lets see some pictures! doesnt sound good man, you might be alright if you caught it the day after it rained...
There's a swimming pool in my door
When I opened the driver's side front door last night to get in, the door felt a little heavier than normal, and I could hear water splashing around. I moved the door back and forth and sure enough, sounds like someone's taking a bath inside my door. We've have alot of rain in the past few days. Obviously this can't be good, my door must be rusting like mad from the inside out now. Anyone else ever experience this? I'm gonna take the inside panel off today and see what's in there.
Brian
Brian
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Use something like a coat hanger to clean out the drains on the bottom of the door - the water should pour right out...:thumbsup:
yeah, there are 3 or 4 drains on the bottom... they must be plugged up with leaves or something... not very good.
worst case, could drill a couple extra holes... but there is a reason the water isn't able to drain as is.
worst case, could drill a couple extra holes... but there is a reason the water isn't able to drain as is.
Pipe cleaners work well for cleaning out the holes without scratching the inside of the door.
Actually, my door had the same problem. There were two rather large drain holes that still had rubber plugs in them from the factory. I unplugged those, and later replaced the rubber belt line strip at the base of the window, which is where the water was getting in from. Check yours to make sure it isn't all rotted and such.
THey're not too hard to replace, but they cost about 40 bucks from the dealer.
THey're not too hard to replace, but they cost about 40 bucks from the dealer.
Mine has the same prob. My weather stripping is old and dry rotted. I want to replace it all but can't find the kit for the 4 door brougham/SDV.
Well, one of my drain holes appears to be plugged with caulk of some sort, like Liquid Nails. Another hole was plugged with leaves and dirt and everything, I took a coat hanger and pulled a bunch of shit out, the water drained for a good 5 minutes, and made an enormous puddle under the car. Strangely enough, the drain holes at the front and back of the door didn't release any water at all. Thanks all!
Brian
Brian
Glad to hear it worked out. Coat hangers are one of the best tools. Right up there with duct tape and zip ties:thumbsup:
I would put the window up, then take a can of WD-40 and shove the straw up the holes, and spray down the inside. This will get rid of the moisture, and prevent corrosion. BTW, the "WD" stands for "Water Displacement"...
I would put the window up, then take a can of WD-40 and shove the straw up the holes, and spray down the inside. This will get rid of the moisture, and prevent corrosion. BTW, the "WD" stands for "Water Displacement"...
That's a great idea, I'll do that tomorrow morning!
Brian
Brian
THIS IS WAY I HAVE A SUPPER SIZED GARAGE ! :tisk:
Mmmmm, supper sized.
I have the same problem in my 84 Deville except it rusted through. I actually wanted to ask if anybody knows how to install new weatherstripping
Are we talking the stripping around the door, or the stripping that goes along the window's bottom to seal it while it's up?
The stripping around the door is very simple. You'll need a good scraper of some sort, and maybe even some adhesive solvent. The old stuff can be ripped off with no regard. In my car, the top half of the door had it's stripping held on with adhesive, which can be a pain in the ass to get off, while the bottom half is held in with clips that snap into the door. The stripping you buy should have clips in it already. I got mine from Steele Rubber products. Great value.
When putting the stripping back on it says to use a certain kind of adhesive, but I used regular black silicone, and it's worked fine. Leave the doors open a short time to let the stuff dry if you can. It was pretty easy for me, but I have a sedan, so my doors are smaller. It still shouldn't be too hard, just put aside a lot of time to scrape old adhesive off.
The stripping around the door is very simple. You'll need a good scraper of some sort, and maybe even some adhesive solvent. The old stuff can be ripped off with no regard. In my car, the top half of the door had it's stripping held on with adhesive, which can be a pain in the ass to get off, while the bottom half is held in with clips that snap into the door. The stripping you buy should have clips in it already. I got mine from Steele Rubber products. Great value.
When putting the stripping back on it says to use a certain kind of adhesive, but I used regular black silicone, and it's worked fine. Leave the doors open a short time to let the stuff dry if you can. It was pretty easy for me, but I have a sedan, so my doors are smaller. It still shouldn't be too hard, just put aside a lot of time to scrape old adhesive off.
The weather stripping that seals the window when is up has cracked and just fallen out, that is what i am cofused on how to fix
Oh okay then. I just did that on my car a while ago. It's not TOO hard.
