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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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'Fuel pressure test yielded 15 psi max at idle'

Don't have the book here in my phone...40-45psi I do believe is spec. Just a few seconds after key-on.
Pump or filter or regulator, or a combo.

This would cause a lot of the symptoms you describe.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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86,304 Posts
Fuel pressure test yielded 15 psi max at idle. Can we determine from that that there is a pressure issue?
There's your problem. The good news is that the fuel pump is accessible through an access panel in the trunk. No need to drop the tank.

P.S.
Enterprise is correct. 40 - 45 psi is the spec'd pressure.
It will run with 35 and maybe even 30 psi, but certainly not at 15.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
EDIT. Rainstorm broke and I pulled the FPR vacuum hose while the car was running and gas came from somewhere very briskly. Not shooting out the nipple but probably running out too fast to wait to turn the car off, so I hurried and shut it off. So, the rest of this discussion below was prior to pulling the hose.

I swapped a used pump in and the car was much better (that car had it's fuel pump changed already). My car would now rev under load but still not at WOT. To the floor I had to let off some and let it ease into accelerating, but it would go. But at least I can work on other things. Not so fast, fumble!

Because I took it to the trans shop for trans code reading. Turned it off, they plugged their portable reader in for a road test and as soon as I tried to start it, it was back to having the exact fuel delivery problem. Barely made it through the test drive and then back home doing the exact thing all over again. I'm going to have a look at the regulator, amd possibly another pump.

It's pouring rain right now but I'm going to pull the vacuum hose on the fpr. Would an EGR cause this? Fuel regulator? I changed the fuel filter already.

Codes:
P0151 History (O2 sensor)
P0171 Current (this is a lean bank I guess)
P0732 History (incorrect 2nd gear ratio)
P1106 History (Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage )
P1404 History (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Closed Position Performance)
 

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Super Moderator
White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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86,304 Posts
ANY gas at the FPR vacuum hose means it is faulty.
A used fuel pump can be questionable. You won't know until you check the fuel pressure.
A stuck (partially) open EGR valve could also be the culprit. Pull it and clean the pintle valve. Be sure it moves freely with no sticking open, closed or anywhere in it's travel.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
I think the leak started with the pump replacement because now when it cranks/starts fuel appears to be leaking and it looks like it's coming from the bottom of the regulator.

That EGR piston moved very freely when I took it off. I didn't clean it really well, but I hosed the bottom area with carb cleaner holding it upright. The piston easily could be depressed and released with a punch like tool. No hanging up. I'm going to swap another I have after cleaning it up and see how that works.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
Alright, the smaller of the 2 FPR O-rings got torn and it was just stupidity that caused the whole issue from when I removed the fuel rail to clean and purge the injectors of bad gas. The regulator still had the smell of bad gas even though I ran the tank empty while doing the starter/fuel injectors and I've fueled it a couple of times with $10 at a time. I just replaced the o-ring and the car now runs like a car should now. Whew. BTW, I couldn't find a new o-ring of similar thickness at NAPA or O'reilley's so I carefully removed one off of a donor car.

So, the only code I'm setting of importance after driving it a few miles and then to the gas station is the P0732 which is the 2nd gear ratio incorrect one. It probably did it when I tried to kick it down at 40 mph. Hasn't set the EGR ones yet. At cold start up you have to give it gas pedal to keep it from dying but it's good after several seconds, while still hunting some.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
I found a good used driver side power window dealio but not in my color. But I took both apart to make a good one with my correct color combo. Everything functions now. I pushed the EXIT button and got a surprise at all the adjustments I goofed up by pushing that one little button.
One keyless remote functions.
Driver side window does not like going down and up very healthily. There will be a problem there soon. LR doesn't operate.
Pass mirror makes noise like it's doing something but doesn't do anything. Saw a motor at my favorite yard today I'll grab.
Still have to correct my coolant level low issue, then the A/C. Also need some tires.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Well, the car now is code free until the trans code sets again--and the IPM B0409 door. But the Low Coolant message has me swapping the expansion tank. However, I don't find a preference posted about what to do about the rubber quick disconnect nipple on the bottom of the tank when it doesn't fit the heater hose. My old tank was cut back so the hose fits directly to the plastic.The replacement tank has the intact nipple as it came from the factory.

Is it recommended to cut the tank nipple or find a rubber sleeve to mate the different sized hose to the rubber nipple? I searched. I asked on another thread, and no reply. I tried clamping it on the rubber nipple but with the poor fit it leaks.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
Since nobody has an opinion I'm going to suggest cutting off the rubber nipple/quick connect because the additional rigid nipple extends the torque arm on the reservoir, possibly increasing likelihood of a crack in the plastic at the tank body. In the same way a longer wrench compounds leverage on a fastener, the extended, rigid hard rubber nipple compounds the leverage on the plastic whereever it doesn't bend.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,164 Posts
Just remember: The engine moves an inch or so toward the firewall during normal driving, the surge tank does not.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
Ok. Checking it I see plenty of slack on the hose still for when I mod the nipple.

I removed the battery due to a BUNCH of battery acid in the battery compartment (my vent drain was severed). After cleaning it out and replacing the battery the car cold started differently. I didn't have to feather the throttle to keep it idling for a few seconds while cold. Now it revs to 1250 ish for a while then settles back to 800 ish. Not 650. There's something to be said for disconnecting the battery.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,164 Posts
Your comments and research on the surge tank coolant level sensor replacement have been moved to their own thread.

Let's try to keep one problem in one thread for continuity and search ease.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
Does anyone know what codes would be set by having the wrong final drive in my '01 DTS? Say a Y code used trans was installed instead of a 9 code one. Because I still have the 2nd GEAR INCORRECT RATIO setting and no auto shift to 2nd. I can still manually select 2nd gear.
 

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Alexandra - 96 SDV Clyde - 15 Silvy
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Not sure. Are you throwing any other codes than the 2 gear one you've been getting?

It would seem like an electrical thing, though Cadillacs have been known to do strange things.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
No transmission codes at all. Not even the 2nd gear ratio incorrect message anymore. Yesterday I tried to get it to set but it won't. The only codes have been one O2 sensor, lean code on that bank, over rev on the engine and an oil pressure code from romping on it. I took it on the interstate to hit passing gear several times trying to see if trans codes would set, but none did.
 

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2001 DTS
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
It runs well. Starts easy, idles pretty smoothly. Never stumbles, no flat spots. But consumes coolant and the exhaust is very misty especially for several minutes while warming up. And sometimes occasionally I see it when backing up, coming over the decklid. Makes me wonder if it quits consuming after things heat up.
I searched pages and pages about the transmission issue and found no other mentions of such symtoms. There were detailed threads with many responding, but I noticed some of the names are not active on this forum anymore.
 
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