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ajohnson57 said:
Star-Nice to see responses to inquiries. Too little of it if you are waiting for help. My son just repaired my 97. Blew the TB. All the intake valves were bent or suspect. NONE of the pistons were damanged. I'd double check if the engine is down to verify piston condition. At to the special tool. My son has concluded that if you ARE replacing the belt as a service action then the special tool will make the job easier. If the belt is BROKEN then it makes no sense to purchase the tool as all the componets have been rotated out of secquence. The shop tech manual (Available for around $85.00 on internet) gives clear specific instructions as to position of the cams and crank. As well the new belt will have the location points embossed on the inside for correct placement. Rotate the engine once after placing the belt on to assure that you are in correct placement mode.
We purchased all the parts required except the head gaskets, from Really good personal service and really reasonable prices plus quick delivery. We had to go to Mr. Good Wrench for the head gaskets.
Our only set back was the "Check Engine" lite was on and remains on following the repair. Have taken it to Mr. Good Wrench for dianostic test. We are in discussion as a result of that effort. I think I am in a "Training Mode" with the Good Wrench guy. We shall see. Meanwhile the engine is running fine.
As a new owner I would recommend that you review this total site's postings. For myself, as soon as the "Check Engine" lite is resolved this piece of work is going to be traded in on a Non Interference engined auto. These I/F engines are becoming all to common so I anticipate rolling back in years to find a good used non-interference rig.
Goood luck and I'd suggest changing the belt on any use engine you purchase before sticking it into your rig.

A.Johnson- Ketchikan, Alaska
how much did this cost??
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