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Tips for replacing front engine mount

20K views 165 replies 16 participants last post by  scanssystems  
#1 ·
Hello everybody!
My next oncoming project is front engine mount. Got mount, got tools.. working on getting good weather..
As manual I'm going to use this thread http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/239484-seville-front-motor-mount-replacement-how.html even it is not about Deville, I'm pretty sure that kind of the stuff looks absolutely the same. This is the best step by step thread with pictures I found. Now I can understand what is going on.
I will appreciate all tips because I didn't start yet and want to make it same day w/o problems. Also my question, will I need 25" breaker bar or 18" will be fine? I know, cradle bolts high torqued.

Thanks everybody!

Image
 
#68 ·
Mine installed: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/New-O-E-M-Front-Engine-Mount-00-05-Cadillac-Deville-01-03-Olds-Aurora-MORE-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqF,!lMF!iFJh4nmBQPS0EgKQ!~~60_12.JPG
W/O HY: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Deville-Aurora-Front-Left-Auto-Trans-Mount-A5302-3020-25759455-/00/s/NjQyWDQ4MA==/z/jOEAAOxyaTxRJUFC/$T2eC16dHJGYE9noojie6BRJUFCk55g~~60_12.JPG
 
#80 ·
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Please, say something about mount!!!!!
OK - I went to the DEA Products website -

http://www.deaproducts.com/

filled in your information - 01 Deville - here is what they have -

A2895 - FRONT RIGHT MOUNT - SOLID OPTION -
A2895HY - FRONT RIGHT MOUNT - OEM HYDRAULIC

A2896 - TRANS REAR LEFT - SOLID OPTION -
A2896HY - TRANS REAR LEFT - OEM HYDRAULIC

A5302HY - TRANS FRONT LEFT - OEM HYDRAULIC

they do not list a "solid mount" A5302 -
I also did a search for "DEA A5302" - and those that did come up -
also had the word HYDRAULIC in the listing -
so I believe ALL the A5302 mounts are HYDRAULIC - A5302HY mounts -
 
#82 ·
I got A5302HY. Why do they say "OEM"??? I though they are really OEM!

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:banghead:
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because they are made to the same specs/dimensions as the original -
and will fit like the original - doesn't mean the QUALITY is the same -

personally - I prefer Anchor brand mounts over DEA -
that's what I used in my SLS -

the Anchor 3020 is what the Deville uses -

Rockauto has the best price - $50 with shipping -
 
#86 ·
This is bulls#$t!!
I have installed new OEM mount and guess what?? Same stuff! It acts absolutely the same as my previous aftermarket! The bottom just stretches out same way I showed in the video! What's a hell???!!!

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Maybe I have problems with Transmission mount or Trans/Engine rear mount?
 
#87 ·
This is bulls#$t!!
I have installed new OEM mount and guess what?? Same stuff! It acts absolutely the same as my previous aftermarket! The bottom just stretches out same way I showed in the video! What's a hell???!!!

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Maybe I have problems with Transmission mount or Trans/Engine rear mount?
---------------------------
could be -

3 of the 4 mounts are rubber/hydraulic -
only 1 is a solid mount that can't wear -

this is the reason I suggested to get the car up on a hoist -
and do the brake-torquing -

some things you just can't inspect laying on your back -
 
#96 ·
The motor mounts on my 04 deville with 125k mile are totally worn out. The engine moves like 4 inches when I brake torque. I thought it was the front mount but now seeing your post I will check the rear mount more carefully. I have always found it difficult to determine which mounts are the worst. I will definitely switch to a solid mount hydraulic is not worth the money to me.
I have installed many motor mounts in the last few years, mostly on Japanese cars. I raise the car up on a lift and use one or two tall adjustable jack stands to push or hold the motor to one side or the other. It can really be difficult. The mounts frequently have studs that make removal and installation really difficult. Air tools really help getting those big bolts loose. I would recommend doing all the mounts if you want the motor move only 1 inch or less during the test. If you are enjoying learning how to work on cars then complete the process by doing a few more mounts and actually getting good at it. If you are worried about spending too much money then forget about replacing things like motor mounts, shocks and struts and just live with the vibration, clunks and rattles.
 
#97 ·
Scan, without the torque struts on you year that engine is going to rotate. Why do you think the mount wears so quickly. I can tell you that when one mount wears out the others are prob due for replacement. I also changed only the frt at first but notices alignment problems. Changed all the mounts and everything lined back up. The other mounts didn't look like they were moving and didn't look that bad when removed but they must have been.
I would suggest you find someone to make some Ranger rods for your car(or make yourself) and the engine movement will be 95% gone. Without torques struts on my 98 that engine came up 3 to 4 inches easy(i tested just to see what would happen)