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2000 DHS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Purchased a PERFECT running 2014 with just over 80,000 miles from copart that was involved in a minor left front side accident. Drove it into the garage, removed the battery and began replacing fender, headlight and such. This took me about a year. Finished, replace the battery with a new one and car will turn over but will not start. Codes show misfire on one or more cylinders, and low voltage on the economy fuel switch. Removed tank and replaced old gas, and still nothing. When it gets back from the dealership I am going to take great pleasure in using a sledge hammer on this car before it goes to the scrap yard. NEVER AGAIN!!
 

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Purchased a PERFECT running 2014 with just over 80,000 miles from copart that was involved in a minor left front side accident. Drove it into the garage, removed the battery and began replacing fender, headlight and such. This took me about a year. Finished, replace the battery with a new one and car will turn over but will not start. Codes show misfire on one or more cylinders, and low voltage on the economy fuel switch. Removed tank and replaced old gas, and still nothing. When it gets back from the dealership I am going to take great pleasure in using a sledge hammer on this car before it goes to the scrap yard. NEVER AGAIN!!
Sorry to hear that, but, I personally believe that any car can be fixed. Sounds like your car may have been a salvage unit.
 

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2009 CTS 2010 SRX
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8 Posts
Reset your ECU and codes with a scanner. Also check impact switches to make sure they are all still hooked up.
 

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2011 SRX4 3.0 Engine
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596 Posts
can i have the liver and the neck ? 👽
 

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2012 SRX4 Premium
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463 Posts
Charge your friends and neighbors $5/swing and you can make your money back. They used to do that with old cars at carnivals when I was a kid. People will line up to beat a car to death with a big hammer.
 

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I did that with my totaled '66 Chevelle and the neighborhood kids. They all took after the glass first. I only charged a dollar, but that was when a buck was worth something.

misfire on one or more cylinders
+ low voltage on the economy fuel switch
When it gets back from the dealership*

* - ???????????????????????????


Well, I sure didn't see that equation coming! Always strange how a couple of simple-to-diagnose codes turns into a dealership getting involved.
 

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'15 SRX Performance
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8 Posts
It is strange for me to have "misfire" code if the engine was not running... Can you post here exact codes that you are receiving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did that with my totaled '66 Chevelle and the neighborhood kids. They all took after the glass first. I only charged a dollar, but that was when a buck was worth something.

misfire on one or more cylinders
+ low voltage on the economy fuel switch
When it gets back from the dealership*

* - ???????????????????????????


Well, I sure didn't see that equation coming! Always strange how a couple of simple-to-diagnose codes turns into a dealership getting involved.
These are the codes, P0300 misfire on one or more cylinders, P159F economy fuel switch low voltage, P12A6 prolonged crank with no start. Shoot me the simple-to-diagnose solution and I will get the car back on the road this evening.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It is strange for me to have "misfire" code if the engine was not running... Can you post here exact codes that you are receiving?
P0300 misfire on one or more cylinders, P159F economy fuel switch low voltage, P12A6 prolonged crank with no start.
 

