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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone
Figured that since alot of people seem to be having IAC valve problems, and I have rebuilt mine and found it easy enough, I thought I'd take it back off my car and take pics and write up a tutorial for you guys. Maybe if this thread could get pinned up at the top and maybe in the V6 engine section as well, might save alot of people some money. new IAC valves are expensive. If your car is having trouble staying running at idle or low RPM's, this is probably your problem.
Thanks,
-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #2
REMOVING THE IAC VALVE FROM YOUR ENGINE
What you need:​
  • Star shaped wrench (T30 or something. Forget exactly what size)​
  • Pair of pliers​
  • Flathead screwdriver​
  • Some paper towells​
  • Q-tips​
  • (Optional) A can of carburator cleaner (Engine degreaser is too strong)​
Time to complete: 15-30 minutes if you dont run in to many problems​
Dificulty: Easy/Moderate​
STEP 1: Remove the IAC valve from your engine
  1. Open your hood. Look on the drivers side of the intake manifold for the IAC valve itself. Wipe off any dirt or grime from around it.​
  2. Remove yellow 'OIL' cap. Makes it easier to reach the bolts holding it on.​
  3. Disconnect the brown wire that is attached to the IAC valve​
  4. Using the wrench, loosen and remove the two bolts holding the IAC valve to the manifold. Don't drop them or the IAC valve when you take them off.​
  5. Tape off the holes in the side of the manifold. Masking tape should work (unless, like me, you have a mouse living in your engine that might be tempted to chew away at the tape. In that case, use something stronger)​
  6. Take your tools and the IAC valve, close the hood, and go inside (or to your garage)​
  7. Once you get to a table to work at, put a few paper towells down, get all your supplies, and pull up a chair (or bench) For the next 30 minutes, thats where you'll be. Don't worry, no need for electricity. You don't have to be near an outlet.​
  8. Clean off the exterior of the IAC valve. Makes it easier to work with.​
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TAKING YOUR IAC VALVE APART
I guess now would be the best time for me to take care of any legal-schmegal stuff I guess I should. I trust everyone here and I hope that everyone knows that anything they do to their car is their fault, not mine. I'm sorry if anything happens that shouldn't, but I cannot be held responsible for you breaking anything or damaging anything. With that out of the way, lets continue​
TAKE THE TWO PARTS OF THE IAC VALVE APART
  1. Locate the brass tube-like thing that holds the two halfs together. It is marked in the picture below. You MAY have to use your flathead screwdriver to gentily pry the tab up and over the metal pin thingy, but then you should be able to remove it with the plyers. You can see where I used the screwdriver to pry the tabs up and then twist it over.​
  2. Once you have the metal pin out of the way, twist the two halfs apart. It only goes one way (I'm pretty sure), so just go whatever way is easiest. You'll spin it around about a full turn.​
  3. Pull the two pieces apart. The IAC valve IS magnetic, so it may seem a little hard to pull apart, but dont worry. There are NO wires that you have to worry about breaking.​
  4. You will also notice a funny shaped washer. No, it was not distroyed while in your car, nor is it the problem your IAC valve isnt working. It just looks funny and thats all their is to it. Put this aside for now.​
Thats all the disassembally you have to worry about for this project. Take a minute to stretch, although by now, whats it been....5, maybe 10 minutes?​
 

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Discussion Starter #4
CLEANING YOUR VALVE
Ok, you've got it apart. Now what. Grab that can of carb cleaner, or that bottle of rubbing alcohol (That should work too....), a few q-tips, a paper towell or two, and start cleaning! Not too much to say here...just clean everything you want to/can. The cleaner the better. You might want to/should spray a little WD-40 on the internal pieces, to keep things from sticking up. From there, you pretty much just put everything back together and put it back on the car. Should take care of your idle problems. Hope this helped, I sure wish there was some information on the IAC valve when I was rebuilding mine! took me forever to realize I had that pin to take out!​
Thanks for reading, and make sure to put the funny washer thing back in. I forgot to the first time and had to take it apart again to put it back. Not the end of the world, just scared me when i tried to start the car and it wouldnt do anything!​
-Chris​
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just to add, if your gasket broke or fell down somewhere, you can just use some thick paper or some construction paper to make another one. Takes some time to trace it and cut it out, but works just as good.
 

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Unfornately, the 99's are designed differently. As we had discussed via email last night, I still haven't found the IAC on my car yet. Even the factory service manuals donot reference such a valve for my car. Mine is still sitting in the garage. Wife doesn't trust it for me to drive to work and get stuck again. :madtalkin :banghead:
 

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yep...I've gotta run now (Gotta get to class...lunch is over :-( ) but when I get home i've actually got a google search for the 99 catera engine up and open on my computer....tried to find it this morning but didnt have time. Hope everything else isnt different, LOL
 

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aHHH IM having a ton of trouble pulling that little pin thingy out.ive already broken half the plastic round it...any help..any 1!!??
 

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Thanks for the tips on the IAC valve. Just took mine out and have a suggestion and comment.

Suggestion - to get the brass tube out to disassemble I just took a 6-32 tap and threaded it into the tube part way. Once locked in, grab the tap with pliers and pull the tub out. Pretty simple. I a trying to attach a photo so hopefully it works.

Comment - that spring washer is a little tricky to get back in. It will not simply lay there as the core is magnetized so it keeps popping up and out of place. It took quite a few attempts to finally get it to line up right so the valve could be twisted together. No trick that I came up with, just dumb luck finally.

Lastly, I am not positive the valve needs to come apart in the first place. The area accessible by taking it apart really was not dirty in my case. The dirty part was in the ports where the rotating slide is. I think just TB cleaner and carefully moving the slide around with say a toothpick would be sufficient. That is just a guess on my part though.
 

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Hmm for the gasket im kind of thinking about using some high temp rtv. Im getting tired of dicking with making a gasket so im thinking a good fay seal on both the IAC and the plenum and it should seal up pretty good. And if not at least it will be easy to get to.
 

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THANK YOU SO MUCH Speedingpenguin
I JUST RAN INTO THIS PROBLEM, THE PART FOR MY 97 CATERA IS ANYWHERE FROM $380 TO $800, DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU FIND IT. I TO BROKE ALL THE PLASTIC TAKING THIS APART. I'M GOING TO USE SOME RHINO GLUE ON IT AND HOPE FOR THE BEST.

I REMEMBER THE 1ST TIME LOOKING AT THIS PART, THE METAL PIN HAD ME THINKING THAT THIS COMES APART, BUT I HAD NO CLUE.

ONCE AGAIN THANKS Speedingpenguin :D
 

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My 98 developed a rough idle last night , kinda was chugging on take off , as if it was only running on 4 cyl. It even vibrated on acceliration. I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and the IAC. I didnt tear apart the IAC, I used q tips and seafoam, and just cleaned what I could, used a tiny screwdrier to hold it open. Put it back on(mine doesnt have a gasket) and it runs like a top again for now.
 

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I gave it a shot after my 97 Catera started to idle really rough at only 60K miles. Sadly the IAC was still pretty clean and it still idles like before. Any other ideas as to what it could be?
 

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Just found this! THIS is so cool!. I am going to do this this weekend. NOW, just in case, I found a nice little IAC on ebay for 35.00. Just in case I trash my current one. Thanks man! NICE pics! Good job!
 

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Ok..THIS works! I cleaned out all the gunk and now my caddy is smooth as silk with no more rough idle! What an EASY fix! Just one thing. I used a small angled pick and the pin slid/pryed right out in a few seconds without issue. Whole job done in 20 minutes! I used break cleaner. man, so easy!
 
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