First get the part. The only place you'll have any luck finding the replacement stripping is at a GM dealer parts counter. Mine cost around 36 bucks, yours bay be more because your door is bigger. I think it was officially called a "Beltline Sealing Strip" or something like that.
Make sure you start by putting the window down.
First you need to take off the interior door panel. There are screws hidden all over the place. Two big ones under the pull handle are easy to get. Then you need to take out the light cover and assembly, along with the silver cover that goes over the door opening lever.
Once those are out, you can remove the control panel on the door by taking out two screws from the bottom. It will then snap out of place. The clips are metal, so don't worry about breaking them. After that's out, the two final screws are located behind where the control panel used to be.
That's all the screws, now you just have to remove the studs that hold the panel in place. They go all around the edges. There's a tool for removing them, but it isn't necessary . A hammer claw will work, as will your own hands, but you may end up pulling the studs from the panel and not the door. You can always just pull them out later and put them back in the panel if they're not too beat up. If they are, you can also buy new ones.
Once those are out, you can take the panel off. (make sure you unscrew the lock button at the top first) To take of the panel, apply significant pressure towards the outside of the door at the top middle of the panel, as it is sort of hung on the door itself, so pushing in "un-latches" it. Since your door panel is bigger than mine, I may be overlooking another step or two, but the process should be largely the same.
Once the door panel is off, you can find something to rest it on, or disconnect the wires to the control panel and remove it entirely.
Now comes the part where you may want an extra set of hands. You'll need to take the window off the tracks in order to get at the screws that hold the sealing strip in place. You should be able to see the bolts that hold it. I had two in mine, but You may have more since the coupe window is larger. Take them out and gently lower the window to the bottom of the door.
There, all the hard stuff is done.
The sealing strip itself is only held in with philip head screws. Take it out and put in the new one. Bada bing bada bang bada boom.
When putting everything back, make sure you get the window in the tracks properly. I screwed up the first time and had to go back and fix it. There is a small metal clip on the rear side of the window that has to fit into a track at the back of the door. Make sure that securely slides in from the bottom before you bold the window back in.
Putting everything back on now should be self explanatory. Though, after spelling it all out, it is pretty involved. I'm not sure what a shop would charge you for this, but it may be a good idea if you're worried about breaking the window.
First get the part. The only place you'll have any luck finding the replacement stripping is at a GM dealer parts counter. Mine cost around 36 bucks, yours bay be more because your door is bigger. I think it was officially called a "Beltline Sealing Strip" or something like that.
Make sure you start by putting the window down.
First you need to take off the interior door panel. There are screws hidden all over the place. Two big ones under the pull handle are easy to get. Then you need to take out the light cover and assembly, along with the silver cover that goes over the door opening lever.
Once those are out, you can remove the control panel on the door by taking out two screws from the bottom. It will then snap out of place. The clips are metal, so don't worry about breaking them. After that's out, the two final screws are located behind where the control panel used to be.
That's all the screws, now you just have to remove the studs that hold the panel in place. They go all around the edges. There's a tool for removing them, but it isn't necessary . A hammer claw will work, as will your own hands, but you may end up pulling the studs from the panel and not the door. You can always just pull them out later and put them back in the panel if they're not too beat up. If they are, you can also buy new ones.
Once those are out, you can take the panel off. (make sure you unscrew the lock button at the top first) To take of the panel, apply significant pressure towards the outside of the door at the top middle of the panel, as it is sort of hung on the door itself, so pushing in "un-latches" it. Since your door panel is bigger than mine, I may be overlooking another step or two, but the process should be largely the same.
Once the door panel is off, you can find something to rest it on, or disconnect the wires to the control panel and remove it entirely.
Now comes the part where you may want an extra set of hands. You'll need to take the window off the tracks in order to get at the screws that hold the sealing strip in place. You should be able to see the bolts that hold it. I had two in mine, but You may have more since the coupe window is larger. Take them out and gently lower the window to the bottom of the door.
There, all the hard stuff is done.
The sealing strip itself is only held in with philip head screws. Take it out and put in the new one. Bada bing bada bang bada boom.
When putting everything back, make sure you get the window in the tracks properly. I screwed up the first time and had to go back and fix it. There is a small metal clip on the rear side of the window that has to fit into a track at the back of the door. Make sure that securely slides in from the bottom before you bold the window back in.
Putting everything back on now should be self explanatory. Though, after spelling it all out, it is pretty involved. I'm not sure what a shop would charge you for this, but it may be a good idea if you're worried about breaking the window.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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