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2013 CTS Luxury, 1998 Eldorado ETC Crimson Pearl
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone had their transmission coolant lines replaced?
I had my oil changed at the dealer recently and was shown how my trans coolant lines have a small drip where the collar crimps to the line.
The dealer is telling me it will cost $600 to replace since they have to raise or lower the engine or cradle which is surprising..

Alldatadiy mentions something about a VO3 option and depending if you have it or not, you have to raise the engine and disconnect part of the steering to replace the lines. Does anyone know what VO3 means?

I'm not happy to have a big expense for a piece of crap coolant line and really dont trust the stealership.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 馃檮
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VO3 is the performance cooling system.
Check your RPO codes to see if you have it.
 

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08 CTS DI
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I discovered I have that option a few months back after doing some cleaning and realizing I already have the transmission cooler, that I was intending to install. Unfortunately the lines still pass through the radiator cooler for temp stabilization. If I ever run into this problem, I'll have a terrible slip up and cut the bad line in half, then replace the bad end and repair it with a more convenient option. I think they call it a splice. For $600, you can replace the rigid, steel, preformed lines with stainless steel braided hose and have a lot of change left over plus a more durable part, as this is not an uncommon problem it appears considering you are the second person in about a week to have such an issue.

Most fittings can be purchased in the aftermarket for such upgrades, provided you, or the person performing the repair can figure out the name of the fitting in order to source it. I believe it's called a Bundy fitting. I would take it to a transmission shop (performance preferably) for a second opinion as the dealer is going to be bound by GM parts and repair protocol and the Cadillac tax.
 

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2013 CTS Luxury, 1998 Eldorado ETC Crimson Pearl
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys.. I confirmed I dont have the VO3 option..not listed on the RPO tag...and figured there has to be a way to repair the line for much less $
 

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08 CTS DI
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If it's corroded, take care of it right away. The first generation CTS had problems like this on occasion where the transmission fluid could be contaminated by engine coolant. I'm not sure if the potential for this to occur in the second gen was corrected. Although the radiator is different, the same fitting type and arrangement may have been used.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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I may remember that if the fittings are badly corroded you may end up replacing the entire radiator. I could be wrong.
 

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2013 CTS Luxury, 1998 Eldorado ETC Crimson Pearl
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Discussion Starter #7
I certainly hope not..
I bought the car in 2016 with 14k on it.. (now has 62k) and was pretty clean underneath and still is.
Even the dealer commented on the condition of the car inside and out when they showed me the leaking line.
Nothing looked corroded underneath... fingers crossed
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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Then you should be good in that regard. Good luck.
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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I had this happen on our old SRX. I cut the line with a small tube cutter, removed about 1/2" length with a microscopic hole, and patched in a length of brake hose using small hose clamps. That was over a year ago and it has held perfectly since then.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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I had this happen on our old SRX. I cut the line with a small tube cutter, removed about 1/2" length with a microscopic hole, and patched in a length of brake hose using small hose clamps. That was over a year ago and it has held perfectly since then.
At least you used the word "patch", really couldn't consider that a proper repair worthy of a road trip.
 

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At least you used the word "patch", really couldn't consider that a proper repair worthy of a road trip.
It should be fine as long as the proper type of oil hose is used, but I'd make extra sure it was sound and secure. The flow should be a low pressure feed from the transmission from what I recall so when you consider that at least a decade went by before GM switched from hose clamps on rubber fuel hoses from the tank connections to the body mounted lines on fuel injected cars that were sometimes running more than 50 psi, he shouldn't have a problem, although they did double clamp the high pressure hose at both ends.
 

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It should be fine as long as the proper type of oil hose is used, but I'd make extra sure it was sound and secure. The flow should be a low pressure feed from the transmission from what I recall so when you consider that at least a decade went by before GM switched from hose clamps on rubber fuel hoses from the tank connections to the body mounted lines on fuel injected cars that were sometimes running more than 50 psi, he shouldn't have a problem, although they did double clamp the high pressure hose at both ends.
Without a rolled bead for the hose to clamp onto it is Oklahoma Engineering. It's his car, not my problem. But if you post it on the forum . . .
 

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Without a rolled bead for the hose to clamp onto it is Oklahoma Engineering. It's his car, not my problem. But if you post it on the forum . . .
Not familiar with that construct, but I only say it shouldn't be a problem because I've disconnected a trans cooler line a time or two before and run the motor to pump some of the fluid out and it didn't exit with a threatening velocity. It's all just information for pondering.
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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In fairness, I did it as a patch to get the car to my local garage for them to do a proper job of it. They looked at what I had done and deemed it fine, that anything more permanent would require running new tubing, which I wasn't prepared to do at the time given other issues with the car. I inspect it every time I get under that car - which is every two to three months - and it has held extremely tightly. Definitely a FWIW and a YMMV sort of thing. But it has held quite snuggly as the external rust on the line on either side of my cut is acting like a barbed fitting for the hose. I agree that it's shade tree mechanic stuff and I would not do this is a permanent fix on my CTS.

Now, I am feeling bad. Geez...
 

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Thank you for sharing, Northern-
I appreciate your contributions here on these pages.
 

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Now, I am feeling bad. Geez...
Wasted energy. It doesn't have to be perfect, or even neat on your own vehicle, it just has to work dependably so mission accomplished. The mechanic saying it was fine is reassuring so,,,,, beer money if you drink beer.
 

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2008 SRX4 & 2010 CTS4 sedan / Non-Cadillacs: 2018 Audi Q5, 2012 Chev Cruze LT
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Wasted energy. It doesn't have to be perfect, or even neat on your own vehicle, it just has to work dependably so mission accomplished. The mechanic saying it was fine is reassuring so,,,,, beer money if you drink beer.
Thanks (and to you too, Long). I own a tube fairing tool kit so my only excuse is that my patch has held - and may outlast the rest of the car!
 

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Thanks (and to you too, Long). I own a tube fairing tool kit so my only excuse is that my patch has held - and may outlast the rest of the car!
People in much less harsh climates sometimes don't fully comprehend this ^^^^
Personally, I would be more inclined to keep my vehicles indefinitely if not for the fact that salt & brine have already made reservations for my fleet. There are instances when preservation becomes the primary concern; weighing the repair vs the remaining lifespan of the vehicle in question.
 

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People in much less harsh climates sometimes don't fully comprehend this ^^^^
Personally, I would be more inclined to keep my vehicles indefinitely if not for the fact that salt & brine have already made reservations for my fleet. There are instances when preservation becomes the primary concern; weighing the repair vs the remaining lifespan of the vehicle in question.
Precisely.

My CTS has fared well in this regard and has been worth the repairs. The rust on the SRX is a big problem and it is in the realm of a winter beater these days.
 
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