Otherwise your gonna have to get a new motor (that is if you care)

 

[thu]

Panther,

You might want to make sure that the wire connecting to the Lid Pull Down Unit has a clean connection.

Here's what the shop manual says about it (it also has all the schematics and pictures of the component locations and everything). Note that an important part of the Lid Pull Down function (teh Trunk LId Latch Swtich) lives in the trunk lid itself:

Voltage is applied at all times through the Right Hand Underhood Fuse Block Fuse 7 and Relay Center Fuse 1 to the Pull-Down Unit terminal A. When the trunk lid is opened the trunk open/closed switch moves to the OPEN position and the Trunk Lid Latch Switch moves to the UN-LATCHED position. The striker switches are as shown in the schematic (STRIKER DOWN). Battery voltage is applied through the center striker switch to the striker motor. The striker motor is grounded through the right striker switch and the trunk open/closed switch to ground. The striker motor drives the lock striker up to prepare for closing. When the lock striker is fully extended the striker switches move to the STRIKER EXTENDED position. Battery voltage is applied to the striker motor in the opposite direction through the center striker switch. When the trunk lid is closed the striker motor is grounded through the left striker switch and the Trunk Lid latch Switch. The striker motor drives the lock striker down and the trunk lid closes. The striker switches move to the STRIKER DOWN position and the trunk open/closed switch moves to the TRUNK CLOSED position. This removes ground from the striker motor and stops the striker motor from running.

TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS:

Try the following checks before doing the System Check (below):

1. Check that the Pull-Down Unit connector is firmly seated.
2. Check the Right Hand Underhood Fuse Block Fuse 7 and Relay Center Fuse 1 by operating horns <they share the same fuses>
3. Check Instrument Panel Fuse Block Fuse 16 by observing indicators.

SYSTEM CHECK

- Use this System Check Table as a guide to normal operation

Open trunk with vehicle key and raise the lid: Striker should rise to maximum height and TRUNK Warning Indicator lights

Lower trunk lid slowly until lock hook in lid latches striker: Striker will retract, pulling trunk lid closed. TRUNK Warning Indicator turns off.

< well, duh >

Sorry, I know this may be hard to follow without the pics and schematics, but maybe it will help you. If you do have the FSM, It's on Pages 8A-135-0 and -1.

 

[thu]

stupid POS

now it's stuck all the way down, I don't really care, at least the trunk is closed all the way, but the power lower thing dosn't work, it's just like a normal trunk, but now my trunk light is always on

ahhh

Whoah.....you said that your trunk light is always on? That wiring runs along side the Trunk Lid Latch Switch. Check for shorts.

T

 

[thu]

Another thing.....Looks like the switches cost only like $12. I found an excellent thread on this problem over at caddyinfo.com. Use the "Searchable Archives" link and put in:

trunk lid pull

or just:

trunk lid

I found that some of them suspect the upper switch (in the lid). Easy to check with an ohmmeter and costs $12 to $15 to replace.

In any case, check it out. I hope it helps you get your lid pull down to work again.

 

[rickko]

You've got a loose connection somewhere around the pulldown motor/switch. I've seen this before. Check all wire connections.

..rickko..