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Discussion Starter #101
Do you need the part number for the magnet that sits in the bottom of the transmission pan?
No thank you, however the information could be useful for someone else that may read this thread.

I have two round magnets stacked in my oil pan that pull a lot of fine metals out of the fluid.
 

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So now that you installed the servo...how does it perform?? Is it a big improvement and do you recommend other people do it also?
 

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Discussion Starter #103
So now that you installed the servo...how does it perform?? Is it a big improvement and do you recommend other people do it also?
I do not know yet, because I am still putting the Escalade back together.

I have to install the driver side exhaust gasket since the transmission shop did not replace it when they moved the transmission. I also assume the passenger side need a gasket as well becuase I do have an leaking exhaust rattle noise, however I will not tackle that side yet due to dealing with broken studs on the driver side when I removed the y-pipe bolts.
i will hopefully have the truck running by next Monday.
 
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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
Man, working on an old truck is frustrating sometimes. I tried to use a stud puller and it broke the already broken stud flush in the exhaust manifold. Now it has to be drilled out. Impossible with the exhaust manifold on the engine, therefore I will just buy a new Dorman driver side manifold since I really do not want to drill and tap the old one which is warped anyway due to broken bolts and it is held by Doman manifold repair brackets.

Since I have to remove the old manifold and possibly break more manifold bolts, then I will just use a new manifold with new studs. If I am going to drill and extract, then I only want to do it on the manifold head bolts in aluminum which is easier to remove studs. It would a big waste of time trying to extract the broken stud in the rusty iron manifold without a torch. This work is a pain in the ass, but necessary since the transmission shop did not use new exhaust gaskets or y-pipe fittings.

I was assuming the y-pipe bolts would be easy to remove since the shop removed it recently to install the transmission but it seem they just used an impact on the bolts to forced them on the dirty rusted studs without cleaning them or using any anti-seize. Not surprised.

Hell, one of my transmission pan bolts was missing and some of the bolts the shop used did not even have a washer on the bolts. So, I needed to sort it out anyway. Piss me off since I would expect a professional shop to do a better job than me when it comes to installing parts taken off.

Well, the transmission is done. I used a new Dorman transmission pan with the correct bolts with washers. I also will paint my transmission heat shield with reflective paint to help keep the transmission pan cool.

My next post on this will be on the Corvette servo performance; while the exhaust repair will be in a new thread about exhaust manifold replacement.

Transmission pan corrections nearly done; just need heat shield,starter cover and fluid.
 
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Man, working on an old truck is frustrating sometimes. I tried to use a stud puller and it broke the already broken stud flush in the exhaust manifold. Now it has to be drilled out. Impossible with the exhaust manifold on the engine, therefore I will just buy a new Dorman driver side manifold since I really do not want to drill and tap the old one which is warped anyway due to broken bolts and it is held by Doman manifold repair brackets.

Since I have to remove the old manifold and possibly break more manifold bolts, then I will just use a new manifold with new studs. If I am going to drill and extract, then I only want to do it on the manifold head bolts in aluminum which is easier to remove studs. It would a big waste of time trying to extract the broken stud in the rusty iron manifold without a torch. This work is a pain in the ass, but necessary since the transmission shop did not use new exhaust gaskets or y-pipe fittings.

I was assuming the y-pipe bolts would be easy to remove since the shop removed it recently to install the transmission but it seem they just used an impact on the bolts to forced them on the dirty rusted studs without cleaning them or using any anti-seize. Not surprised.

Hell, one of my transmission pan bolts was missing and some of the bolts the shop used did not even have a washer on the bolts. So, I needed to sort it out anyway. Piss me off since I would expect a professional shop to do a better job than me when it comes to installing parts taken off.

Well, the transmission is done. I used a new Dorman transmission pan with the correct bolts with washers. I also will paint my transmission heat shield with reflective paint to help keep the transmission pan cool.

My next post on this will be on the Corvette servo performance; while the exhaust repair will be in a new thread about exhaust manifold replacement.

Transmission pan corrections nearly done; just need heat shield,starter cover and fluid.
Glad the shallow pan fits correctly now. My guess is that auto shops try to do things fast because people don't have patients so they try to get the job done as quick as possible and forget things or they're to lazy and hope the person who brought the vehicle in is an idiot and won't notice they they cut corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
Glad the shallow pan fits correctly now. My guess is that auto shops try to do things fast because people don't have patients so they try to get the job done as quick as possible and forget things or they're to lazy and hope the person who brought the vehicle in is an idiot and won't notice they they cut corners.
Thank you.

You are probably correct that the shop workers was trying to get the job done quickly and assumed that I would not have noticed the missing parts until years later; if at all. By that time a few other repair shops would have put their hand on it if I did not do my own work. Hell, the workers probably lost the parts since the repair bay was very dirty(old oil on the floor) and full of various parts thrown everywhere when I went to the shop to check on my truck.

The engine ran fine except for a small exhaust leak(ticking sound); so an average person would never had been the wiser that transmission/exhaust was not put back together as it was.

The pan I have is actually considered a factory deep transmission pan for the 4L65E, just like the stock pan.
 

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Thank you.

You are probably correct that the shop workers was trying to get the job done quickly and assumed that I would not have noticed the missing parts until years later; if at all. By that time a few other repair shops would have put their hand on it if I did not do my own work. Hell, the workers probably lost the parts since the repair bay was very dirty(old oil on the floor) and full of various parts thrown everywhere when I went to the shop to check on my truck.

