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'03 Deville
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I needed to replace the transmission on my '03 Deville. The new tranny is all bolted up and filled with fluid to the middle of the cold mark. But when I started the car and shifted through all the gears I'm still got getting anything out of the transmission. I pulled the cooler lines to see if any fluid was pumping, but I'm not getting anything comming out of the lines.

I'm about to pull all my hair out. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could have done wrong or what to check next? And yes I did put the torque converter bolts in.
 

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98 eldo/KD54 w/N37,T96,QA1,D55,DS3,U1Z. U3R next
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Middle of the coldmark?

I thought the fluid could only be checked with the trans running Hot?

How many quarts did you pour in. When I did mine almost 11 quarts got it perfect.

Yet, I had become an expert on the fill procedure due to the fact I "attempted" to repair my original unit.
 

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'03 Deville
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Transmission fluid levels do not change when the engine is running or not. I put in 3 quarts to start with. Even if I did overfill it shouldn't there be some kind of fluid pumping out of the lines going to the cooler?

If this is a dry sump unit and the side case is not the resevoir, then how to do I fill the resevoir that the pump pulls from? And where is it?
 

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you've got to get the transmission fluid up to running temp ... you won't get a correct reading by just turning the car on and checking

go drive a bit and then come back after it's warmed up fully and then check while running in park on a level surface
 

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2001 DeVille
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411 Posts
Chris he doesn't have pump pressure, the car can't be driven. Guys if he took the cooler lines off and found no fluid flow the transmission will not function.

MN VETTE, the front pump drive shaft is a 8" long pen sized dumb-bell shaped shaft that slides into the input shaft mating into the front pump in the trans and mating into the torque convertor cover on the outer end. Without the torque converter on it can freely slide out, as in fall out in handling unnoticed. Did your input shaft have a small hex nipple sticking out about an inch on it's outer end before you slid the converter on? It would be easy to over look if it wasn't there. Without it your front pump, the main pump that is, isn't being driven at all. If it is there then either the front pump just doesn't work or you have a internal hydraulic leak so large that you can't even push fluid out of an open cooler pipe. I honestly don't know anyway to check for any of these with the transmission in the car once you know you don't have hydraulic pressure or flow. Damn the bad luck.

While looking for a picture of this part I found this you should also read and check:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/2001-cadillac-deville-4t80e-problems-213327.html

EDIT I just got to my shop and looked over mine which is pulled right now and I can't firgure out which mount or bolt that guy in the hotrodders forum is talking about. Nothing looks to come near the shaft so IDK.

Best I could find:http://www.importperformancetrans.com/images/trans/gm/4t65-e.jpg

Vernon
 

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03 STS
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I got a used trans last fall. Came with conv which fell out when I was putting trans on trans jack. Yes, I did see the small, hex shaft inside the splined extension. I even checked my old trans for the same part. The OP did a swap just like I did. I assume he got a different conv? Did he remove conv to see if hex shaft was there?
 

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'03 Deville
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
thanks for the input guys. So the tranny is a used speciman that I picked up. As far as I know the torque converter has not been off the tranny, atleast while I have had it. I did reseat the converter at one point to make sure it was on all the way before it was jacked into place. But when I installed it the converter was about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch space between the torque converter and the flywheel. Usually, on other tranny's I've done, if the torque converter is not on correctly it will not allow you to have that space. But I guess that does not mean that the hex drive is in there. I did find it on my old tranny when i pulled the torque converter off. I guess I can call the guy that I got it from and ask him if the converter ever came off.



EDIT: I talked with the guy that pulled it out of an '04 Deville and he said that the converter never came off. He suggested that I take it to the dealer and get the transmission reflashed. Will going from one year transmission to another have issues with the computers somehow? I'm not sure if the guy knows what he's talking about or was just hoping to feed me a line so he didn't have to talk to me.
 

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'03 Deville
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I spend 7 hours last night pulling out the tranny. And guess what, no pump drive shaft. So I dropped in the one from my old transmission. Hopefully I'll be able to slap it all back together today and test it out.
 

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2001 DeVille
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411 Posts
These cars do not facilitate the "Northstar novice" pro much less the average DIYer. MNVette you're not the only one who gets kicked in the teeth trying to repair one of these monstrosity's. After boogering up my torque converter bushing with a wayward seal spring I ended up spending $1,000 at the trans shop having my unit overhauled with a seal and clutch kit w/ converter. So after that last week I re-assembled the power-train on the sub-frame and got the chassis up on the lift. I had left my CV axles in the chassis (oh with a spare sub-frame and steering rack btw). So I start pulling my axles out of the hubs. Originally the LH side had pulled the internal axle from the trans out with it. This is a shaft that goes from the LH CV axle inner joint to the differential in the RH end of the tail shaft. Well I noticed the internal axle shaft has a loose and obviously spun bearing shell on the outer end of it. After some investigation I determine this is the famed LH axle support bushing that when failed causes incurable LH axle leak and requires partial trans dis-assembly to repair. Looking in the hole I can't see anything wrong so I had to stop my install this Sat., which is my only day off with access to the shop, just to wait until Mon. when I can ask the re-builder if he noticed the missing bushing and replaced it. This is not likely. I'm hoping it can be easily fixed, and at least without taking the whole thing back apart since it is out of the chassis right now. If anything it's set me back another week and untold dollars.

This is just my current crisis in the middle of re-sealing my bottom end and studding the block brought on by a lost head bolt tension. I've had a bunch of situations just like yours and mine while doing this job since last OCT. There are way too many ways to fail of both the Northstar power-train itself and the poor sap who chooses to repair one of them for me to stomach anymore. This is my first and will be my last personal Northstar vehicle and I pray that I get another 100K out of it or I'll junk it without a regret, at some point you have to cut your loses and walk away and this car has already used up my patience. If I had known I wouldn't have fixed it at all in reality. The thing is that for most people the repair costs will often be in excess of what it's worth. I doubt I'll be using all of these special tools I've accumulated to do this work now, maybe I'll rent them out to future DIYer's. My repair estimates will be too high to get most jobs, but at least nobody will be naive, me or a customer.

Good luck bro, we need it.
Vernon
 

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98 eldo/KD54 w/N37,T96,QA1,D55,DS3,U1Z. U3R next
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Vernon,

You stated a lot in your post. It's true and I've even stated it, these aren't "user friendly" powerstrains. You need a lot of patience with these things. Again, as you stated you have to know when to cut your loses.

They are lovely cars when they are cooperating, but when they start acting up they'll test your patience.

I hope all your repairs will be minor ones.........
 

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2001 DeVille
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411 Posts
Hey thanks Jake, I hope so too. I found the bushing available separate from an aftermarket vendor (Omega Machine) and I believe I can seat it in my clean 3rd clutch housing from the axle seal opening. I'm going to try it at least. I'm very frustrated with the car right now and just want it running again. I'm very close. I'll be scared of it for months I'm sure.

Vernon
 

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'03 Deville
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My one big fear is that I'm going to get this transmission into place and then find out that it doesn't work or that the tranny starts leaking out of the seals with the bearing problem. The output shafts are a little wiggle in them, but I'm not sure where the cut off point is for what is good or bad. It didn't look like it was leaking at all.
 
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