Well hopefully there will be some good parts left in it and you won't have to buy a whole new one.
Good luck man!
Good luck man!
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Thankis for the link. I'll add them to my list of people I get prices from 
Well, here is what I found. It's not good.
The reverse gear bearing failed. Took out the reverse gear I.D., Main shaft, reverse synchro, and a plethora of other hardware. IDK why it failed, which is a little frustrating. Fluid was changed about 12k miles ago, w/Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
Here are some pics for the very bored...
It's a lot of carnage for no beatage.
Well, here is what I found. It's not good.
The reverse gear bearing failed. Took out the reverse gear I.D., Main shaft, reverse synchro, and a plethora of other hardware. IDK why it failed, which is a little frustrating. Fluid was changed about 12k miles ago, w/Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
Here are some pics for the very bored...
It's a lot of carnage for no beatage.
8
Finally got it back together and running. Took a while... first deciding the best route to take, which turned out to be fixing it myself, then order parts, parts came, and that is when I discovered that parts had changed, which required... more parts. That took another week to get, then I got it together and in the car Friday. Grand total for parts was ~$900.00 from Rockland Standard Gear. Ouch... but small potatoes compared to a trans assy.
Here is a pic w/it disassembled. Reminds me of Dr. Seuss, and "poor Herbie Hart, who apparently has taken his “Thromdibulator” apart". Anyway...
So, apparently there was a "design change" to the mainshaft at some point, the way the 1-2 synchro hub is retained to the shaft. That necessitates a new first gear and the retainer parts. Here is a pic of the two shafts, side by side. Note the width of the snap ring groove by the synchro hub:
The snap ring groove on the new shaft is nearly 1/4" wide!. The "new design" uses two 1/2 circle pieces that fit in that wide groove, and then a collar slides over those, to retain them. The "new design" first gear has a groove machined out of the ID on the synchro side, and that fits over the retaining ring to hold it in place. I wonder what was wrong w/the first design, a simple snap ring? The re-design cost me an extra ~$300.00. :annoyed:
Here are a few more random pics during reassembly....
And finally, back in the car...
Here are the parts that were left over; either damaged, or not reused as a result of the update:
So.....does it work??
Like I said, finished it up Friday night, then Saturday morning, it drove great on the way to the dyno-day, where it put down a slightly disappointing 325-338 RWHP... but didn't break or make any noises. :lol: From there, I drove to the local drag track and did a few T&T passes w/the car and it handled all of that hard use gracefully and w/o issue. I filled the trans w/Pennzoil Synchromesh, and it shifts the best it ever has, at this point, but in general, it seems great! Quiet, smooth... hopefully the reverse bearing holds up for another 125k miles... or longer! We'll see. I'll tell you what... that trans is a LOT more complex than the Borg Warner T-5, and other manual trans I've rebuilt!
Here is a pic w/it disassembled. Reminds me of Dr. Seuss, and "poor Herbie Hart, who apparently has taken his “Thromdibulator” apart". Anyway...
So, apparently there was a "design change" to the mainshaft at some point, the way the 1-2 synchro hub is retained to the shaft. That necessitates a new first gear and the retainer parts. Here is a pic of the two shafts, side by side. Note the width of the snap ring groove by the synchro hub:
The snap ring groove on the new shaft is nearly 1/4" wide!. The "new design" uses two 1/2 circle pieces that fit in that wide groove, and then a collar slides over those, to retain them. The "new design" first gear has a groove machined out of the ID on the synchro side, and that fits over the retaining ring to hold it in place. I wonder what was wrong w/the first design, a simple snap ring? The re-design cost me an extra ~$300.00. :annoyed:
Here are a few more random pics during reassembly....
And finally, back in the car...
Here are the parts that were left over; either damaged, or not reused as a result of the update:
So.....does it work??
Like I said, finished it up Friday night, then Saturday morning, it drove great on the way to the dyno-day, where it put down a slightly disappointing 325-338 RWHP... but didn't break or make any noises. :lol: From there, I drove to the local drag track and did a few T&T passes w/the car and it handled all of that hard use gracefully and w/o issue. I filled the trans w/Pennzoil Synchromesh, and it shifts the best it ever has, at this point, but in general, it seems great! Quiet, smooth... hopefully the reverse bearing holds up for another 125k miles... or longer! We'll see. I'll tell you what... that trans is a LOT more complex than the Borg Warner T-5, and other manual trans I've rebuilt!
7
Sure thing. Wish I'd have known about it before I started!
Not sure i understand what you're saying...Sure thing. Wish I'd have known about it before I started!
Based on your shifter base mod, I modded my base the same way but had to abandon it right after putting it in because I had to realign the driveshaft and I made the base too tall to allow for that. I tried to quickly mod it so I could put it back in the car but I ran out if time so I slapped the stock one back on.
So what I was wondering is have you had a chance to drive a stock v and compare it directly to yours with them modified shifter base?
Thanks!
Sorry, I was replying to the poster above who said thanks for the manual.
I have not driven a stock V since doing the shifter base mod. Only comparison I have is when mine was stock to when mine was modded. I still like the design and think that it is the right way for a shifter to be supported. When I had the trans apart, I was this close to having a machine shop lengthen the rear shift rail so that it protruded from the rear of the trans, and tying it into the shifter directly w/a s precision U joint. That, IMO, would complete the solution to the 'V's shifting deficiency -eliminating the ~20 pieces between your hand, and the internal shift rail. But...I didn't do it. What I've got now is the modified base, Pissnuoff's Hurst shifter and it works pretty darn good. It's quiet and I didn't use any of the rubber isolators to deaden sound. Good enough.
I have not driven a stock V since doing the shifter base mod. Only comparison I have is when mine was stock to when mine was modded. I still like the design and think that it is the right way for a shifter to be supported. When I had the trans apart, I was this close to having a machine shop lengthen the rear shift rail so that it protruded from the rear of the trans, and tying it into the shifter directly w/a s precision U joint. That, IMO, would complete the solution to the 'V's shifting deficiency -eliminating the ~20 pieces between your hand, and the internal shift rail. But...I didn't do it. What I've got now is the modified base, Pissnuoff's Hurst shifter and it works pretty darn good. It's quiet and I didn't use any of the rubber isolators to deaden sound. Good enough.
Food for thought...I've got a spare transmission laying around....Sorry, I was replying to the poster above who said thanks for the manual.
I have not driven a stock V since doing the shifter base mod. Only comparison I have is when mine was stock to when mine was modded. I still like the design and think that it is the right way for a shifter to be supported. When I had the trans apart, I was this close to having a machine shop lengthen the rear shift rail so that it protruded from the rear of the trans, and tying it into the shifter directly w/a s precision U joint. That, IMO, would complete the solution to the 'V's shifting deficiency -eliminating the ~20 pieces between your hand, and the internal shift rail. But...I didn't do it. What I've got now is the modified base, Pissnuoff's Hurst shifter and it works pretty darn good. It's quiet and I didn't use any of the rubber isolators to deaden sound. Good enough.
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