The engine ran fine except for a small exhaust leak(ticking sound); so an average person would never had been the wiser that transmission/exhaust was not put back together as it was.

The pan I have is actually considered a factory deep transmission pan for the 4L65E, just like the stock pan.
that's odd because when I look up the vehicle you have it only shows the shallow pan fitting your SUV and not both.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
that's odd because when I look up the vehicle you have it only shows the shallow pan fitting your SUV and not both.
Where did you lookup the information?

Could you post the link?

The stock deep pans have a lip that goes under the exhaust pipe; while stock shallow pans do not have a lip and is very shallow.

Most 4L65E truck/SUV transmissions from 2002-2006 has the deep pan with the lip from the factory;including my 2006 model. Both pans would work on the 1999-2006 Escalade models, however you must use the proper filter with each pan. So a part search would have most of the 4L60/4L65E equipped models as compatible regardless of pan size selected.

Deep stock pan

Shallow stock pan on older models
 

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Where did you lookup the information?

Could you post the link?

The stock deep pans have a lip that goes under the exhaust pipe; while stock shallow pans do not have a lip and is very shallow.

Most 4L65E truck/SUV transmissions from 2002-2006 has the deep pan with the lip from the factory;including my 2006 model. Both pans would work on the 1999-2006 Escalade models, however you must use the proper filter with each pan. So a part search would have most of the 4L60/4L65E equipped models as compatible regardless of pan size selected.

Deep stock pan

Shallow stock pan on older models

scroll to about halfway down the page and only the shallow pan is listed also when I go to Dorman's website it only lists the shallow pan for the 2006 Cadillac Escalade.

 

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Discussion Starter #110

scroll to about halfway down the page and only the shallow pan is listed also when I go to Dorman's website it only lists the shallow pan for the 2006 Cadillac Escalade.

That pan listed is the deep stock pan and the one I have.
 

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I stand corrected that is the deep pan currently on your vehicle. I got mixed up because the Dorman pan fit correctly but the other pan didn't so in my mind I automatically thought that you used the shallow pan instead and that is why It didn't fit. So sorry about that what a dumb mistake. I am happy though that I gave you the correct part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
I stand corrected that is the deep pan currently on your vehicle. I got mixed up because the Dorman pan fit correctly but the other pan didn't so in mid mind I automatically that you used the shallow pan instead and that is why It didn't fit. So sorry about that what a dumb mistake. I am happy though that I gave you the correct part numbers.
No sweat.

I really did not know about deep or shallow pans before I had to change one on my Caddy. The transmission filter choice also is new to me as well since GM made two different type of filters that goes with the respective pan type. However, part suppliers list both pans and filters as an correct fitment option based off the transmission model 4L65E; not the specific vehicle model.

I am learning not to just buy 4L65E parts without looking at measurements and doing some in-depth research first; like with the B&M pan. It may fit my Caddy with the correct filter, but the company need to be more specific with what filter to use based on year and model of vehicle it will be installed in; since GM changed the 4L60/4L65E design a few times from 1997-2007. I decided to just stick with what I know works like the Dorman transmission pan.

Thank you again for the part numbers.
 

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No sweat.

I really did not know about deep or shallow pans before I had to change one on my Caddy. The transmission filter choice also is new to me as well since GM made two different type of filters that goes with the respective pan type. However, part suppliers list both pans and filters as an correct fitment option based off the transmission model 4L65E; not the specific vehicle model.

I am learning not to just buy 4L65E parts without looking at measurements and doing some in-depth research first; like with the B&M pan. It may fit my Caddy, but the company need to be more specific with what filter to use based on year and model of vehicle it will be installed in; since GM changed the 4L60/4L65E design a few times from 1997-2007. I decided to just stick with what I know works like the Dorman transmission pan.

Thank you again for the part numbers.
Thank you fro understanding. You're welcome
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
Finally got the Caddy running. The exhaust shield seems to keep the temps down, but it still got up to about 190F after my 1 hour drive tonight. Therefore, I would have to point the finger at the black cooler that I have installed. Next, i will swap out the black cooler and install the unpainted one.

Furthermore, I read that it is recommended to use a new cooler when an old cooler gets contaminated with fine metal debris from a failed transmission. Flushing usually do not clear out the small passages in the cooler in most cases.

The Corvette servo did firm up the 1-2 shifts a lot, especially under WOT. It kicks into gear hard in WOT, but it seems to removed all the slippage. Shifts from 1-2 in normal acceleration is perfect; just firm with no hard jerking or slipping like before. However, stump on the gas and it will shift hard from 1-2 and pull like a train; not a smooth shift under WOT like the transmission shop owner told me for sure, but I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #116 (Edited)
Today I installed the new cooler and it worked pretty good on the test at idle with no leaks. I also used an air gun to blow it out so hopefully no debris is left inside from the manufacturing process.

Note: I used the air gun to blow out the old cooler and it was full of metal debris, so the shop probably did not flush it after installing the new transmission. Big surprise. So the old cooler was not flowing well due to a blockage.

Hopefully the new cooler with keep the transmission temps in the 150-170F range after my hour drive.

New cooler installed.


Metal filled transmission fluid(cloudy areas and star like spots in the fluid) that was blown out of the old cooler.
 
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