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2008 CTS DI Manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting having the typical chain rattling about 2 weeks ago, then about a day after that started I believe timing became off because started to have really jerky/stuttering acceleration. Been driving still because this is my only way to and from work. Mechanic looked at it recommended an engine replacement which will cost me around 3600$ for a used engine with 183000kms (mine only has 143000) timing chain full replacement will cost me around 2500$. Mechanic said it could’ve bent valves or caused other internal damage but I was under the understanding that the gm ly7 is a non interference engine. I’m just not sure what to do because I’m a teenager and cannot afford to start getting into valve replacements and heavy bottom end work but saving the 1000$ would help me out a ton and I’d get to keep the car with an engine that i know more if it’s history rather than a random junkyard engine that could’ve been maintained like shit.
 

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To the best of my knowledge, the LY7 is not an interference engine, but can still be subject to internal damage if the proper (or better worded "improper") conditions are met.
Options are good and it appears you've put some thought into this repair decision. Good on you for that.

My questions to you are:
Do you trust the mechanic or do you believe he's trying to take the easy way out and make more money?
Does this higher mileage salvage motor come with a warranty?
 

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08 CTS DI
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My questions to you are:
Do you trust the mechanic or do you believe he's trying to take the easy way out and make more money?
I second that question and replacing the chains as opposed to the motor is the easy way out.

I can make no sense of replacing a high mileage motor in need of a timing chain replacement, with a high mileage motor that will need a timing chain replacement "tomorrow" if installed today. We've seen the "replace the motor" that is only in need of a timing chain job recommendation here before. I say get on the phone and shop for a competent service provider that may offer a better price as well. There are some that would prefer to do this job all day everyday, especially on a car that doesn't need to be raised off the ground for it and their proficiency permits them to offer better pricing.

You need to stop driving it unfortunately.
 

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2008 CTS DI Manual
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To the best of my knowledge, the LY7 is not an interference engine, but can still be subject to internal damage if the proper (or better worded "improper") conditions are met.
Options are good and it appears you've put some thought into this repair decision. Good on you for that.

My questions to you are:
Do you trust the mechanic or do you believe he's trying to take the easy way out and make more money?
Does this higher mileage salvage motor come with a warranty?
I trust my mechanic bc he’s one of the guys at the dealership I work at, but I’m just unsure of his experience with specific problems of our cars because dealership thinking would be just go the easiest option cost doesn’t matter. I also work at a Nissan dealership but the tech working on my car worked at gm back in the 90s for a number of years. I’m going ahead with the timing chain today, doing internal checks along the way. This is all caused because it was burning a lot of oil bc rich running for other reasons so it ran dry for a few days and the hydraulic chain tensioners had no oil pressure so it was loose and is now mistimed.
 

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08 CTS DI
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This is all caused because it was burning a lot of oil bc rich running for other reasons so it ran dry for a few days and the hydraulic chain tensioners had no oil pressure so it was loose and is now mistimed.
On some occasions a member may get upset/frustrated with the follow-up questions that are asked before a flow of solutions begins in earnest. Your above statement is why it's important to dig a little deeper. That is crucial information that was omitted from the initial post, that puts the mechanics reasoning in proper context now, following being thrown under the "bus". It appears you ran the motor nearly out of oil and definitely far too low. I agree with the mechanics first impression on this, replace the motor, especially if any metal is visible on the oil filter as these motors often do not fair well following an incident like that.
 

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2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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On some occasions a member may get upset/frustrated with the follow-up questions that are asked before a flow of solutions begins in earnest. Your above statement is why it's important to dig a little deeper. That is crucial information that was omitted from the initial post, that puts the mechanics reasoning in proper context now, following being thrown under the "bus". It appears you ran the motor nearly out of oil and definitely far too low. I agree with the mechanics first impression on this, replace the motor, especially if any metal is visible on the oil filter as these motors often do not fair well following an incident like that.
"Fare," not "fair."
 

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2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150
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Too bad you weren't a member when our resident Grammar/Semantics/Spelling/Apostrophe/Acronym Police officer was an active member. RightTurn would have set the matter straight immediately.
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI Premium, 2014 CTS VSport
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The difference between a worn timing chain and jumped time after run low on oil is significant, and wasn't mentioned in your first post. The former a timing chain job makes sense, the latter, a replacement engine.

But you know what? You should replace the timing chain on your new-used engine before installing it. You get to do both. Don't run your engine low on oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The difference between a worn timing chain and jumped time after run low on oil is significant, and wasn't mentioned in your first post. The former a timing chain job makes sense, the latter, a replacement engine.

But you know what? You should replace the timing chain on your new-used engine before installing it. You get to do both. Don't run your engine low on oil.
Will absolutely not be changing the timing chain on the used engine, the whole engine swap will cost me 3600$, if I did the chain it’d be well over 4500$, I paid 5500 for the entire car. What I’ll be doing it new motor and getting rid of it as fast as possible
 

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Will absolutely not be changing the timing chain on the used engine, the whole engine swap will cost me 3600$, if I did the chain it’d be well over 4500$, I paid 5500 for the entire car. What I’ll be doing it new motor and getting rid of it as fast as possible
Blow money on a repair near equal to the value of a car you're not going to keep? How old are you?
 

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2008 CTS DI Manual
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Blow money on a repair near equal to the value of a car you're not going to keep? How old are you?
I’d get a lot more money out of it if it was running and I’m 19 not sure how that makes a difference. I’d get around 8 grand out here for my car due to it legitimately being one of two manual cts in the country it’s got the demand. I’d get maybe 1-2 grand in this condition
 

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2014 ELR
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Yet one more example of why many people should choose electric cars. Cars with engines aren't cell phones, they require maintenance, and you NEED TO CHECK THE OIL.

And yes, if you are swapping in a used engine, you should certainly do a timing set on it. You work at the dealership, you know the tech, offer to help him after hours, pay him cash, get your own parts, do whatever you need to to keep the cost low.
 

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Will absolutely not be changing the timing chain on the used engine, the whole engine swap will cost me 3600$, if I did the chain it’d be well over 4500$, I paid 5500 for the entire car. What I’ll be doing it new motor and getting rid of it as fast as possible
Perhaps at this point you should just sell the car as is, take your $3600 and buy, or finance something that amounts to a better investment. If you're starting with a low mileage used motor you can get away without replacing the chains and it shouldn't cost too awful much labor wise to stand the motor on end and take the timing cover off to replace the timing components, as opposed to doing it while it's installed. If you're not going to keep it, I believe it would be better to let it go as is under the current circumstances.
 

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I could have been a real ass and pointed out that the odds of there being any metal "on" the oil filter (meaning attached to the exterior of it) as opposed to "in" the oil filter approach zero, regardless of the internal condition of the engine.
You still managed to achieve your goal. Congratulations.

Splitting "hairs", not "hares". - Hasenpfeffer ?
I'm gonna let that stew for a while.
 

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Must be something in the air today, eh?
 
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