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These are the codes, P0300 misfire on one or more cylinders, P159F economy fuel switch low voltage, P12A6 prolonged crank with no start. Shoot me the simple-to-diagnose solution and I will get the car back on the road this evening.....
Ha! Good one. Without diving too much into preaching the key is "simple to diagnose". But I've learned long ago (the hard way) the difference between simple and easy. And my point is that most any big car parts dealer can pull the codes free as opposed to a dealership's typical 'state-of-the-art $70 diagnostic command center connection charge', and then their subsequent hostage negotiations at $150+ shop rates when they automatically presume on getting the repair work. So, it's only after getting the codes (with no sunk costs so far) where you become a more educated consumer and can decide whether to hit a shop or DIY. But, unless the car's got a warranty of some sort it's the 'dealership' part that made me flinch as most any mom-n-pops garage can 'simply' deal with those codes on your relatively current design car. Instead of kicking it to the curb so fast, it would sure seem more prudent and certainly more cost effective to invest in a set of factory service manuals that customarily contain all the codes and their straightforward diagnostic procedures and decision trees. Then you decide how 'easy' the fix(es) will be from there. Any one of them codes may take longer than this evening, but damn sure the dealership would take longer than that as well. And if this ain't your driver then you'll have the time to do everything right the first time, and buy all the parts not marked up double over retail.
Parting thoughts: if your motor has a coil for each cyl. then it's likely one or more of those along with their plug needing replacement(s). At least it was for my wife's 20-year old Tribute. It took a Satrday and Sunday at half speed for me to do 2 sets after spending 30 minutes of You-Tubes beforehand. The fuel switch could be going south, or just a connection or ground. And the last code sounds like a perfect example of a result of the first two. Good luck whatever you decide. But the car sure sounds worth keeping with just those kind of issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ha! Good one. Without diving too much into preaching the key is "simple to diagnose". But I've learned long ago (the hard way) the difference between simple and easy. And my point is that most any big car parts dealer can pull the codes free as opposed to a dealership's typical 'state-of-the-art $70 diagnostic command center connection charge', and then their subsequent hostage negotiations at $150+ shop rates when they automatically presume on getting the repair work. So, it's only after getting the codes (with no sunk costs so far) where you become a more educated consumer and can decide whether to hit a shop or DIY. But, unless the car's got a warranty of some sort it's the 'dealership' part that made me flinch as most any mom-n-pops garage can 'simply' deal with those codes on your relatively current design car. Instead of kicking it to the curb so fast, it would sure seem more prudent and certainly more cost effective to invest in a set of factory service manuals that customarily contain all the codes and their straightforward diagnostic procedures and decision trees. Then you decide how 'easy' the fix(es) will be from there. Any one of them codes may take longer than this evening, but damn sure the dealership would take longer than that as well. And if this ain't your driver then you'll have the time to do everything right the first time, and buy all the parts not marked up double over retail.
Parting thoughts: if your motor has a coil for each cyl. then it's likely one or more of those along with their plug needing replacement(s). At least it was for my wife's 20-year old Tribute. It took a Satrday and Sunday at half speed for me to do 2 sets after spending 30 minutes of You-Tubes beforehand. The fuel switch could be going south, or just a connection or ground. And the last code sounds like a perfect example of a result of the first two. Good luck whatever you decide. But the car sure sounds worth keeping with just those kind of issues.
I am so glad you are not offended and seen the humor in my reply. I did first try to figure out the issue myself, no luck. Then tried the local mom and pop garage, was told it was bad gas. They removed the fuel tank, drained and cleaned it $900, did not fix the issue. The took it to the "cadillac guy" private garage about 40 miles east, was told it was a bad fuel pump, $400, plus $300 for a tow over and back. He gave up on it also, no fix. Tried the Chevy dealership here in town and they gave up, no charge. Tried the Cadillac dealership about 40 miles west, they gave up. So I am into the simple to diagnose repair about $2000 so far with no fix. Just so hard to understand how a car can break sitting still.
 

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Easy to diagnose is...
an engine needs fuel, spark and compression. Given those, it has to start, the laws of physics says that it has no choice! If one of those is missing it will not!
Have you verified proper fuel is getting inside the cylinders?

Have you verified spark?

Have you verified compression?
 

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If it won't start try putting the gas pedal all the way to the floor and try starting again. It sometimes works on old and new vehicles. After putting gas in my car twice it wouldn't start because of a stuck purge valve and that's what I did until replacing the valve but be ready to take your foot off very quickly otherwise it will rev to much. Hopefully it helps to get it running so you can diagnose it better.

Good luck, Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Easy to diagnose is...
an engine needs fuel, spark and compression. Given those, it has to start, the laws of physics says that it has no choice! If one of those is missing it will not!
Have you verified proper fuel is getting inside the cylinders?

Have you verified spark?

Have you verified compression?
I love how everyone is saying how easy it is to diagnose. How do I verify spark on a 2014 SRX? How do I verify compression on a srx? How do I verify the proper amount of fuel is getting into the cylinders. This should all be simple with simple garage tools right?
 

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The most important tool nowadays is to have a good scanner. If you don't have one you may know someone that has one you can borrow.

Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If it won't start try putting the gas pedal all the way to the floor and try starting again. It sometimes works on old and new vehicles. After putting gas in my car twice it wouldn't start because of a stuck purge valve and that's what I did until replacing the valve but be ready to take your foot off very quickly otherwise it will rev to much. Hopefully it helps to get it running so you can diagnose it better.

Good luck, Roy
I will try that, thank you
 

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Remove a coil, but keep it connected, lay it close to a ground(on or near the valve cover is good or some other metal engine part that it will reach), crank the engine and have someone watch for sparking.
Check compression, remove the spark plug and use a compression gauge, while the engine is being cranked to test the compression.
If both of those check out, then, the use of starting fluid will verify the presence of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Remove a coil, but keep it connected, lay it close to a ground(on or near the valve cover is good or some other metal engine part that it will reach), crank the engine and have someone watch for sparking.
Check compression, remove the spark plug and use a compression gauge, while the engine is being cranked to test the compression.
If both of those check out, then, the use of starting fluid will verify the presence of fuel.
Remove a coil, but keep it connected, lay it close to a ground(on or near the valve cover is good or some other metal engine part that it will reach), crank the engine and have someone watch for sparking.
Check compression, remove the spark plug and use a compression gauge, while the engine is being cranked to test the compression.
If both of those check out, then, the use of starting fluid will verify the presence of fuel.
Thank you, will test for spark and compression. Starter fluid test did not do anything.
 
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